The Costume Institute, often celebrated as The Fashion Gallery within The Metropolitan Museum of Art, began its remarkable journey in 1937. Initially established as the Museum of Costume Art by Irene Lewisohn, founder of the Neighborhood Playhouse, it operated independently. A pivotal moment arrived in 1946 when, fueled by the financial backing of the fashion industry, it merged with The Met, officially becoming The Costume Institute. By 1959, it solidified its place within the museum as a dedicated curatorial department. The visionary Diana Vreeland, serving as special consultant from 1972 until 1989, left an indelible mark on the fashion gallery. Her curated exhibitions, including the iconic “The World of Balenciaga” (1973) and “The Glory of Russian Costume” (1976), not only captivated audiences but also redefined the landscape of costume exhibitions on a global scale, establishing the fashion gallery as a leading cultural destination.
In 1989, Richard Martin, supported by Harold Koda, took the reins, ushering in an era of thematic exhibitions within the fashion gallery. Their innovative approach included rotating cycles of exhibitions like “Infra-Apparel,” “Waist Not,” “The Four Seasons,” and “Cubism and Fashion,” pushing the boundaries of fashion curation. Martin’s impactful tenure culminated with “Rock Style” in 1999, his final exhibition. Koda, who had briefly left, returned to The Met in 2000 as curator in charge, and in 2002, brought Andrew Bolton on board. Upon Koda’s retirement in 2016, Bolton assumed the role of curator in charge, continuing to elevate the fashion gallery’s prominence in the art world.
Premier Exhibitions at the Fashion Gallery
The fashion gallery is renowned for hosting one or two major special exhibitions annually, each a significant event in the fashion and art calendar. Monographic exhibitions have shone a spotlight on legendary designers, offering in-depth explorations of their careers and creative visions. Past highlights include “Chanel” (2005), “Poiret: King of Fashion” (2007), “Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty” (2011), “Charles James: Beyond Fashion” (2014), and “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between” (2017). These exhibitions transform the fashion gallery into immersive spaces dedicated to celebrating fashion icons.
Thematic exhibitions further define the fashion gallery’s curatorial excellence. Exhibitions such as “AngloMania: Tradition and Transgression in British Fashion” (2006), “Superheroes: Fashion and Fantasy” (2008), “The Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion” (2009), “American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity” (2010), and “China: Through the Looking Glass” (2015) have explored diverse and culturally relevant themes. Notably, “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” (2018) became The Met’s most visited exhibition, drawing over 1.65 million visitors and underscoring the fashion gallery’s broad appeal and cultural impact. Other highly attended exhibitions include “Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty,” “China: Through the Looking Glass,” “Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology,” and “Camp: Notes on Fashion,” all curated by Andrew Bolton, solidifying the fashion gallery’s reputation for blockbuster exhibitions.
The Unrivaled Collection of the Fashion Gallery
Beyond its celebrated exhibitions, the fashion gallery is home to the world’s largest and most comprehensive costume collection. In 2009, the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection, including the definitive Charles James archive and premier holdings of American fashion from the late 19th to mid-20th century, was transferred to The Costume Institute. This merger created an unparalleled resource, offering an extensive timeline of Western fashion history within the fashion gallery. The collection continues to expand through the generosity of collectors, designers, and public donations, ensuring the fashion gallery remains a vital center for fashion preservation and study.
Supporting the Fashion Gallery: The Benefit and Friends
The Costume Institute Benefit, famously known as The Met Gala, serves as the primary source of annual funding for the fashion gallery’s exhibitions, acquisitions, and essential improvements. This prestigious event, held each May, marks the opening of the spring exhibition and has become a global spectacle. Under the leadership of Anna Wintour, co-chair since 1995, the gala attracts luminaries from fashion, film, society, and business, solidifying its status as a premier charity event. Originally conceived by Eleanor Lambert in 1948, the benefit plays a crucial role in sustaining the fashion gallery’s operations and ensuring its continued excellence.
The Friends of The Costume Institute, established in 2002, further supports the fashion gallery’s mission. This dedicated group contributes to exhibitions, acquisitions, conservation efforts, and publications, promoting a deeper appreciation of fashion as both an art form and a serious academic field. Through their support, the Friends group plays a vital role in advancing the fashion gallery’s educational and cultural initiatives, ensuring its continued leadership in the world of fashion and art.
