The first decade of the 20th century saw women’s fashion largely mirroring the styles of the late Victorian era. The iconic Gibson Girl silhouette, with its cinched waist and voluminous bust, remained the dominant trend in 1900s women’s fashion. While the seeds of change were sown towards the end of the decade, the early 1900s were characterized by modest dresses, corseted figures, and elaborate ornamentation.
The S-Bend Silhouette and Corsetry
A defining feature of 1900 women’s fashion was the “S-bend” silhouette, achieved through a new type of “health” corset. Unlike earlier corsets, this design pushed the bust forward and the hips backward, aiming to alleviate pressure on the abdomen. This posture created an exaggerated curve, emphasizing a small waist and a prominent bust, as seen in fashion illustrations of the time (Fig. 3) and a House of Worth dinner dress from the early 1900s (Fig. 4). Loose, blousy tops (Fig. 5) further accentuated this top-heavy silhouette, often paired with dramatic sleeves and petticoats designed with full backs and flat fronts.
Modesty and Opulence in Daywear
Day dresses in the 1900s adhered to a standard of modesty, typically covering the body from neck to floor with long sleeves. Bell-shaped skirts were prevalent, often adorned with lace, a popular embellishment of the era. For those less affluent, Irish crochet provided a more affordable alternative. Luxurious fabrics like silk satin and chiffon were favored, typically in light colors, and embellished with lace, rhinestones, and spangles. These details often highlighted specific parts of the body or face, adding a touch of opulence to even everyday attire. This lavish ornamentation extended to daywear, blurring the lines between casual and formal attire, as seen in the intricate bodice of an afternoon dress by Jeanne Paquin (Fig. 2).
The Ideal of Feminine Grace
Overall, 1900s women’s fashion projected an image of mature sophistication and grace. The prevailing aesthetic favored a refined and elegant look, embodied by the flowing lines of a cream silk gown by the House of Worth (Fig. 1). While the decade retained many elements of Victorian fashion, it also laid the groundwork for the transformative changes that would define women’s style in the years to come. The emphasis on the S-bend silhouette, the use of luxurious fabrics and embellishments, and the adherence to modesty all contributed to the unique character of 1900 women’s fashion.
