Glenn Martens, creative director at Diesel, has orchestrated a remarkable turnaround for the brand, focusing on innovative design and sustainable practices. OTB, Diesel’s parent company, saw a 12 percent sales surge to €1.8 billion in 2023, largely attributed to Diesel’s revitalization, strong direct-to-consumer performance, and robust revenues from other OTB brands like Marni and Jil Sander. Martens’ approach has resonated with consumers, generating significant excitement and rapid growth in just five shows. He acknowledges the lack of a predetermined roadmap, highlighting the organic evolution of the brand’s transformation.
Before Martens’ arrival, Diesel faced an existential crisis, needing a refresh to remain relevant in the modern fashion landscape. Martens addressed this by defining Diesel’s identity through a comprehensive brand bible, aiming to attract younger audiences and inspire them with desirable yet unexpected products. This involved understanding Milan’s expectations for craftsmanship and design while creating exciting, fashion-forward clothing accessible to a broader audience.
Diesel’s design process prioritizes innovation and transformation. Instead of relying on expensive materials like leather or silk, the brand starts with affordable fabrics like cotton or jersey. These are then subjected to intricate treatments such as acid washing, varnishing, or shredding, elevating them into unique, high-fashion pieces. This ingenuity allows Diesel to offer creative and stylish clothing without the luxury price tag. This collection exemplifies transparency, with techniques like acid-treated puffer jackets revealing inner padding and shredded floral dresses showcasing glimpses of leg.
Martens also spearheaded a sustainability manifesto, significantly reducing the use of raw materials. Diesel’s denim now comprises 50 percent organic cotton or recycled materials, a substantial increase from the previous 5 percent. While show pieces haven’t yet reached this sustainability benchmark due to their limited production, the focus remains on core items like T-shirts and denim, which constitute the majority of sales. This strategic approach allows Diesel to balance its high-fashion presence with a commitment to responsible production. Martens recognizes the importance of runway shows in establishing Diesel’s creative authority, but emphasizes that the brand’s core strength lies in its accessible and sustainable everyday essentials.
