The 1920s witnessed a dramatic shift in women’s fashion, reflecting the societal changes of the era. The decade’s most iconic image is undoubtedly the flapper: a young woman with a bobbed haircut, a shapeless, dropped-waist dress that fell just below the knee, and a devil-may-care attitude. This androgynous look, which allowed for greater freedom of movement, symbolized the newfound independence and liberation of women.
However, the flapper style wasn’t the only trend shaping women’s fashion in the 1920s. Designer Jeanne Lanvin championed a contrasting aesthetic, creating romantic and feminine gowns with long, full skirts, often featuring panniers. These “Robe de Style” dresses harkened back to earlier eras, emphasizing elegance and traditional femininity.
Lanvin also designed softer, pastel-colored dresses, accessorized with wide-brimmed hats that differed significantly from the close-fitting cloche hats favored by flappers. This alternative style provided women with choices that reflected their personal preferences and challenged the dominance of the single flapper silhouette. Lanvin’s designs offered a feminine counterpoint to the boyish flapper look, demonstrating the diversity within 1920s women’s fashion.
While some designers adapted the looser silhouette with feminine details, the contrast between Lanvin’s creations and the flapper style highlighted the breadth of fashion choices available to women during this period. The decade saw a dynamic interplay between contrasting styles, reflecting the complexities of women’s lives and aspirations.
Another significant trend in 1920s women’s fashion was the rise of sportswear as daywear. Previously confined to men’s casual attire, sportswear gained acceptance for women thanks to designers like Coco Chanel, Jane Regny, and Jean Patou. This trend mirrored the increasing participation of women in sports and outdoor activities.
Tennis, the most popular sport for women at the time, heavily influenced fashion. Jean Patou’s designs, including a yellow skirt and sweater set, showcased the direct influence of tennis attire on everyday clothing. This practical and comfortable style resonated with the active, modern woman.
Tennis star Suzanne Lenglen, a fashion icon of the early 1920s, further popularized the sportswear trend. Her signature short-sleeved, pleated tennis dress and bandeau, designed by Patou, were widely emulated. Lenglen’s influence extended beyond the tennis court, as her personal style inspired women to embrace sporty elements in their everyday wardrobes.
Lenglen’s fashionable attire, both on and off the court, contributed to the mainstreaming of sportswear as acceptable daywear for women. The adoption of sporty garments by a prominent athlete legitimized their presence in everyday fashion.
By the late 1920s, sleeveless, knee-length tennis dresses became widely fashionable, reflecting the enduring impact of sportswear on women’s clothing. The increasing acceptance of sportswear for women blurred the lines between athletic attire and everyday fashion, paving the way for future trends in casual wear. Sportswear became so pervasive that it was deemed appropriate even for lunch at fashionable restaurants, solidifying its place in women’s wardrobes.
