Last week, one of my photographs achieved viral status. National Geographic featured an image from New York Fashion Week on their Instagram feed, which sparked a significant reaction across social media. Over the following days, numerous influencers, celebrities, and models, including Emily Ratajkowski, shared the image, leading to a surge of thousands of comments, direct messages, emails, and 35,000 new followers on Instagram.
The photograph originated backstage at a Jason Wu show, captured while I was working on an assignment for T Magazine. However, it was ultimately not selected for publication. T Magazine opted for a different photograph that presented a more refined and less chaotic view of the backstage atmosphere. It wasn’t surprising, considering that a publication focused on style would likely aim to maintain a positive image and avoid alienating the fashion industry. Having photographed Fashion Week for various publications since 2012, I’ve come to understand that the prevailing approach is to celebrate fashion rather than critique it. Consequently, the often intense and frenetic reality of backstage is typically softened into an idealized representation. Many of the images that didn’t align with the polished image preferred by publications became part of my personal, ongoing project, Fashion Lust.
Backstage womens fashion image at New York Fashion Week showing a model being dressed for the Jason Wu show. Authentic behind-the-scenes moment capturing the reality of high fashion preparation.
The majority of responses to the viral image expressed sympathy for the model depicted. However, some defended the fashion industry, suggesting that the photograph was either fabricated or an anomaly that misrepresented the typical backstage environment. Both of these assertions are demonstrably false. Across more than twelve seasons of Fashion Week, I have repeatedly witnessed and photographed scenes similar to this. Ultimately, the image of yellow satin shoes being fitted onto weary feet became the definitive representation of a long-term observation.