Trickle-down fashion suggests trends begin with high society and descend to the masses. These trends debut at premium prices, accessible initially only to the wealthy. As novelty fades and prices decrease, they become attainable for the general public. Simultaneously, the elite adopt new trends, perpetuating a cycle where fashion flows from the upper echelons to broader society.
In “The Devil Wears Prada,” Miranda Priestly exemplifies the trickle-down dynamic, using cerulean blue to illustrate the fashion industry’s workings. She haughtily recounts, “In 2002, Oscar de la Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns. And then I think it was Yves Saint Laurent… wasn’t it who showed cerulean military jackets? ….. And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of eight different designers. And then it, uh, filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic Casual Corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin.” This narrative implies that fashion direction is dictated by a select few at the top.
However, is mass fashion always dictated by elite insiders? The answer is no, and the concept of trickle-up fashion demonstrates why.
The Rise of Trickle Up Fashion Trends
Trickle-up fashion, in contrast, originates from grassroots movements and ascends from lower economic groups to influence high fashion. Jeans are a quintessential example of trickle-up fashion. Initially practical wear for miners, factory workers, and farmers, jeans gradually gained wider acceptance. By the 1970s, jeans had trickled up to become a staple of casual wear across America and globally, demonstrating the power of everyday style to influence mainstream fashion. Similarly, the t-shirt, once confined to laborers, evolved into an essential wardrobe item due to its comfort and versatility.
Exclusivity vs. Inclusivity in Fashion Trends
Trickle-down fashion thrives on exclusivity. A trend loses its appeal the moment it becomes widely adopted, particularly by the masses. This model establishes a hierarchy where the fashion elite differentiate themselves from the general public. In trickle-down dynamics, upper classes maintain their status by acting as fashion innovators, while the masses are relegated to the role of followers, reinforcing a system of fashion elitism.
Conversely, trickle-up trends emerge from inclusive cultural exchanges and collective identity. While trickle-down fashion can be intolerant of mass adoption, trickle-up fashion is inherently accepting and celebrates diverse origins. Trickle-up fashion represents freedom from the constraints of trickle-down elitism, finding strength in inclusivity. In a world often obsessed with standing out, celebrating unity can be the most radical act of individuality. Historically, trickle-up movements like Punk, Hippie, and various cultural self-respect movements have introduced groundbreaking ideas that were individualistic, rebellious, liberating, experimental, and challenged traditional norms, showcasing the power of grassroots innovation in fashion and beyond.
Trickle Across Fashion in the Digital Age
Mass production and widespread communication have democratized fashion to a significant extent. The rise of street style and fashion influencers has given credence to the trickle-across fashion theory. This theory suggests that fashion trends can spread horizontally across different social strata simultaneously, rather than just vertically from top-down or bottom-up. In the contemporary communication landscape, visibility through media like movies, pop culture, and magazines is crucial for a style to gain traction and become a trend.
However, despite the democratization promised by digital platforms, genuine inclusivity is still lacking in the power structures that control the fashion industry. Inspirations often remain largely elitist, urban-centric, and Western-dominated, or reflecting similar power dynamics in other cultural contexts. Attempts by non-diverse teams to draw trickle-up inspiration can frequently result in cultural appropriation and the theft of styles without proper representation or acknowledgement of the originating communities. This highlights the ongoing tension between genuine grassroots fashion influence and the industry’s persistent hierarchical and often non-inclusive practices.
