The 1920s, often called the Roaring Twenties, was a decade of unprecedented social, artistic, and cultural dynamism, and fashion played a pivotal role in reflecting and propelling this exciting era. It was a time when traditional norms were challenged, and women’s fashion underwent a dramatic transformation. The iconic bobbed hair, popularized by figures like Bernice, signaled a departure from long, traditional hairstyles. The rise of sportswear, fueled by stars like French tennis sensation Suzanne Lenglen, brought a new sense of freedom and practicality to women’s wardrobes. The sleek lines of Art Deco permeated fashion, influencing silhouettes and embellishments. And, of course, Coco Chanel’s revolutionary Little Black Dress offered women an effortlessly chic and versatile garment, so impactful that Vogue likened it to Ford’s Model T, a staple for the modern age.
Vogue magazine, through the artistry of illustrators like Georges Lepape, Benito, and William Bolin, captured the essence of the decade’s style on its covers. These illustrations, echoing the linear aesthetics that would soon define architectural marvels like the Chrysler Building, were instrumental in amplifying the Art Deco craze. Fashion in the 1920s was characterized by distinct elements: cloche hats that snugly framed the face, tubular silhouettes that de-emphasized the waist, drop waists that elongated the torso, and handkerchief hemlines that daringly revealed the shins – a previously unseen expanse of leg.
Among the groundbreaking women’s trends of the 1920s, the “tomboy look,” or La Garçonne, stood out. While not fully embracing menswear – that significant shift would come later with icons like Saint Laurent – the 1920s woman adopted a boyish charm. The La Garçonne style, a clever play on the French word for “boy,” aimed to liberate the female form from restrictive garments. Silhouettes were designed to drape loosely over curves, rejecting corsets and figure-hugging styles. This look also championed shorter hemlines, a style previously reserved for young girls.
The fashion house of Premet became a notable proponent of this aesthetic. In a 1924 Vogue interview, Premet’s Charlotte Révyl commented on the delicate balance of gender expression in the La Garçonne look, stating, “Nowadays, with cut hair, tiny hats pulled down over the eyes, bateau necks or other little collars, long sleeves, and boyish figures, we have absolutely nothing feminine left, unless we see the pretty slender ankles.” This observation perfectly encapsulates the playful androgyny that defined a significant aspect of Roaring Twenties Fashion.
