The Regency era (1811-1820) was a period of dramatic change in men’s fashion. Gone were the extravagant styles of the previous century, replaced by a more refined and tailored look. This guide explores the key elements of Regency men’s fashion, from undergarments to outerwear and accessories, offering a glimpse into the sartorial elegance of the time.
Regency Era Men
Understanding Regency Era Dress Codes
Before delving into the specifics of clothing, it’s important to understand the three primary dress codes of the era:
- Undress: This informal style allowed for the removal of a gentleman’s jacket and cravat, typically within the confines of his home or in a relaxed setting. Dressing gowns and robes were also considered undress.
- Half Dress: A step up from undress, half dress involved less elaborate cravat knots and more casual clothing styles. Think of it as the business casual of the Regency Era.
- Full Dress/Evening Dress: Equivalent to today’s black tie, full dress was required for formal occasions and evening events. At Almack’s Assembly Rooms, the pinnacle of London society, breeches were mandatory even as trousers gained popularity elsewhere.
The Building Blocks of a Regency Gentleman’s Wardrobe
Underclothes: The Foundation of Style
- Small Clothes/Smalls/Drawers: These short or long undergarments provided a base layer for the rest of the ensemble. They were similar to modern boxers or long johns.
- Stockings and Garters: Calf-high stockings, usually made of cotton or silk, were held up by garters.
Upper Body Garments: Tailored Elegance
- Shirts: White muslin shirts, pulled on over the head, featured high collars that reached the chin when starched. Ruffles at the neck and sleeves were optional.
- Waistcoat: Similar to a modern vest, the waistcoat had a high collar and could be single or double-breasted. Pronounced “wes-kit,” it was a crucial element of the layered look.
- Tailcoat/Jacket/Coat: The iconic tailcoat, with its distinctive “M” shaped tails, defined the Regency silhouette. It could be single or double-breasted. Note that in the image above, the gentleman on the right is wearing a more casual style of coat.
Lower Body Garments: From Breeches to Trousers
- Breeches: Knee-length pants worn with stockings, breeches were considered old-fashioned but remained a requirement at Almack’s. They featured a front flap called a “fall,” fastened with an elaborate series of buttons.
- Trousers: Initially favored by the working class, trousers gained acceptance among the upper classes around 1807. Held up by braces (suspenders), they offered a more modern alternative to breeches.
- Pantaloons: Tight-fitting, calf-length or longer pants, pantaloons were often worn with highly polished boots.
- Inexpressibles: These extremely tight leggings left little to the imagination.
- Buckskins: Made from deerskin, buckskins were the durable and comfortable equivalent of modern jeans.
Outerwear: Protection and Style
- Great Coat: A long, often flamboyant overcoat, sometimes with capes, provided warmth and protection from the elements. The image at the top of this article showcases two gentlemen in great coats, one with an elaborate cape and one simpler.
Footwear: Completing the Ensemble
- Shoes: Leather shoes were worn for informal occasions and evening events.
- Boots: Hessian boots were acceptable for daytime wear, while top boots were another popular choice. Boots were generally not worn for evening events.
Accessories: The Mark of a Gentleman
- Cravat/Stock: A long rectangular piece of cloth tied in intricate knots around the neck, the cravat was a central element of Regency men’s fashion. Popularized by Beau Brummel, it became a symbol of elegance and sophistication.
- Gloves, Canes, Pocket Watches, Watch Fobs, Quizzing Glasses: These accessories were not only functional but also served as indicators of wealth and status.
- Wallets or Purses: Leather or fabric pouches held money and other small essentials.
- Hats: Toppers (top hats) and beaver hats were the most common headwear choices.
Regency Men’s Fashion: A Legacy of Elegance
Regency men’s fashion emphasized clean lines, tailored fits, and subtle elegance. This era marked a significant shift in menswear, laying the foundation for many styles that continue to influence fashion today. The attention to detail, the emphasis on quality fabrics, and the artful use of accessories created a look that was both refined and masculine.
