The 1790s marked a dramatic shift in women’s fashion, paving the way for the iconic Regency era styles. This decade saw a transition from the elaborate Rococo silhouettes to simpler, more natural looks heavily influenced by Classical Greek and Roman aesthetics. This guide explores the key elements of the “New Fashion Ladies Suit” of the 1790s, including dresses, undergarments, hairstyles, and accessories.
The Rise of the Chemise Gown: A New Fashion Icon
The French Revolution acted as a catalyst for change, prompting a departure from French fashion trends. One of the most significant developments was the rise of the chemise gown, also known as the round gown or robe en chemise. This simple, high-waisted dress, often made of white cotton or muslin, became incredibly popular for both day and evening wear.
Marie Antoinette by Elisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, 1783. This early depiction of the chemise gown foreshadowed its widespread popularity.
Initially worn as informal attire, the chemise gown gained acceptance through influential figures like Marie Antoinette and Lady Hamilton. Its popularity was further fueled by a desire for simpler, more practical clothing that reflected a rejection of French extravagance.
The Open Robe: Layering for Versatility
While the chemise gown could be worn on its own, it was often paired with an open robe, a loose-fitting overdress that provided warmth and added visual interest. Open robes featured varying sleeve lengths, from long and fitted for daytime to sleeveless for evening.
Open Robe with Round Gown from Festive Attyre. The open robe offered versatility, allowing for different looks by changing the underdress or adding accessories.
Open Robe with Petticoat, 1790, from The Met. In the early 1790s, open robes were often worn over petticoats.
Undergarments: Shifting Foundations
The shift, a simple linen underdress, was a staple of women’s underwear. Stays, a form of supportive bodice, were also common, providing structure and shaping the bust. While corsets existed, the 1790s favored less restrictive stays that allowed for greater freedom of movement.
Photo of short stays over a shift with gathered neckline
Hairstyles and Accessories: Embracing Natural Beauty
Natural hairstyles, featuring loose curls and simple updos, replaced the elaborate wigs and powdered styles of the previous era. Turbans, bonnets, and caps became fashionable headwear, adorned with ribbons, feathers, and flowers. Reticules, small handbags, emerged as a practical accessory for carrying personal items.
Turban held with a broach from Festive Attyre. Turbans were a popular hairstyle choice, often embellished with brooches or other ornaments.
Footwear: Stepping into Comfort
Heels gradually lowered throughout the decade, eventually giving way to flat slippers. Shoes were typically made of silk or leather, with minimal embellishment.
Shoes from 1795, The Met. Flat, simple shoes reflected the overall trend towards comfort and practicality.
The Legacy of the 1790s: A Fashion Revolution
The “new fashion ladies suit” of the 1790s represented a significant departure from the past, embracing simplicity, natural beauty, and individual expression. This era laid the foundation for the Regency styles that would dominate the following decades, influencing fashion for years to come.
