Fashion inspiration comes from diverse sources, but for many style-conscious men, cinematic portrayals of mobsters have been a significant influence. Classic films like The Godfather, Goodfellas, Scarface, and Casino have indelibly shaped our perception of cool, particularly when it comes to men’s style.
Remember the first time you saw Michael Corleone (Al Pacino) transition into his role as don in The Godfather, clad in a sharp, pinstripe suit? Or Henry Hill (Ray Liotta) in Goodfellas sporting a sharkskin suit and a boldly styled black collared shirt? For many, these cinematic moments sparked a sartorial awakening, epitomizing an undeniably cool aesthetic.
While the morality of the mobster lifestyle is questionable, the allure of their style is undeniable. The on-screen glitz and glamour, manifested in their clothing choices, has captivated audiences for decades. While we certainly don’t endorse the criminal lifestyle, emulating their iconic look is a popular pursuit for many.
Interestingly, much of the fashion showcased in gangster films, both fictional and based on reality, is rooted in authentic historical trends. If you’re looking to capture the essence of “wiseguy” style, this guide breaks down key looks you can incorporate into your wardrobe.
The Don Look: Mastering the Power Suit
Suits are the cornerstone of Mafia Fashion, instantly recognizable as the uniform of the wiseguy. However, not just any suit will convey the right message. Achieving the authentic “Don” look requires attention to detail and an understanding of classic tailoring.
Films like The Godfather and The Godfather Part II, particularly the flashback scenes featuring a young Vito Corleone (Robert De Niro), offer a masterclass in early mafia style. The clothing reflects the time periods in which these stories are set, emphasizing classic elegance and understated power.
Michael Corleone’s style transformation, from military attire to ivy league, culminates in darker, more authoritative suits as he assumes his family role. His signature gray, charcoal, and black pinstripe suits are impeccably tailored, featuring generous cuts, three-piece ensembles, and commanding double-breasted jackets with peak lapels. This silhouette is the epitome of mafia fashion power dressing.
These outfits project status and authority, the very essence of “mafia style.” To replicate this, focus on the fit and features of your suits.
For “The Don” aesthetic, opt for full-cut Italian tailoring in gray, charcoal, or deep navy blue. Pinstripes, chalk stripes, or subtle windowpane patterns are ideal. Jackets should feature wide, fuller lapels, especially if double-breasted, and trousers should have a higher rise.
Details like silk suspenders (with button attachments), cuffed trouser legs, single or double pleats, and structured jacket shoulders further enhance the look.
Pair your “Don” suit with dark dress shoes, such as dark brown or black oxfords. Crisp white or subtly striped dress shirts with fuller, pointier collars are essential. Ties should be medium-to-wide and proportionate to the lapel width, completing this powerful mafia fashion statement.
The Regular Wiseguy: Embracing 70s Flair
The “golden age” of the American mafia, particularly the Cosa Nostra, spanned the 1950s and 1960s. While the RICO Act of 1970 marked a turning point, the wiseguy style of the 60s, 70s, and 80s endures in popular culture, thanks to iconic films like Goodfellas, Mean Streets, Casino, and Donnie Brasco.
Reflecting broader cultural trends, mafia fashion in the 70s became decidedly “groovy,” significantly shaping the public perception of gangsters in the latter half of the 20th century.
Sleeker, sometimes sleazier suits, pointier collars, and bolder colors became prevalent, influencing gangster style significantly.
Martin Scorsese’s Goodfellas perfectly captures this stylistic shift. From Henry Hill’s iconic vertical-striped knit polo worn open over a ribbed tank top, paired with wide-leg trousers and loafers, to the more formal, yet equally bold character looks throughout the film, Goodfellas is a treasure trove of 70s mafia fashion inspiration.
For a more casual take on the gangster look, 70s tailoring is ideal. Think double-breasted suits with sharp, padded shoulders and subtle flared legs, combined with large, floppy disco-era collars worn popped over the jacket lapels. Loafers are, of course, a must-have footwear choice.
Sharkskin suits also fit this era, provided the proportions are retro-accurate and paired with a more relaxed shirt, with a popped collar being an optional, yet characteristic, detail.
Sharp as a Switchblade: The Spearpoint Collar
For a dressier yet distinctly 70s mobster vibe, spearpoint collared dress shirts are indispensable.
While the extremely long, narrow collars famously worn by Joe Pesci, Ray Liotta, and Robert De Niro in Goodfellas were custom-made for the film, less exaggerated versions of these shirts are available in the vintage market.
However, for the authentic “Goodfellas” spearpoint collar, the Spearpoint Cotton Shirt by British brand Thomas Farthing is a perfect replica, capturing the sharp style impeccably.
To complete a sharp, contemporary gangster look, follow the suit guidelines outlined in “The Don” section: darker colors, full-fitting jackets and trousers, and patterns like pinstripe, herringbone, or birdseye.
Mafia Fashion: The Power of Accessories
A defining characteristic of the stereotypical mobster is their embrace of accessories. They understand the power of details to elevate their image.
Gold watches, particularly slim, elegant styles, along with gold and silver chains and bracelets are essential components of this aesthetic.
Rings, especially bold statement pieces, are particularly significant. Old-school mobsters frequently sported various rings, often adorned with precious stones and crafted from luxurious metals.
Pinky rings are perhaps the most conspicuous and iconic choice, though other fingers are equally valid for showcasing rings.
When it comes to accessories, experimentation is key, but exercise caution. Choose pieces that resonate with your personal style and feel authentic to you. Confidence is crucial when sporting bolder jewelry like a pinky ring, and building up to such statement pieces can be part of the style journey.
Cool and Casual Mafia Style
Mafia style isn’t solely defined by suits. Tony Soprano, the iconic “waste management consultant” from HBO’s The Sopranos, provides a blueprint for a more relaxed, yet still distinctly wiseguy, wardrobe. While Tony certainly wears fine Italian suits, his modern, suburban setting calls for a more versatile approach.
Tony Soprano’s casual style offers valuable lessons for everyday mafia-inspired looks that don’t require a suit. His wardrobe is a rich source of inspiration even beyond the specific context of mafia fashion.
To emulate this style, opt for full-fitting, double-pleated tailored pants in neutral shades like tan, gray, and black. Pair them with expressive bowling shirts, camp collar shirts (worn over a tank top for that authentic touch), and knit polos. Invest in quality leather shoes such as loafers or derbies, and don’t forget a stylish watch. Flashy accessories, as previously discussed, are also welcome additions.
Wiseguy Wisdom: Context is Key
Mastering mafia fashion is not just about clothing; it’s about context. While you can certainly integrate these style elements into your personal wardrobe, consider the setting. Wearing a three-piece pinstripe suit to run errands might appear costumey.
However, for a romantic dinner or a sophisticated evening at a supper club, the same suit becomes effortlessly cool and appropriate. The on-screen mobsters’ style works so well because they inhabit environments that complement their attire.
Therefore, the ultimate tip for embracing mafia fashion is to cultivate a lifestyle that allows the style to feel natural. Skip the life of crime, but embrace the sophisticated environments where this style truly shines. Don your sharp Italian double-breasted suit, spearpoint collar shirt, silk tie, loafers, and head to that upscale venue. The right setting is the final ingredient in perfecting mafia fashion.
