Korean Female Fashion: A North Korean Defector’s Perspective

North Korean female defectors offer unique insights into the stark contrast between the restricted clothing culture of North Korea and the vibrant fashion scene of South Korea. Interviews reveal six key themes: North Korea’s restrictive clothing culture, personal economic conditions in the North, culture shock experienced in the South, fashion sensitivity, self-identity, and various clothing acculturation behaviors.

North Korea’s clothing culture is heavily controlled, with prohibitions on clothing featuring English letters, dyed hair, jeans, and bright colors. Conformity is paramount, and individuality in dress is discouraged. Limited economic resources also restrict clothing choices, with many North Koreans owning only a few basic garments.

Some interviewees who were affluent in North Korea reported access to imported clothing and cosmetics, even occasionally ordering custom-made pieces inspired by South Korean dramas. This highlights a significant economic disparity within North Korea.

Upon arriving in South Korea, defectors experience culture shock related to fashion. They encounter unfamiliar clothing norms for various occasions and are often taken aback by the level of body exposure considered acceptable in South Korean society. Lacking prior experience with diverse fashion styles and shopping, they struggle to navigate the South Korean fashion landscape. Items like distressed jeans, viewed as symbols of poverty in North Korea, further contribute to their disorientation.

Fashion sensitivity varies among individuals. Some defectors eagerly embrace South Korean fashion trends, enjoying shopping and staying current. Others prioritize comfort and practicality over trends, unconcerned with others’ opinions. Many express a desire to blend in and avoid being perceived as a North Korean defector due to fashion choices.

Self-identity plays a crucial role in how defectors adapt to South Korean fashion. Some strive to assimilate completely, wanting to be seen as South Korean and distancing themselves from their North Korean past. Others, disillusioned by experiences in both countries, develop a skeptical identity. A third group adopts an independent identity, embracing their dual heritage and selectively integrating elements from both cultures.

Defectors demonstrate diverse clothing acculturation behaviors, learning South Korean norms through observation and interaction. While most adapt to situational dress codes, some resist adopting South Korean standards of body exposure. Some actively emulate South Korean fashion trends, while others retain North Korean aesthetic preferences. Shopping habits also vary, with some preferring to shop alone and others seeking advice from fellow defectors. Opinions on traditional Korean clothing (Hanbok) differ, with some favoring the luxurious and colorful South Korean style and others expressing nostalgia for the simpler North Korean version. These behaviors can be categorized into assimilation, integration, and marginalization, reflecting varying degrees of embracing and rejecting aspects of both cultures. Fashion sensitivity and self-identity significantly influence which acculturation path a defector follows. High fashion sensitivity often leads to assimilation, while a strong South Korean-oriented identity reinforces the desire to fully embrace South Korean fashion. An independent identity often results in integration, allowing for the selective adoption of elements from both cultures.

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