The current landscape of Japanese menswear is defined by brands with distinct personalities and unique approaches to design. These labels are driven by individual passions, transforming hobbies into sought-after products. This highly personal approach, where the designer’s interests shape the brand’s direction, marks a departure from traditional trends. These brands are not merely fitting into existing global aesthetics or recreating classic styles; they are forging new paths fueled by genuine enthusiasm and singular visions.
A.Presse, helmed by Kazuma Shigematsu, exemplifies this trend. Shigematsu’s meticulous vintage collecting background informs his designs, resulting in exquisitely crafted garments with luxurious materials like silk, cashmere, and suede. The brand’s attention to detail and commitment to quality have garnered international recognition.
Similarly, Taiga Takahashi, despite the tragic passing of its founder, continues to produce timeless yet modern clothing. The brand skillfully blends classic elements with contemporary design sensibilities, appealing to discerning individuals who appreciate subtle sophistication.
Unlikely Dry Goods, under the creative direction of Shinsuke Nakata, embodies the essence of this new wave. Nakata, known for his previous work with Beams Plus and Daiwa Pier39, masterfully combines elements of Americana with a distinctly Japanese perspective. The brand’s strong personality resonates with those seeking unique and individualistic style.
Setinn, a tennis-inspired apparel brand designed by Shingo Arai, draws inspiration from the ’90s golden era of on-and-off-court style. The brand captures the spirit of classic sportswear while incorporating modern elements, appealing to a contemporary audience.
Tightbooth, co-founded by Japanese skateboarding legend Shinpei Ueno, infuses classic skatewear with a modern Japanese street style aesthetic. Characterized by oversized pants, graphic prints, and unconventional tailoring, the brand caters to a fashion-forward audience that appreciates individuality and bold statements.
Creek Angler’s Device cleverly blends streetwear and fly-fishing influences, creating a unique and highly sought-after aesthetic. Despite its relatively low profile outside of Japan, the brand consistently sells out its releases, demonstrating the strong demand for its distinctive style. Smaller brands like Brochure and Cup & Cone also exemplify this trend, focusing on meticulous craftsmanship and elevating everyday garments to extraordinary levels. The declining value of the yen relative to the dollar has incentivized Japanese brands to expand their reach into the global market. This presents an opportunity for discerning consumers worldwide to discover the unique and compelling offerings of Japanese menswear. The success of these brands suggests a growing fatigue with global megabrands lacking distinct identities. Consumers are increasingly drawn to authenticity, passion, and individuality—qualities embodied by this new wave of Japanese fashion. These brands demonstrate that style flourishes within niche communities and subcultures, where personal expression and unique perspectives are celebrated.
