Italian women’s fashion during the Italian Wars (1494-1559) and the preceding decades was a captivating blend of elegance, practicality, and social status. This comprehensive guide delves into the intricacies of Italian women’s attire during the 14th and 15th centuries, drawing from historical paintings, documented research on historical dress reconstruction (ricostruzione di abiti storici) and tailoring (sartoria storica), and extant garments.
Fabrics and Materials: The Foundation of Italian Fashion
Natural materials formed the cornerstone of Italian clothing. Linen (lino), hemp (canapa), cotton (cotone), wool (lana), and silk (seta) were widely used. Luxurious fabrics like silk velvet (velluto di seta), brocade (broccati), and fur (pelliccia) adorned the wardrobes of the upper class, reflecting their wealth and prestige. Historical records, such as deeds, inventories, sumptuary laws, and wills, provide valuable insights into the materials and styles prevalent in this era.
The Underpinnings: Biancheria (Underwear)
Beneath the visible layers of clothing lay the essential biancheria. The camicia (chemise) served as the base layer, crafted from linen and often embellished with silk embroidery for the elite. Initially featuring a flat neckline, the camicia evolved by the late 15th century, with gathers at the neck eventually developing into the separate gorgiere (ruff).
Calze (stockings), typically white or red, were sometimes adorned with silk embroidery for upper-class women. Historical inventories reveal details like velvet ribbons woven with silver used as garters. Sumptuary laws even dictated sock styles, prohibiting soled socks for servants and wet nurses.
14th Century Styles: The Trecento (XIV Secolo)
The trecento showcased distinctive styles like the gonella and the cipriana. The gonella, a semi-fitted dress without laces, appears in frescoes and artwork. Often made in due colori (particolor), this style utilized eight gores (gheroni) in its construction.
The cipriana, a fitted dress with buttons, emerged in the latter half of the century. Characterized by a wide neckline and a line of silver or pearl buttons extending to the hem, the cipriana embodied a more tailored silhouette.
Overdresses (sopravvesti) like the guarnacca, cottardita, and pellanda complemented the trecento wardrobe. The guarnacca featured distinctive manicottoli affrappati (dagged tippets/sleevelets), while the wide-sleeved cottardita often appeared in vibrant colors and sometimes with dags (affrappata). The pellanda, an overdress extending into the 15th century, exhibited variations in neckline and sleeve styles.
15th Century Fashion: The Quattrocento (XV Secolo)
The quattrocento ushered in new styles, with the guarnello and gamurra taking center stage. The guarnello, a front-laced working-class dress, consisted of a smooth bodice and pleated skirt, often made from simple materials like cotton, hemp, or unbleached wool.
A Guarnello, a common working-class dress
The gamurra, a versatile dress worn across social classes, became a defining garment of the quattrocento. From simple wool versions for the middle class to elaborate silk and brocade creations for the elite, the gamurra showcased a wide array of colors, fabrics, and sleeve designs. Often adorned with intricate embroidery, pearls, and precious stones, the gamurra reflected the wearer’s status and taste. Later in the century, finestrelle (decorative cuts in the sleeves) allowed for glimpses of the camicia beneath.
A young woman depicted by Ghirlandaio in 1485
The cotta, similar to the gamurra but made from lighter fabrics, provided a cooler option for summer months. Overdresses like the pellanda (for winter) and the sleeveless giornea and sleeved cioppa (for warmer weather) completed the ensemble.
Footwear: From Pianelle to Zoccoli
Shoes (scarpe) played an essential role in Italian women’s fashion. Pianelle, flat slippers worn indoors, evolved into outdoor versions with varying heel heights. Zoccoli, protective overshoes resembling pattens, shielded delicate footwear from the mud and dirt of the streets.
Conclusion: A Legacy of Elegance and Influence
Italian women’s fashion during the 14th and 15th centuries left an indelible mark on the history of dress. From the intricate details of the gamurra to the practicality of the guarnello, Italian styles reflected a unique blend of artistry, social customs, and evolving aesthetics. This period laid the foundation for many future fashion trends, solidifying Italy’s position as a center of sartorial innovation.
