The recent LVMH Prize winners have sparked a conversation about sustainability in high fashion. Ellen Hodakova Larsson, recipient of the primary LVMH Prize, notably utilizes deadstock fabrics and upcycled garments in her designs. This raises the question: is this approach to fashion, reminiscent of a “let’s put on a show” resourcefulness, the future of the industry? Let’s delve into the sustainable practices of these emerging designers and explore the potential impact on luxury fashion.
Ellen Hodakova Larsson: Redefining Luxury with Upcycled and Deadstock Materials
Hodakova, the brainchild of Swedish designer Ellen Hodakova Larsson, challenges conventional notions of luxury by incorporating pre-existing garments and deadstock fabric into innovative designs. Larsson’s Spring 2025 collection featured dresses crafted from old canvas paintings and belts, showcasing a transformative approach to design.
The ingenuity of Larsson’s designs lies in her ability to create stunning garments where the materiality, while clever, doesn’t overshadow the overall aesthetic. This raises the question: can LVMH translate this sustainable approach into a commercially viable model? While mass production seems unlikely, Larsson’s unique designs could attract a niche market, potentially paving the way for a more sustainable future in luxury fashion. Perhaps accessories and smaller leather goods, often the financial backbone of luxury brands, could be the key to commercial success for a brand like Hodakova.
Duran Lantink: The Circularity of Luxury Fashion and Deadstock Fabric
Duran Lantink, winner of the Karl Lagerfeld Prize, also champions upcycling, initially using unsold garments from luxury brands. His 2021 collection, showcased in a video filmed by drones, featured repurposed Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga pieces, gaining widespread attention. While his more recent work utilizes deadstock fabrics instead of pre-existing designer garments, the commitment to sustainability remains.
Lantink’s innovative approach extends beyond material selection. His belief that a garment is never truly “finished” allows for transformations and customization, further embracing the principles of circularity. This dedication to sustainability makes Lantink a designer to watch.
Standing Ground: Exquisite Craftsmanship and Made-to-Order Sustainability
Michael Stewart, recipient of the Savoir-Faire Prize for Standing Ground, focuses on meticulous craftsmanship and made-to-order garments. His intricate designs involve inserting beads between fabric layers, creating unique, labor-intensive pieces.
Stewart’s commitment to made-to-order production ensures minimal waste and allows for personalized creations. His resistance to mass production underscores a dedication to craftsmanship and sustainability that aligns with a growing demand for conscious consumption.
A Shift Towards Transparency and Sustainable Practices
The recognition of these designers signals a potential shift in the luxury fashion landscape. Their commitment to sustainable practices, utilizing deadstock materials and upcycled garments, challenges the traditional model of mass production and encourages a more conscious approach to design and consumption. However, greater transparency regarding material composition is crucial for consumers to make informed choices. The lack of readily available information about materials used in runway looks hinders this progress. As awareness of environmental and social responsibility grows, transparency and sustainability will become increasingly important for brands seeking to resonate with a conscious consumer base.
