‘90s nostalgia has been driving the fashion scene for several years, and ‘90s hip-hop fashion has been central to that revival. Current trends have been dominated by Supreme, the New York skate brand whose formula is largely built on the legacy of ‘90s street fashion.
The ‘90s are well-known for their wealth of fashion trends. As the last period before the digital world dominated culture, the legacy of the ‘90s is viewed through a rose-tinted lens of CD covers, magazine spreads, and blockbuster films. Black music groups like Bones Thugs-n-Harmony and Boyz II Men took the aesthetic of ‘90s hip-hop and created a style that influenced virtually every major boy band of the decade. Hollywood blockbusters like Poetic Justice, Boyz n the Hood, and Juice placed Black American style on the big screen.
For anyone who came of age in the era, the words ‘90s hip-hop fashion likely trigger a laundry list of essential pieces. For younger generations buying contemporary pieces from labels like OFF-WHITE and Palace, it might be hard to understand the references without first-hand familiarity. Here’s a brief rundown of the essential ‘90s hip-hop fashion wardrobe.
Everything you need to know about 90s hip-hop fashion, from the iconic to the obscure.
Timberland Boots
The classic tan suede Timberland boot is known as a staple of New York style, but its origins can also be traced to ‘90s hip-hop. Though intended for construction workers, the boots gained traction among New York’s drug dealers who needed sturdy footwear. Biggie, Tupac, Nas, Aaliyah – virtually every hip-hop and R&B artist you can think of – wore Timberland boots.
A pair of classic tan Timberland boots on a white background.
Dungarees
Of all the styles that the ‘90s produced, the popularity of denim dungarees is perhaps hardest to place. Fitted or baggy, strapped up or with one undone, the unexpected trend got a cultural cosign from the likes of TLC, The Fugees, Will Smith, and Tupac.
If you wanted proof that we’re going through a ‘90s revival, consider that Supreme has consistently released dungarees every season.
Denim
Denim jeans might be a fashion staple today, but that wasn’t always the case. By the ‘90s, labels like Guess Jeans, Versace, Moschino, and Calvin Klein were leading the way in high-end denim, while Black-owned labels like Phat Farm and FUBU cemented denim as part of the ‘90s hip-hop fashion wardrobe.
West Coast artists like Tupac and Eazy-E of N.W.A. took the style even further, pairing denim jeans with oversized denim jackets.
Bucket Hats
Another style popularized by LL Cool J in the late ‘80s, bucket hats were equally popular in hip-hop fashion during the early ‘90s, appearing regularly on members of Wu-Tang Clan and EPMD. Kangol dominated this style, with their Kangaroo logo regularly featuring on rappers’ buckets of choice. The bucket hat style has endured, a popular choice among figures like Earl Sweatshirt and ScHoolboy Q.
Luxury Tracksuits
With high-end designers regularly collaborating with sportswear brands, it’s easy to take the idea of high-end sportswear for granted. But in the ‘90s, sports apparel and high fashion existed in separate spheres. That changed with the rise of premium Italian sportswear brands like FILA, Kappa, and Sergio Tacchini. Tracksuits began appearing in fabrics like velour and silk.
Harlem-based designer Daniel “Dapper Dan” Day created bootleg high-fashion tracksuits for many of hip-hop’s earliest stars throughout the ‘80s, paving the way for the luxury tracksuits we see today.
Kangol Caps
British headwear company Kangol became woven into the cultural memory of ‘90s hip-hop after appearing in seminal films. In 1991’s New Jack City, Wesley Snipes and his crew wore Kangol caps. In Jackie Brown, Samuel L. Jackson’s back-turned Kangol hat became one of his most iconic looks.
Puffy Jackets
Insulated jackets by brands like The North Face and Helly Hansen were a must for anyone spending long hours on street corners in chilly cities. Black youth in East Coast cities took this practical piece of clothing and made it look good. When East Coast rappers rose to stardom, they took the style with them.
Air Jordans
In the ‘90s, the idea of sneakers as anything more than something for sport was an alien concept. When Michael Jordan partnered with Nike on a signature Air Jordan sneaker in 1984, the shoe became a national phenomenon. Nike spun the series off into its own Air Jordan line, creating the first chapter in sneakerhead culture.
Clarks Wallabees
Clarks understated suede moccasin shoe might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think of ‘90s fashion, but the Wu-Tang Clan regularly rocked Clarks Wallabees. Their unique approach to dress redefined hip-hop fashion, just as their music redefined hip-hop’s sound.
Plaid & Check Flannel
Hip-hop and grunge might have had different sounds, but the check flannel shirt united the two subcultures. They were cheap, versatile, and an easy way to add color to an outfit.
