The 1790s marked a pivotal decade in Gentleman Fashion, a period of significant transition influenced by societal shifts and cultural revolutions. This era witnessed a dramatic departure from the flamboyant Rococo styles of previous decades, giving rise to a new aesthetic that prioritized understated elegance and practicality. This article explores the key elements of 1790s gentleman fashion, examining the evolution of daily attire, formal wear influences, and the cultural context that shaped this transformative period.
The Rise of the Corinthian: Embracing the Sporting Look
Inspired by the riding attire of English country gentlemen, the 1790s saw the emergence of the “Corinthian” style. This new aesthetic favored muted, natural colors like browns, blacks, greens, and whites, reflecting a shift towards simplicity and a rejection of the excessive ornamentation of the Rococo era. The 1795 painting of Pierre Sériziat by Jacques-Louis David perfectly encapsulates this trend, showcasing a gentleman in understated yet sophisticated riding attire.
Pierre Seriziat by David, 1795. This painting exemplifies the shift towards natural colors and simpler styles in gentleman fashion.
Evolution of the Three-Piece Suit
While the three-piece suit remained a staple, its form underwent significant changes. The long frockcoat was transformed into the tailcoat, shortened at the front to match the waistcoat and featuring tails at the back. Waistcoats, previously extending to mid-thigh, were cropped to sit above the waist, emphasizing a higher waistline. This evolution can be seen in William Owen’s “Portrait of a Man,” highlighting the new tailcoat and high-waisted waistcoat.
Portrait of a Man by William Owen. Note the shortened waistcoat and the tails of the coat, indicative of the new Corinthian style.
From Heels to Hessians: Footwear in the 1790s
The flamboyant heeled shoes of the earlier 18th century were replaced by two distinct styles: Hessian boots for daywear and simple black slippers for evening wear. Hessian boots, with their military origins and curved tops, became incredibly popular, even for indoor use.
1790s gentleman showcasing the popular Hessian boots. Image by Malibu Darcy.
The Tricorn’s Demise and the Rise of the Top Hat
The first half of the decade still saw the tricorn hat in use. However, the top hat, known then as the silk or beaver hat, began gaining popularity in the latter half, eventually replacing the tricorn entirely by the turn of the century.
Painting of Auguste Vestris wearing a beaver hat
Natural Hair and the Queue: Hairstyles of the Era
Wigs and powdered hair gradually fell out of favor, particularly after the Hair Powder Act of 1795. Natural hairstyles, often featuring a queue tied at the nape of the neck with a ribbon, became the preferred look. Shorter, more disheveled styles, precursors to Regency era trends, also emerged towards the end of the decade.
The Cravat: From Frills to Knots
The elaborate lace cravats of previous eras were replaced by simpler linen cravats tied in various knots. This shift emphasized a cleaner, more refined aesthetic, focusing on the art of tying the cravat rather than the ostentation of lace.
Breeches: Embracing Buckskin and a Closer Fit
Buckskin replaced silk and satin as the material of choice for breeches, reflecting the overall trend towards practicality and a sporting aesthetic. The fit of breeches also evolved, becoming closer and more form-fitting, foreshadowing the tailored trousers of the Regency era. Changes also included a shift from the fly front to the more modest front fall closure.
The Banyan: Comfort and the Indoor Gentleman
For indoor attire, gentlemen favored the banyan, a loose-fitting robe worn over a shirt and waistcoat. This comfortable garment reflected a desire for relaxation and informality in the private sphere.
Undergarments: The Shirt as an Essential Layer
The shirt, considered an undergarment in the 1790s, served crucial hygienic and practical purposes. Long and often made of linen, it protected the skin from coarser fabrics, absorbed sweat, and helped to maintain cleanliness.
Conclusion: A Bridge to Regency Style
The 1790s in gentleman fashion served as a bridge between the extravagance of the Rococo period and the refined simplicity of the Regency era. By embracing practicality, natural aesthetics, and understated elegance, the fashion of this decade laid the groundwork for the iconic styles of the early 19th century. This era of transformation highlights the dynamic interplay between fashion, culture, and societal change.
