Pioneer women’s fashion, while often perceived as purely practical, also encompassed elements of style and adherence to societal norms, even in the challenging conditions of the Western frontier. Exploring their wardrobes reveals a fascinating blend of necessity and a desire to maintain a sense of decorum and femininity, especially when it came to their undergarments.
When considering frontier fashion from 1850-1890, west of Missouri/Arkansas, we focus primarily on the clothing of female homesteaders and settlers. These women, largely white settlers migrating from the East, prioritized practicality but also carried with them expectations of “proper” attire. Their clothing choices reflected less about social status and more about the shared experience of frontier life.
The Foundation: Pioneer Underclothes
Interestingly, the undergarments worn by women in frontier areas were not vastly different from those in Eastern cities. The chemise, a simple, light cotton slip, was a fundamental piece. Its main function was hygiene, acting as a barrier between the body and outer garments and being laundered frequently.
Following the chemise, pantalets, typically made of flannel or cotton, were worn. These served modesty purposes, acting as precursors to modern underwear. Despite the demanding frontier lifestyle, many pioneer women also adopted corsets over their chemise and pantalets.
It’s important to note that for many women moving West, it was driven by aspirations for a better future. They were “proper” women who valued societal norms, and the corset was considered a fundamental garment of the time. While some women might have loosened or forgone corsets for strenuous work, the corset remained a staple in frontier women’s wardrobes, worn whenever possible.
After the corset, petticoats were added. Many women owned multiple petticoats of varying formality and weight, allowing them to adjust for different occasions and weather conditions. Stockings were essential for modesty and warmth when venturing outside or receiving guests. These were held up with garters or tucked into pantalets, though the latter option seems less comfortable.
Fabrics and Practicality in Pioneer Girl Fashion
Calico was the dominant fabric for frontier clothing. Contrary to the perception of calico as purely floral prints, it was actually a type of plain-woven, unprocessed cotton, lighter and more durable than canvas. Its lightness, sturdiness, and ease of cleaning made it ideal for the outdoor demands of frontier life. Calico was available in various dyed options at general stores, or women could dye it themselves using commercial or natural dyes derived from plants.
Cotton and silk were reserved for “Sunday best” and more formal dresses, and women often brought such garments with them as they moved West. Fabric availability depended heavily on access to general stores, which varied across the frontier. In more isolated areas, families might have produced their own fabrics, a topic deserving of separate exploration.
Daily Wear: Adapting Fashion to Frontier Life
Despite their backgrounds, frontier women shared the necessity of daily manual labor. Cooking, cleaning, childcare, laundry, and farm work filled their days. The family’s survival depended on everyone’s physical contribution. Frontier women adapted to a life of hard work quickly, and their clothing reflected this.
While general dress styles with fitted bodices and full skirts remained popular, practical modifications were made. Daily dresses had hemlines raised by about three inches for easier movement. Weights were sometimes sewn into hems to prevent skirts from blowing up in the wind, ensuring modesty was maintained even during chores. Bodices remained fitted, but sleeves were loosened and extended to the wrists, paired with high collars for sun protection.
Laundering was a significant task. “Wash dresses,” simple two-piece dresses of white cotton with printed patterns, gained popularity for their easy care. These were available in stores and copied by seamstresses, worn across socioeconomic lines, highlighting the adaptation of fashion to the practical needs of frontier life.
Sunday Best and Social Occasions: Maintaining Fashion Traditions
Even in remote settlements, communities often formed around churches. Sunday church attendance was generally expected, and women typically owned a special “Sunday best” dress. While some in very poor communities might have attended barefoot, most women, especially those from more privileged backgrounds, reserved dresses for Sundays.
“Sunday best” styles mirrored contemporary fashions in Eastern cities. Full skirts, petticoats, and corsets were essential. Sleeve styles included fashionable bell, leg-o-mutton, or pagoda sleeves, depending on the decade. Skirts reflected current trends, transitioning through crinoline, hoop, and bustle styles. Lighter colors were favored by younger and newly married women, shifting to darker shades later in life. Fashionable hats, kid gloves, and low-heeled boots completed the Sunday ensemble.
Social gatherings like dances, holiday celebrations, and picnics were important community events. Women, when possible, had separate dresses for socializing, valuing these outfits and eagerly anticipating opportunities to create and wear the latest styles.
Magazines like Godey’s Ladies Book circulated widely, even on the frontier, with women eagerly sharing and copying dress patterns and styles. Fabric availability dictated dressmaking possibilities, but even with limited resources, women maximized their wardrobes. Embellishments like hand-crocheted collars, shawls, and other accessories were used to elevate outfits for special occasions.
Accessories: The Finishing Touches of Frontier Girl Style
Accessories played a crucial role in frontier women’s wardrobes. Beyond basic garments, finishing touches were highly valued. Jewelry and accessories were emphasized in accounts of frontier fashion, indicating their importance in expressing personal style and femininity.
Frontier women accessorized with:
- Aprons
- Boots
- Brooches
- Lockets
- Earrings
- Precious stones and metals (when available)
- Hair adornments
- Hats
- Collars and cuffs
- Gloves
- Undersleeves
- Parasols
- Fans
- Handbags
- Shawls
A Lasting Interest in Pioneer Fashion
The lives and fashion choices of pioneer women continue to fascinate. Despite the availability of “prairie style” clothing today, understanding the historical context of pioneer women navigating propriety, beauty, and fashion within a physically demanding life remains compelling. Their resourceful approach to fashion and their dedication to maintaining a sense of style even in challenging circumstances offers a rich area for continued exploration.
