Roaring 20s Male Fashion was a period of revolutionary change, where elegance and sophistication met with practicality and a newfound sense of freedom. Join mens-fashion.net as we explore how the iconic styles of the Jazz Age continue to influence modern menswear, offering inspiration and timeless appeal. Elevate your wardrobe with classic looks and discover how to blend vintage charm with contemporary flair for a truly unique style, incorporating flapper styles and jazz-age elegance.
1. Decoding the Allure of Roaring 20s Male Fashion
The Roaring Twenties, also known as the Jazz Age, was a decade defined by its innovative spirit, technological advancements, and exuberant fashion. Often considered the beginning of the “Golden Age of Menswear,” this era saw the blossoming of the modern suit and a shift in societal attitudes toward personal style. But was the fashion of the 1920s really all about flash and glamour, reminiscent of The Great Gatsby? Let’s delve into the key elements that defined this transformative period.
2. Correcting Common Misconceptions About 1920s Fashion
Before diving into the specifics, let’s dispel some common myths about 1920s male fashion. While popular media often portrays men of this era in pinstripe suits and wielding Tommy guns, this image is more a product of gangster movies than an accurate representation of everyday wear. According to a fashion historian at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), pinstripe suits were indeed worn, but they weren’t the uniform of every man, every day. The reality was far more diverse.
Image Credit: Howard Hughes
3. What Hats Were in Vogue for Men in the 1920s?
Headwear was an essential part of a man’s outfit in the 1920s. While top hats and bowler hats still made appearances, particularly in more formal settings and in England, the fedora reigned supreme.
3.1 The Fedora: The Decade’s Casual Staple
The fedora was by far the most popular hat of the decade. Unlike today, where a fedora might be seen as a formal accessory, it was a casual alternative back then. Characterized by its soft felt, adjustable creases, and snap brim, the fedora allowed men to personalize their look.
3.2 The Flat Cap: A Casual and Versatile Choice
Another popular casual option was the flat cap. In contrast to the eight-piece caps seen in shows like Peaky Blinders, the most common style in the 1920s was a one-piece, pancake-like design. These caps were typically round and flat, resembling a beret, and came in various materials like tweed, wool, linen, and cotton.
Casual men’s headwear of the 1920s
3.3 The Newsboy Cap: A Working-Class Icon
Closely related to the flat cap, the newsboy cap gained popularity in the 1920s. With its rounded shape and short brim, it offered a slightly more structured appearance. Often made from tweed or wool, newsboy caps were favored by working-class men and, of course, the paperboys who inspired its name.
A newspaper boy wearing a panel flat cap, c. 1925.
3.4 The Straw Boater: A Summertime Essential
For the summer months, the straw boater was the go-to choice. These stiff, flat-topped hats with jaunty bands exuded a carefree and relaxed vibe, perfect for warm weather and leisure activities.
4. How Did World War I Influence Facial Hair Trends?
Facial hair trends underwent a significant shift in the 1920s due to the impact of World War I. Before the war, a full mustache was considered the epitome of manliness. However, the use of toxic gas during the war made it difficult for men with large mustaches to properly wear gas masks.
As a result, soldiers were required to shave their beards, and upon returning home, they continued the habit of daily shaving. If men did sport facial hair, it was usually a small mustache, with chin hair being more common among older men.
5. What Suit Styles Defined Men’s Fashion in the 1920s?
The 1920s witnessed a notable evolution in men’s suits. Jackets were cut closer to the body, accentuating the natural waist and resembling a body coat more than a modern suit.
5.1 Suit Fabrics: The Popularity of Wool, Silk, and Tweed
Wool was the most common fabric for suits, though heavier and coarser than modern options. Jackets were typically lined with silk in the body and cotton in the sleeves for durability and comfort.
Tweed was a really popular material for country wear.
5.2 Suit Patterns & Details: Stripes, Tweeds, and Evolving Styles
Patterns included plain fabrics, tweeds, micro patterns, windowpanes, and stripes. Subtle pinstripes were particularly popular, explaining their frequent appearance in gangster movies. The buttoning point was higher in the early ’20s but lowered later in the decade, with wider lapels becoming more common.
A modern suit (left) has a lower gorge height than models from the 1920s (right).
5.3 The Jazz Suit: A Novelty for the Young
The “jazz suit” was another popular style, characterized by its slim silhouette and high waist, creating an hourglass shape. These novelty suits were marketed to young men and often featured slanted pockets and belts, accentuating the waist even further.
6. Shirt Styles of the 1920s: Softer Collars and Attached Designs
Shirt styles in the 1920s were similar to those of the 1910s, with detachable collars still present. However, younger men favored softer, turndown collars, sometimes attached to the shirt. Cuffs included single cuffs for cufflinks, French cuffs, and single barrel cuffs with buttons.
In the United States, shirts with attached collars, cuffs, and bosoms were preferred, offering a more casual and affordable option. The turndown collars were not as high as in previous decades, and soft collars became trendy, offering a more relaxed look. Collar pins and clips were also popular, holding the collar tips down and elevating the tie knot.
7. What About Waistcoats and Vests in the 1920s?
Waistcoats, or vests, were no longer mandatory in the 1920s, particularly in the summer. When worn, they were cut lower, revealing more of the tie and shirt front. The bottom of the waistcoat often featured longer, pointier tips, leading to the trend of leaving the bottom button undone. Vests typically matched the suit, creating a three-piece ensemble, but odd vests were also worn for a more casual look.
8. Exploring Trouser Styles in the 1920s
Belts gained popularity in America during the 1920s, while suspenders remained common in Europe. Early in the decade, trousers followed the Edwardian “drainpipe” style, slim and tapered. By the mid-’20s, single pleats began to appear, aiding in the drape of pressed trouser legs.
Cuffs were modest in size, and toward the end of the decade, trouser legs became slightly wider but remained tapered. The trend of students at the University of Oxford wearing excessively wide trousers, known as Oxford bags, emerged in the mid-1920s, with widths around 23 inches.
9. What Shoe Styles Were Favored by Men in the 1920s?
Boots became less popular in the 1920s, with Oxfords, brogues, and spectators gaining prominence. Two-tone shoes were more common than today, but not universally worn. Shoes featured higher heels and more rounded toes, with smaller broguing and neater stitching.
Two-tone shoes
The quality of the average man’s shoes was generally higher than today, with production primarily in the US or Europe. “Chuck Taylors” or Converse All-Stars were invented during the 1920s, designed for basketball players.
10. Essential Accessories That Defined 1920s Male Fashion
Accessories played a crucial role in completing the 1920s look.
10.1 Canes: From Practical Aid to Stylish Accessory
While canes today are primarily functional, in the 1920s, they were a decorative fashion item. Canes came in various lengths and styles, some featuring elaborate decorations or hidden compartments.
Canes were part of a 1920s ensemble
10.2 Pocket Squares: Adding Color and Style
Mass manufacturing allowed for the introduction of silk pocket squares to a wider audience. Men no longer had to settle for plain white cotton or linen squares and could choose from printed silk options.
10.3 Timepieces: The Rise of the Wristwatch
Pocket watches with watch chains remained popular, but wristwatches gained ground as men wore fewer waistcoats, leaving no natural spot for their pocket watches.
10.4 Eyewear: Affordable Style with Celluloid
The invention of celluloid made eyewear more accessible and stylish. This early thermoplastic was used to replicate tortoiseshell, ivory, or horn products, allowing working-class men to afford the latest styles. Actor Harold Lloyd was known for popularizing imitation celluloid glasses resembling horn or tortoiseshell.
Harold Lloyd wearing celluloid glasses in a 1926 Film Yearbook
10.5 Neckwear: Easier Tying, Bolder Styles
Ties and bow ties remained popular, with bow ties becoming slightly larger than in the 1910s. Softer shirt collars made it easier to tie ties, and styles became bolder and more colorful. The ties often had unfinished edges and were lighter in construction, with interlinings becoming more common in the mid-’20s.
Ties in the 1920s are shorter than they are today.
11. Formal Wear in the Roaring Twenties
Formal attire in the 1920s was defined by specific codes for morning and evening wear.
11.1 Morning Wear
By 1920, the rules for morning wear were well-established but declining in popularity. The full morning code outfit was reserved for celebratory or special events, with slight changes in style from previous decades, such as one or two-button morning coats and striped pants becoming firmly established.
Illustration of two men wearing 1920s formal clothing. The one on the right is wearing a one button morning coat while on the left wear two button.
11.2 Evening Wear
White Tie was reserved for galas, dinners, or special occasions, while Black Tie was more popular. The Black Tie ensemble was often worn with a stiff evening shirt and Marcella starched waistcoat, reflecting a transitional period in formal wear.
1920 black tie ensemble with sleeve cuffs and stiff wing collar
12. The Casual Menswear Revolution of the 1920s
While formal suits remained essential for formal occasions, the 1920s ushered in a notable shift towards a more relaxed and comfortable approach to men’s casual attire. This transformation manifested in several key areas, redefining the fashion landscape of the era.
12.1 Knitwear Takes Center Stage
Sweaters emerged as a stylish and practical favorite amid the colorful tapestry of 1920s men’s fashion. The silhouettes gravitated toward V-neck pullovers and cardigans, some even venturing into buttonless, free-form designs with generous shawl collars. This marked a departure from the stiff formality of previous decades, embracing a softer, more comfortable aesthetic.
12.2 The Rise of Sportswear
The rising popularity of sports and leisure activities in the 1920s significantly influenced men’s casual attire. Golf courses, tennis courts, and boat decks became the new runways, showcasing men in comfortable yet stylish sportswear such as sweaters, pleated trousers, knickerbockers, and sporty blazers.
12.3 The Automobile’s Influence
The increasing popularity of the automobile also influenced men’s casual attire. Driving required practical clothing, and as more men took to the roads, driving caps, goggles, and duster coats became fashionable accessories that signified a modern, mobile lifestyle.
12.4 Bathing Suits & Terry Cloth Robes
With the rise of beach culture, bathing suits, and terry cloth robes became popular for seaside leisure. Men embraced more relaxed fits and vibrant patterns in their swimwear, signifying a shift towards comfort and self-expression in all aspects of their wardrobe.
13. The Enduring Legacy of 1920s Men’s Fashion
The Roaring Twenties left an indelible mark on men’s fashion, characterized by elegance, sophistication, and practicality. Fuelled by the cultural revolution of the Jazz Age and Harlem Renaissance, this era saw a shift towards casual menswear with bold colors, patterns, and individuality.
Icons like Rudolph Valentino and Douglas Fairbanks Jr. further fueled this fashion revolution, inspiring men to add romantic flair and dynamism to their wardrobes. Their influence can still be seen in modern menswear, from tailored suits to bolder patterns and accessories.
Men’s fashion icon during the 1920s – Douglas Fairbanks Jr
If you’re captivated by the style of the 1920s, consider exploring the German series Babylon Berlin for a captivating glimpse into the era’s fashion.
14. What Should I Wear to a Roaring 20s Party?
Here’s an outfit inspired by the era: a white shirt with a barrel button cuff, a darker silk tie with a micro pattern, and an off-white tennis sweater with dark navy accents. Pair this with orange and blue socks, light gray shoelaces, and a blue silk wool pocket square with green and off-white micro patterns. Complete the look with a flat cap.
15. FAQs About 1920s Vintage Menswear
15.1 Why Is the 1920s Called the Roaring Twenties?
The term “Roaring Twenties” captures the decade’s spirit of excitement, prosperity, and social change. It was a time of flappers, jazz music, and booming cities.
15.2 How Did Art Deco Impact 1920s Fashion?
Art Deco significantly influenced 1920s fashion with its geometric shapes, bold colors, and luxurious materials. It celebrated modernism and innovation, leading to streamlined silhouettes and opulent embellishments.
15.3 Did All Men Wear Suits in the 1920s?
No, while suits were popular, many men wore casual attire depending on their occupation and lifestyle.
15.4 How Did 1920s Suits Differ from Modern Suits?
1920s suits had higher waists and wider lapels, often featuring bolder patterns and textures.
15.5 Did Men Wear Belts in the 1920s?
Yes, belts became more common, especially in the US, offering a convenient alternative to suspenders.
15.6 Did Men Wear Shorts in the 1920s?
Shorts were primarily sportswear or for very casual settings, closer to what we call “athletic shorts” today.
15.7 Where Can I Buy 1920s Clothes?
You can find 1920s-inspired attire at vintage and thrift stores, specialty costume shops, and online retailers specializing in vintage or reproduction items.
Ready to explore more about the Roaring Twenties and how to incorporate its timeless elegance into your modern wardrobe? Visit mens-fashion.net for the latest trends, expert advice, and style inspiration. Discover how to express your unique personality with classic looks that blend vintage charm with contemporary flair. For inquiries, reach out to us at Address: 227 W 27th St, New York, NY 10001, United States, Phone: +1 (212) 217-5800, or visit our website at mens-fashion.net. Let mens-fashion.net be your guide to mastering the art of men’s style!
