What Did Women Wear In Medieval Times?

Medieval times fashion for women involved distinct garments that reflected social status. At mens-fashion.net, we provide insights into historical trends and how they relate to modern style. Discover the key elements of medieval women’s attire and how they influence today’s fashion, from undergarments to outer layers. Uncover the historical fashion trends, garment evolution, and social rankings depicted through clothing.

1. What Undergarments Did Women Wear in Medieval Times?

Women in medieval times wore a chemise or shift, also known as a “særk,” as their primary undergarment. This garment could have long sleeves, short sleeves, or shoulder straps, and its length varied. Typically, the chemise was made from uncolored and unbleached linen, offering comfort and modesty beneath outer layers. Women also wore stockings or hose, often the shorter version that ended below the knee and was held up with garters made from leather or woven tape.

Expanding on this:

• Purpose of the Chemise: The chemise served as a protective layer between the skin and the outer garments, helping to keep the outer clothing clean and preventing chafing.
• Materials: Linen was the preferred material due to its breathability and availability. Poorer women would use coarser linen, while wealthier women could afford finer, softer linen.
• Stockings and Hose: These were essential for warmth and modesty, particularly in colder climates. They were either made from woven fabric or leather, depending on the wearer’s social status and the period.
• Social Status and Undergarments: While the basic design remained similar across social classes, the quality of the fabric and the presence of embellishments (such as embroidery for the wealthy) indicated social standing.

2. What Outer Layers Were Common in Medieval Women’s Fashion?

Common outer layers for women included the cote (also known as cotta, tunic, or kirtle), surcotes, bliauts, cyclas or tabards, robes, houppelandes, pellotes or pelices, open-sleeved surcotes, and Burgundian gowns. Each of these garments served distinct purposes and varied in style, reflecting changes in fashion and social status throughout the medieval period. The richer and higher up in the social order you were, the less practical were your garments.

Here’s a breakdown of these layers:

• Cote/Cotta/Tunic/Kirtle: A long dress worn over the chemise, the length of which depended on the wearer’s station and wealth. By the mid-1300s, it became a fitted garment, often buttoned or laced either in front or on the sides.
• Surcotes: These were worn over the cote and could be richly decorated and made from costly fabrics by noble ladies. Some designs were quite advanced, and dresses could have long trains that required assistance to move around.
• Bliaut: Popular in the 1100s, the bliaut featured excessively long sleeves fitted above the elbow and widening below. It had a tight fit on the torso, sometimes laced along the sides, and neck openings decorated with embroidery.
• Cyclas/Tabard: In the 1200s, women wore cyclas similar to those worn by men. Initially a rectangular piece of cloth with a hole for the head, the sides were eventually sewn together to create a long, sleeveless tunic.
• Robes: In the late 1300s, women wore robes belted just under the breasts. These robes had a lot of fabric, folds, and huge sleeves, adding to the grandeur of the outfit.
• Surcote Ouverte: This evolved from the cyclas and was popular from the mid-1300s to the 1500s as a symbol of rank among noble women. It was a sleeveless outer garment with armholes that deepened towards the hips.
• Houppelande/Pellanda: Introduced in the 1360s, this was a sleeved, front-closing robe worn by both sexes. Characterized by huge sleeves often falling to the floor, it was always full-length on women.
• Pellote/Pelice: Popular from the mid-1300s to the 1500s, the pellote was a woman’s sleeveless outer garment with very large armholes trimmed with fur.
• Open Sleeved Surcotes: From 1430-1500, these surcotes were fitted around the body with a loose skirt and sleeves fitted to the elbow, where they were cut open and hung from the arm.
• Burgundian Gown: Around 1430, robes were back in fashion, with narrower sleeves and V-shaped necklines, often fur-trimmed. These gowns were long enough to have trains.

3. How Did the Cote/Kirtle Evolve in Medieval Fashion?

The cote, also known as the cotta, tunic, or kirtle, began as a simple, long garment and evolved into a more fitted and fashionable item by the mid-1300s. Initially, the length of the cote indicated the wearer’s social status and wealth. Over time, it transformed into a tailored garment with buttons or lacings, adapting to evolving fashion trends.

Further details on the evolution of the cote:

• Early Styles: In the early medieval period, the cote was a loose-fitting, floor-length tunic worn over the chemise. Its primary purpose was to provide coverage and warmth.
• Mid-1300s Transformation: Around the mid-14th century, the cote became more form-fitting. This shift coincided with the rise of more tailored outer garments.
• Fastenings: To achieve a closer fit, cotes began to feature buttons or lacings, either in the front or along the sides. This allowed for a more customized fit and accentuated the figure.
• Sleeve Variations: The cote could have short sleeves, allowing the chemise sleeves to show, or feature detachable sleeves pinned over the chemise, offering versatility.
• Social Significance: The quality of the fabric, color, and embellishments on the cote continued to reflect the wearer’s social status. Wealthier women wore cotes made of finer materials, often adorned with embroidery or precious stones.

4. What Were the Characteristics of the Bliaut in the 1100s?

The bliaut, popular during the 1100s, was characterized by its excessively long sleeves, tight fit on the torso, and decorative neck openings. This garment signified status and fashion awareness during its time, setting it apart from simpler tunics. The dress was often worn without a belt.

Key aspects of the bliaut include:

• Sleeves: The sleeves were fitted to a degree above the elbow, opening wider below, and sometimes featuring elongated cuffs. The lowest part of the sleeve was often square.
• Fit: The bliaut had a tight fit on the torso, sometimes laced along the sides to achieve the desired silhouette.
• Neck Openings: These could be round, keyhole, or V-shaped, and were often decorated with embroidery, woven braids, or applied silk bands in contrasting colors.
• Practicality and Aesthetics: The long sleeves were sometimes knotted for practical reasons, but primarily for aesthetic purposes, showcasing the garment’s elegance.
• Social Status: The bliaut was typically worn by noblewomen, and its intricate designs and expensive materials reflected their high social standing.

5. How Did the Cyclas/Tabard Function as Outerwear in the 1200s?

In the 1200s, the cyclas, or tabard, began as a simple rectangular cloth with a hole for the head, evolving into a sewn tunic. Noble women wore it to showcase their status, often pairing it with different-colored tunics underneath. It was almost like the one the men would wear.

Here’s how the cyclas functioned:

• Evolution of Design: The cyclas evolved from a basic rectangular cloth into a more structured tunic by sewing the sides together.
• Layering: It was worn over a cote, allowing women to display different fabrics and colors underneath, enhancing their outfit’s visual appeal.
• Social Indicator: Like other garments, the quality of fabric and embellishments on the cyclas indicated the wearer’s social status.
• Male Influence: The design was similar to those worn by men, reflecting a degree of cross-gender fashion influence during the period.
• Practicality: While it was primarily a fashion statement, the cyclas also provided an extra layer of warmth and protection.

6. What Characterized Robes in the Late 1300s?

In the late 1300s, robes were worn belted just under the breasts and had a lot of fabric, folds, and huge sleeves. This style emphasized a voluminous silhouette, reflecting the fashion trends of the time. The robe would have a lot of fabric, folds and huge sleeves.

Key characteristics of these robes:

• Silhouette: The belted style emphasized the upper body, creating a distinct silhouette that was fashionable during this period.
• Fabric and Volume: The use of a lot of fabric contributed to the robe’s luxurious appearance and provided warmth.
• Sleeves: The large sleeves were a defining feature, adding to the overall grandeur and visual impact of the garment.
• Social Status: These robes were typically worn by wealthier women, as the amount of fabric and the quality of materials used would have been expensive.

7. What Was the Significance of the Surcote Ouverte?

The surcote ouverte evolved from the cyclas and was a popular symbol of rank among noble women from the mid-1300s until the 1500s. It was a sleeveless outer garment with armholes that deepened towards the hips, retained as a symbol of rank for aristocratic women into 1500’s.

Here’s what made the surcote ouverte significant:

• Symbol of Rank: The surcote ouverte was primarily worn by noble women, signaling their high social status.
• Design: The deep armholes were a distinctive feature, allowing the underlying cote to be visible and showcasing different fabrics and colors.
• Evolution: As a development of the cyclas, it represented the changing fashion trends and the increasing emphasis on displaying wealth and status through clothing.
• Historical Span: Its popularity over a 200-year period highlights its enduring appeal and significance in medieval fashion.

8. What Defined the Houppelande/Pellanda Fashion in the 1360-1430 Period?

The houppelande, also known as the pellanda, was introduced in the 1360s and remained fashionable until 1430. It was a sleeved, front-closing robe worn by both sexes, characterized by huge sleeves that often fell to the floor. In the north they are called pallanda.

Key features of the houppelande:

• Unisex Garment: Worn by both men and women, though the length varied, with women’s versions always being full-length.
• Sleeves: The enormous sleeves were a defining characteristic, often extending to the floor and adding to the garment’s dramatic appearance.
• Full-Length: For women, the houppelande was always full-length, emphasizing its grandeur and formality.
• Social Indicator: The quality of the fabric and the elaborateness of the design indicated the wearer’s social status and wealth.
• Regional Variations: In northern regions, the garment was known as the pellanda, indicating regional variations in terminology.

9. What Was Distinctive About the Pellote/Pelice of the 1400s?

The pellote, also known as the pelice, was a sleeveless outer garment worn by women in the 1400s. It was characterized by very large armholes trimmed with fur.Over time the cyclas developed into the Pellote and Surcote ouverte and were popular from the mid 1300’s until the 1500’s as a symbol of rank among the noble women.

Notable aspects of the pellote:

• Design: The sleeveless design with large armholes allowed the underlying cote to be visible, showcasing different fabrics and colors.
• Fur Trim: The fur trim added warmth and signaled the wearer’s wealth and status.
• Social Status: Like other luxury garments, the pellote was primarily worn by noblewomen.
• Practicality and Style: While providing warmth, the pellote also served as a stylish outer layer that enhanced the overall outfit.

10. What Defined Open Sleeved Surcotes from 1430-1500?

Open sleeved surcotes, popular from 1430 to 1500, were fitted around the body with a loose skirt and sleeves fitted to the elbow, where they were cut open and hung from the arm. It has many of the same characteristics of the bliaut of earlier periods. The ends of the long sleeves are, like on the hoods, called liripipe.

Key features of open sleeved surcotes:

• Fit and Design: The fitted bodice and loose skirt created a flattering silhouette, while the open sleeves added visual interest and allowed the sleeves of the underlying cote to be seen.
• Sleeves: The fitted sleeves that opened at the elbow were a distinctive feature, reminiscent of earlier bliaut styles.
• Liripipe Detail: The ends of the long sleeves, similar to those on hoods, were called liripipe.
• Social Status: The quality of the fabric and the detailing of the surcote indicated the wearer’s social standing.
• Historical Context: These surcotes reflected the evolving fashion trends of the late medieval period, blending elements of earlier styles with new design innovations.

11. What Were the Hallmarks of the Burgundian Gown from 1430-1500?

The Burgundian gown, fashionable from 1430 to 1500, featured narrower sleeves, a V-shaped neckline, and was often fur-trimmed. These gowns were long enough to have trains, reflecting the opulence and elegance of Burgundian court fashion.Around 1430 the houppelande fell out of fashion again and robes were in again.

Distinctive characteristics of the Burgundian gown:

• Silhouette: The gown had a fitted silhouette that emphasized the waist and bust.
• Sleeves: The sleeves were narrower compared to earlier styles, and often featured large manchets (cuffs).
• Neckline: The V-shaped neckline was a defining feature, often trimmed with fur and revealing the cote and chemise underneath.
• Train: The long train added to the gown’s grandeur and was a symbol of status.
• Social Context: The Burgundian gown was associated with the wealthy and influential Burgundian court, known for its lavish fashion.

12. How Did Gowns Evolve from 1500-1550?

From 1500 to 1550, women’s gowns evolved in different directions across Europe. In Germany and Bohemia, gowns remained short-waisted and tight-laced, while in France, England, and Flanders, the waistline gradually moved towards the natural waist. The high-waisted gown of the late medieval period evolved in several directions in different parts of Europe.

Key regional variations:

• Germany and Bohemia: Gowns were short-waisted and tight-laced but not corseted. The front was open-fronted, laced over a kirtle, or had an insert of a stomacher or plackard. Sleeves were puffed and slashed or had elaborate cuffs.
• France, England, and Flanders: The high waistline gradually moved toward the natural waist in the front and towards a V-shaped point. Large trimmed cuffs came into fashion.

13. What Types of Outerwear Were Used Besides Surcotes and Robes?

Besides surcotes and robes, various cloaks, capes, and mantles were used as outerwear. Practical outerwear included short capes with or without hoods. For more partical outerwear you would wear a short cape with or without a hood.

Different types of outerwear:

• Cloaks: These were general-purpose outer garments that provided warmth and protection from the elements.
• Capes: Often shorter than cloaks, capes were a convenient option for everyday wear.
• Mantles: These were loose outer garments or cloaks cut in the round, open down the front, and fastened either on the shoulder or in front. They were used by both men and women, often in ceremonial capacities.

14. What Was the Purpose of the Chape?

The chape was a short, hooded cape that covered the head and shoulders, often featuring a hole cut in the fabric to frame the face. It later developed into the liripipe.The chape is a short hooded cap that later developed into the liripipe.

Functions of the chape:

• Head and Shoulder Covering: It provided warmth and protection for the head and shoulders.
• Hooded Design: The hood offered additional protection from the elements.
• Evolution: It evolved into the liripipe, indicating its role in the development of medieval headwear.

15. What Was the Role of the Mantle in Medieval Attire?

A mantle was a loose outer garment or cloak, cut in the round and fastened at the shoulder or front. Used by both men and women, it was often worn in ceremonial or representative capacities.A mantle was a loose outer garment or cloak cut in the round, open down the front and fastened either on the shoulder or in front; used by both men and women. It was often worn in a ceremoniel or representative capacity.

Roles of the mantle:

• Outer Garment: It served as a general-purpose outer layer for warmth and protection.
• Ceremonial Use: Often worn in ceremonial or representative capacities, indicating its importance in formal settings.
• Unisex Design: Used by both men and women, highlighting its versatility.
• Design: Mantle was loose outer garment or cloak cut in the round, open down the front and fastened either on the shoulder or in front

16. What Was the Purpose of Gardecorp

The Gardecorp came into fashion in the 1200’s. The garment is wide in the body and has long sleeves. The sleeve are cute open near the armpits so that the arm can pass though when the warm of the sleeves are not needed.

The gardecorp came into fashion in the 1200’s. The garment is wide in the body and has long sleeves. The sleeve are cute open near the armpits so that the arm can pass though when the warm of the sleeves are not needed. The length wary from knee to full length. They often have a hood that is worn up or down. The fashion lasted until some time in the 1300’s. Though variants turn up later.

17. How Did Commoners Dress Compared to Nobles?

Commoners wore simpler and more practical clothing compared to nobles. Their tunics were often shorter, reaching the ankles or mid-shin, and they frequently wore aprons over their tunics.Commoners would also wear a shift and cotta/tunic.

Key differences in commoner attire:

• Simplicity and Practicality: Commoners’ clothing was designed for work and everyday activities, focusing on functionality over fashion.
• Shorter Tunics: Tunics were shorter to allow for ease of movement.
• Aprons: These were commonly worn over tunics to protect clothing during work.
• Materials: Commoners used coarser and less expensive materials compared to the fine fabrics worn by nobles.

18. What Can We Learn About Medieval Times Fashion Women From Modern Fashion?

Modern fashion draws inspiration from medieval times fashion women, incorporating elements such as layering, flowing silhouettes, and unique sleeve designs. These influences can be seen in contemporary gowns, outerwear, and even everyday wear. From historical reenactments to fashion runways, the allure of medieval attire persists, offering a glimpse into a bygone era.

Ways medieval fashion influences modern trends:

• Layering: The medieval practice of layering garments is still prevalent in modern fashion, allowing for versatility and style.
• Silhouettes: Flowing silhouettes and empire waistlines reminiscent of medieval robes can be seen in contemporary designs.
• Sleeve Designs: Unique sleeve designs, such as bell sleeves and fitted upper sleeves with hanging fabric, continue to inspire modern fashion.
• Fabrics and Textures: The use of rich fabrics like velvet and brocade, often seen in medieval attire, adds a touch of luxury to modern garments.
• Inspiration for Designers: Designers often draw inspiration from historical periods, including the medieval era, to create unique and innovative collections.

19. How Can You Incorporate Medieval-Inspired Elements into Your Wardrobe?

You can incorporate medieval-inspired elements into your wardrobe by choosing garments with flowing silhouettes, rich fabrics, and unique sleeve designs. Layering pieces like tunics, vests, and capes can also create a medieval-inspired look. Accessorize with belts, boots, and jewelry that evoke the era.

Tips for incorporating medieval elements:

• Choose Flowing Silhouettes: Opt for dresses and skirts with empire waistlines and flowing fabrics that create a soft, romantic look.
• Incorporate Rich Fabrics: Look for garments made from velvet, brocade, and linen to add a touch of medieval luxury.
• Experiment with Sleeve Designs: Try garments with bell sleeves, fitted upper sleeves with hanging fabric, or other unique sleeve designs inspired by the era.
• Layering: Layer tunics, vests, and capes to create depth and visual interest.
• Accessorize Wisely: Add belts, boots, and jewelry that evoke the medieval era, such as wide leather belts, simple metal bracelets, and pendant necklaces.

20. Where Can You Find More Information and Inspiration on Medieval Fashion?

You can find more information and inspiration on medieval fashion at mens-fashion.net. We offer a range of articles, style guides, and resources to help you explore historical fashion trends and incorporate them into your modern wardrobe. Explore museums, historical reenactments, and online resources for additional insights and ideas.

Additional resources:

• mens-fashion.net: Explore our website for in-depth articles, style guides, and resources on medieval fashion.
• Museums: Visit museums with historical clothing collections to see authentic medieval garments up close.
• Historical Reenactments: Attend historical reenactments to see how medieval clothing was worn and used in real-life settings.
• Online Resources: Explore reputable online resources, such as academic journals, historical societies, and fashion blogs, for additional information and inspiration.

For more insights into men’s fashion and historical trends, visit mens-fashion.net.

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FAQ About Medieval Times Fashion Women

1. What was the basic undergarment worn by women in medieval times?
   The basic undergarment was a chemise or shift, also known as a “særk,” typically made from uncolored linen.

2. How did social status affect the materials used for undergarments?
   Poorer women used coarser linen, while wealthier women could afford finer, softer linen with embellishments.

3. What was the cote, and how did it evolve over time?
   The cote was a long dress worn over the chemise, evolving from a loose-fitting tunic to a more fitted garment by the mid-1300s with buttons or lacings.

4. What were the key characteristics of the bliaut in the 1100s?
   The bliaut featured excessively long sleeves, a tight fit on the torso, and decorative neck openings.

5. How did the cyclas/tabard function as outerwear in the 1200s?
   The cyclas was a sleeveless tunic worn over a cote, showcasing different fabrics and colors underneath, indicating social status.

6. What characterized robes in the late 1300s?
   Robes were worn belted just under the breasts, with a lot of fabric, folds, and huge sleeves, emphasizing a voluminous silhouette.

7. What was the significance of the surcote ouverte?
   The surcote ouverte was a sleeveless outer garment worn by noble women from the mid-1300s to the 1500s as a symbol of rank.

8. What defined the houppelande/pellanda fashion in the 1360-1430 period?
   The houppelande was a sleeved, front-closing robe worn by both sexes, characterized by huge sleeves often falling to the floor.

9. What was distinctive about the pellote/pelice of the 1400s?
   The pellote was a sleeveless outer garment with very large armholes trimmed with fur, worn by noblewomen.

10. What defined open sleeved surcotes from 1430-1500?
    Open sleeved surcotes were fitted around the body with a loose skirt and sleeves fitted to the elbow, where they were cut open and hung from the arm.