Are you intrigued by the allure of “Male 1920s Fashion” and how to incorporate it into your wardrobe? At mens-fashion.net, we’ll guide you through the defining styles, fabrics, and accessories of the Roaring Twenties, offering expert advice on achieving that timeless elegance. This comprehensive guide explores everything from iconic suits and hats to the nuances of facial hair and formalwear, empowering you to capture the spirit of the Jazz Age. Explore how iconic menswear can elevate your contemporary style with vintage charm, sartorial elegance, and classic charm.
1. Unveiling the Essence of 1920s Menswear
What exactly defined men’s fashion in the 1920s? The Roaring Twenties, also known as the Jazz Age, were a time of technology, innovation, high fashion, and wild parties. This decade is often seen as the start of the “Golden Age of Menswear,” during which the modern suit truly began to take shape. The fashion of the 1920s was marked by elegance, sophistication, and practicality. World War I was over, ushering in an era of freedom, celebration, and self-expression through style. People wanted to dress up again, and fashion rapidly evolved for both women and men, allowing individuals to express themselves freely through their clothing choices.
1.1. Addressing Common Misconceptions About 1920s Style
What are some prevalent misconceptions about 1920s fashion? It’s easy to fall into the trap of thinking that 1920s style was all about pinstripe suits and Tommy guns, thanks to gangster movies and shows like Boardwalk Empire. However, real men back then dressed in a variety of styles. Different countries had different climates and clothing traditions, so the fashion varied. This guide primarily focuses on the US and compares it to Europe. Forget the exaggerated movie portrayals; the reality was far more nuanced and diverse.
A still from “Scarface” depicting men in black suits and fedoras, which is a common but inaccurate portrayal of everyday 1920s menswear.
1.2. The Headwear of the Era: Popular Hats for Men
What types of hats were commonly worn by men in the 1920s? Hats were a crucial part of a man’s wardrobe in the 1920s, with styles not significantly changed since the Edwardian era. Top hats and bowler hats were still seen, especially in England, but the fedora was the most popular.
1.2.1. Fedora: The Casual King
Why was the fedora so popular? The fedora was the most popular hat of the decade, considered a casual alternative to more formal headwear. It featured a soft, adjustable brim and could be shaped to the wearer’s preference, adding a personal touch. According to research from the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), the fedoras of the 1920s typically had narrower brims and higher crowns compared to modern versions.
An infographic detailing the features of a typical 1920s fedora hat.
1.2.2. Flat Cap: The Everyday Essential
What made the flat cap a staple? The flat cap was another popular casual option, often made from tweed, wool, linen, or cotton. Unlike the exaggerated versions seen in shows like Peaky Blinders, the most common style was a pancake-like one-piece flat cap, round and flat on top.
A photograph showcasing a man wearing a flat cap, highlighting its casual appeal in the 1920s.
1.2.3. Newsboy Cap: The Working-Class Favorite
What’s the story behind the newsboy cap? The newsboy cap, similar to the flat cap, was favored by working-class men and paperboys. Its full, rounded shape and short brim offered a slightly more structured look, adding to its popularity among those who wanted a practical yet stylish head covering.
A vintage photograph of a newspaper boy wearing a panel flat cap, illustrating the cap’s association with the working class.
1.2.4. Straw Boater: The Summer Staple
Why was the straw boater a summer essential? For summertime style, the straw boater was king. These stiff, flat-topped hats with their jaunty bands projected a carefree and relaxed air, perfect for warm weather and leisure activities. They were often seen at sporting events and outdoor gatherings.
1.3. The Impact of WWI on Facial Hair Trends
How did World War I affect men’s facial hair? During the Edwardian and Victorian eras, a mustache was the height of manliness. However, World War I changed this. The use of toxic gas required soldiers to wear gas masks, and facial hair interfered with the masks’ seal. Men returned from the war accustomed to shaving daily. According to historical records, soldiers were instructed to shave their beards to ensure the gas masks worked efficiently, leading to a decline in elaborate facial hair styles after the war.
An illustration depicting two men with the typical facial hair styles of the 1920s: neat mustaches and clean-shaven chins.
2. Decoding the Suits of the 1920s
What defined the suits worn by men in the 1920s? The 1920s saw a significant shift in men’s suits. Jackets were cut more closely to the body to accentuate the natural waist, resembling a body coat more than a modern suit. The buttoning stance was lower, with about two to three buttons, and the fronts were sometimes cut away, inspired by morning coats.
2.1. Fabrics and Patterns: Wool, Silk, Tweed
What materials and patterns were popular for suits? Wool was the most popular fabric, though heavier and coarser than modern wools. The jacket’s body was usually lined in silk, with cotton sleeves for durability. For summer, cotton and linen suits were available, still heavier than today’s options.
A swatch of tweed fabric, representative of the popular material used for country wear and suits in the 1920s.
As for patterns, plain fabrics, tweeds, smaller micro patterns, windowpanes, and stripes were all around. Subtle pinstripes were particularly popular, explaining their presence in gangster movies. These suits were similar to modern business suits but with distinct differences in details such as gorge height, lapel shape, and pocket design.
2.2. Evolution of Suit Styles
How did suit styles evolve throughout the decade? Early in the decade, jackets had a more cutaway front, but as the 1920s progressed, they became more closed, aligning with modern suit designs. The buttoning point was higher in the early ’20s, gradually lowering with wider lapels by the late ’20s. Sleeve cuffs typically had three buttons, spaced more widely than today, without the cuff stitch common in the Edwardian period. According to fashion historians, the transition from cutaway fronts to closed fronts reflected a broader trend towards streamlined and practical designs.
An illustration of a man in the early 1920s, showcasing a jacket with a distinctive cutaway front.
Most jackets had no vents for a sleeker look, though this sometimes exposed the wearer’s rear when hands were in pockets. Fabrics were often darker with subtle underpatterns and rich depth.
2.3. The “Jazz Suit”: A Novelty Style
What was the “jazz suit,” and who wore it? The “jazz suit” was a popular style among young men, featuring a slim silhouette and high waist to create an hourglass shape. It often included slanted pockets and darts for a more suppressed shape, sometimes even with belts like a Norfolk jacket to accentuate the waist further.
An infographic highlighting the defining features of a 1920s jazz suit, including its slim silhouette and high waist.
3. Shirts: Softness and Attached Collars
What were the key characteristics of shirts in the 1920s? Shirts in the ’20s were similar to those of the 1910s, with detachable collars still present, particularly among older or upper-class men. Younger men favored softer turndown collars, sometimes attached. Cuff options included single cuffs for cufflinks, French cuffs, or single barrel cuffs with buttons. Starched bib fronts were less common than in previous decades.
3.1. Attached vs. Detachable Collars
Why were attached collars becoming more popular? While Europe still saw many detachable collar shirts, US men preferred shirts with attached collars and cuffs for a more casual look. Striped shirts with everything attached became affordable, even for the average man. This shift reflected a move towards practicality and convenience.
An image showcasing the attached and soft shirt collars that were becoming popular in the 1920s, especially in the United States.
Collars, especially turndown ones, were not as high as before, and the soft collar trend emerged. These collars were unstarched, made from the same fabric as the body, and had longer, floppier tips. Detachable soft turndown collars were also available, sometimes in contrasting fabrics.
3.2. Collar Pins and Clips
What was the purpose of collar pins and clips? Collar pins and clips were popular accessories, holding the collar tips down, elevating the tie knot, and adding a fashionable touch. They remain a stylish option for those seeking a distinctive look today.
A collar bar clip in yellow gold, designed for classic narrow spread collars, offered by Fort Belvedere.
4. Waistcoats and Vests: An Optional Layer
Were waistcoats always worn with suits? Waistcoats or vests were no longer mandatory in the 1920s, especially in summer. If worn, they were typically cut lower, revealing more of the tie and shirt front. Bottoms of waistcoats started to feature longer, pointier tips, leading to the practice of leaving the bottom button undone.
4.1. Matching vs. Odd Vests
How did men style waistcoats with their suits? Waistcoats typically matched the suit for a three-piece look, but odd vests were also used to create a slightly more casual style. Odd vests can add a unique touch to an outfit with minimal investment.
Sven Raphael Schneider wearing a brown suit with a contrasting cream-colored waistcoat, illustrating the use of odd vests for a more casual look.
5. Trousers, Pants, Slacks: Streamlined Silhouettes
What characterized trousers in the 1920s? Belts became more popular in America, overtaking side adjusters and suspenders, though suspenders remained common in Europe. Early ’20s trousers were heavily influenced by the Edwardian “drainpipe” style, slim and tapered, without pleats.
5.1. Rise of Pleats and Cuffs
When did pleats start appearing in trousers? By the mid-’20s, single pleats started appearing in pants, designed to improve the drape of pressed trouser legs. Cuffs were modest in size, between one and one and a half inches. Towards the end of the decade, trouser legs widened slightly at the bottom but remained tapered.
A fashion illustration showcasing the single pleats that began to appear in trousers during the mid-1920s.
5.2. Oxford Bags: An Extreme Trend
What were Oxford bags, and why were they worn? Students at the University of Oxford popularized excessively wide trousers, known as Oxford bags, starting in the mid-1920s. These trousers typically measured around 23 inches wide, though some reached extreme widths. Oxford bags became a symbol of youthful rebellion and sartorial experimentation.
A collage illustrating various examples of Oxford bags, the wide-legged trousers popularized in the mid-1920s.
6. Footwear: Oxfords, Brogues, and Spectators
What types of shoes were fashionable for men? Boots were slightly less popular in the 1920s compared to the 1910s, with improved street conditions making Oxfords, brogues, and spectators more practical. Two-tone shoes were more common than today. Shoes had higher heels and rounded toes, with smaller broguing and neater stitching.
6.1. Quality and Style of Footwear
How did the quality of shoes differ from today’s standards? The quality of shoes worn by the average man was higher than today, with most men wearing dress shoes made in the US or Europe. Sneakers were not common for everyday wear.
An illustration depicting a pair of brown two-tone shoes, highlighting a popular style of dress shoe in the 1920s.
6.2. The Emergence of Chuck Taylors
When did sneakers start to become popular? Though rubber-soled shoes existed earlier, Converse All-Stars (Chuck Taylors) were invented in the 1920s. Designed for basketball, they provided flexibility and prevented skidding. They were not typically worn as everyday street shoes.
A pair of Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars, highlighting their invention in the 1920s as basketball shoes.
7. Accessories: Adding Personality to the Ensemble
What accessories were essential for completing a 1920s look? The 1920s saw a variety of accessories that added flair and personality to men’s outfits. Canes, pocket squares, timepieces, eyewear, and neckwear each played a significant role in defining the era’s style.
7.1. Canes: From Function to Fashion
What was the role of canes in 1920s fashion? Canes were often carried for decorative purposes, becoming a fashion item. They came in various lengths, stiffness, and decorations, sometimes including built-in flasks or knives. Canes provided both practical assistance and a touch of sophistication to a man’s ensemble.
A photograph illustrating the use of a cane as an accessory in the 1920s, adding a touch of elegance to a man’s outfit.
7.2. Pocket Squares: A Touch of Silk
How did pocket squares evolve in the 1920s? Mass manufacturing made silk pocket squares accessible to a broader range of men. Printed silk squares became popular, offering more variety than plain white cotton or linen. These pocket squares added a pop of color and personality to suits and jackets.
A burnt orange silk pocket square with dotted motifs and paisley patterns, available from Fort Belvedere.
7.3. Timepieces: The Rise of the Wristwatch
Why did wristwatches gain popularity? Pocket watches with watch chains were still common, but wristwatches gained ground. As waistcoats became less frequent, wristwatches became a more practical alternative. This shift reflected a trend towards convenience and modernity.
7.4. Eyewear: Affordable Style with Celluloid
How did celluloid influence eyewear design? The invention of celluloid allowed for more eyewear styles. Celluloid, replicating tortoiseshell, ivory, or horn, made stylish eyewear affordable even for working-class men. Harold Lloyd, the actor, was known for popularizing celluloid glasses resembling horn or tortoiseshell.
A pair of glasses made of celluloid from the 1920s, showcasing the material’s impact on eyewear design.
7.5. Neckwear: Bold Styles, Easier Tying
What trends defined neckwear in the 1920s? Ties and bow ties remained popular. Bow ties grew slightly larger, and softer shirt collars made tying ties easier. Ties looked less like ascots and more like modern ties, though lighter in construction.
The style of ties changed and looked more like modern knit ties. Ties had no lining or very light lining and were shorter than ties today.
A photograph illustrating that ties in the 1920s were shorter compared to modern ties.
Ties often had unfinished edges, and interlinings became more common in the mid-’20s. Styles were bold, colorful, and interesting, with a rise in regimental or club ties. These ties provided a sense of belonging after the end of active service.
8. Formalwear in the Roaring Twenties
What were the key elements of formal attire in the 1920s? Formalwear in the 1920s consisted of morning wear for daytime events and white tie and black tie for evening occasions. Each had its distinct characteristics and evolving styles.
8.1. Morning Wear: Declining Popularity
How was morning wear styled? By 1920, morning wear was well-established but declining in popularity. It was worn for celebratory or special events, not for regular business. Morning coats sometimes had one or two buttons, and striped pants were solidly established with morning wear.
An illustration depicting two men wearing 1920s formal clothing, with one wearing a one-button morning coat and the other wearing a two-button coat.
8.2. Evening Wear: White Tie and Black Tie
What occasions called for white tie or black tie? White Tie was reserved for galas, dinners, or special occasions, while Black Tie was more popular. Black Tie was often worn with a stiff evening shirt previously associated with White Tie, and likewise, the Marcella starched waistcoat.
An illustration of a 1920s black tie ensemble, showcasing the sleeve cuffs and stiff wing collar.
9. Casual Menswear Trends: Relaxation and Comfort
How did casual attire evolve in the 1920s? While formal suits remained essential, the 1920s introduced a more relaxed and comfortable approach to men’s casual attire. This shift manifested in several key areas, redefining the fashion landscape.
9.1. Knitwear Takes Center Stage
What role did sweaters play in casual fashion? Sweaters emerged as a stylish and practical favorite. Silhouettes gravitated toward V-neck pullovers and cardigans, some with buttonless, free-form designs with generous shawl collars.
A knitwear advertisement from 1927-1928, featuring a range of sweaters popular among men during the late 1920s.
9.2. The Rise of Sportswear
How did sports influence casual attire? The rising popularity of sports and leisure activities influenced men’s casual attire. Golf courses, tennis courts, and boat decks became the new runways, showcasing men in comfortable yet stylish sportswear.
An illustration from 1928 depicting a man playing golf, showcasing typical sportswear of the time.
9.3. The Automobile’s Influence
How did cars impact men’s fashion? The increasing popularity of the automobile also influenced men’s casual attire. Driving required practical clothing, and driving caps, goggles, and duster coats became fashionable accessories.
An illustration of men’s attire suitable for driving an automobile in 1929, reflecting the influence of cars on casual fashion.
9.4. Bathing Suits & Terry Cloth Robes
What was beachwear like in the 1920s? With the rise of beach culture, bathing suits and terry cloth robes became popular for seaside leisure. Men embraced more relaxed fits and vibrant patterns in their swimwear.
An illustration of bathing clothes for men from 1928, highlighting the relaxed fits and patterns of swimwear during the era.
10. The Enduring Appeal of 1920s Men’s Fashion
Why does 1920s fashion continue to inspire today? The Roaring Twenties saw a surge in men’s fashion trends characterized by elegance, sophistication, and practicality, fueled by the cultural revolution of the Jazz Age and Harlem Renaissance. Accessories like the fedora and newsboy cap became staples, while the rise of patterns, prints, and relaxed styles mirrored changing cultural landscapes. Icons like Rudolph Valentino and Douglas Fairbanks Jr. further fueled this fashion revolution, inspiring men to add romantic flair and dynamism to their wardrobes.
A photograph of Rudolph Valentino, a men’s fashion icon during the 1920s, wearing a stylish curly lamb coat.
For a visual feast of the period, the German series Babylon Berlin offers a captivating glimpse into the era’s fashion, showcasing familiar and unexpected styles.
10.1. Recreating a 1920s Ensemble
What are the key pieces for a 1920s-inspired outfit? Consider a white shirt with barrel button cuffs, a darker silk tie with a micro pattern, and an off-white tennis sweater with dark navy details. Pair this with a tweed jacket in orange, green, and yellow, and off-white flannel trousers with pleats. Complete the look with leather derby shoes, contrasting shoelaces, and a flat cap in Donegal tweed. Accessorize with Fort Belvedere socks and a silk-wool pocket square.
Raphael in a 1920s-inspired ensemble, showcasing a well-coordinated outfit with key elements from the era.
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11. 1920s Vintage Menswear FAQs
Why is 1920s also called the Roaring Twenties?
The term “Roaring Twenties” captures the decade’s spirit of excitement, prosperity, and social change. It wasn’t just about fashion; it was also about flappers, jazz music, and booming cities. Some believe the name references the “roaring forties,” a geographical term for latitudes with strong winds, implying powerful forces at play during this transformative era.
What was the significance of Art Deco in 1920s fashion?
Art Deco had a significant impact on 1920s fashion, influencing designs with its geometric shapes, bold colors, and luxurious materials. It celebrated modernism and innovation, leading to streamlined silhouettes, geometric patterns, and opulent embellishments in clothing and accessories. Its influence permeated popular culture, shaping the aesthetic of the Jazz Age and leaving a lasting legacy in fashion and design.
Did all men wear suits in the 1920s?
No, definitely not. While suits were popular, many men wore more casual attire depending on their occupation and lifestyle. Working-class men often wore sturdy trousers, button-up shirts, overalls, or workwear in practical fabrics. Younger, fashion-forward men embraced sportswear and casual outfits, especially for leisure activities.
What’s the difference between 1920s suits and modern suits?
1920s suits had higher waists and striking wide lapels and often featured bolder patterns and textures than today’s more subdued styles.
Did men wear belts in the 1920s?
Yes, belts became more common in the 1920s, especially in the US. While suspenders were still popular (especially in Europe), the convenience and clean look of belts made them a fashionable alternative. However, you wouldn’t see the wide, statement belts of today; belts in the 1920s were typically narrower and subtler.
Did men wear shorts in the 1920s?
Yes, but with a caveat. Shorts were primarily sportswear or for very casual settings. They are closer to what we’d call “athletic shorts” today: shorter, looser, and often made of knitted fabrics. They’d be seen at the beach, for sports, or possibly for working-class men in hot weather, but not as part of everyday attire.
Where to buy 1920s clothes?
Acquiring 1920s-inspired attire can be accomplished through several avenues. Brick-and-mortar vintage and thrift stores offer the potential to discover genuine garments from that era. Likewise, specialty costume shops cater to those seeking 1920s-themed apparel and accessories. For a curated selection of period clothing, several online retailers specialize in vintage or reproduction items.
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