What Did Men Wear in the 1920s? A Fashion Guide

1920 Male Fashion, often celebrated as the “Golden Age of Menswear,” represents a pivotal era in men’s style, blending elegance with emerging trends. At mens-fashion.net, we delve into the iconic looks, fabrics, and accessories that defined this transformative decade, offering insights into how these styles evolved and continue to influence modern fashion. Explore the enduring appeal of 1920s menswear, from sophisticated suits to casual sportswear, and discover how to incorporate these classic elements into your wardrobe for a timeless, refined aesthetic. With mens-fashion.net, learn about the art deco movement, jazz age, and prohibition era.

1. What Defined Men’s Fashion in the 1920s?

The 1920s, also known as the Roaring Twenties or the Jazz Age, marked a significant shift in men’s fashion, moving away from the more formal and restrictive styles of the Edwardian era towards greater comfort and self-expression. This period embraced innovation and technological advancements, influencing fashion with sleek lines, lighter fabrics, and a more relaxed silhouette. This era saw the rise of ready-to-wear clothing, making stylish attire more accessible to the masses.

Key characteristics of 1920s male fashion include:

Suits with a Closer Fit: Jackets were tailored closer to the body, accentuating the natural waistline.
Lighter Fabrics: While still primarily wool, fabrics became lighter and more comfortable.
Casual Headwear: Hats like the fedora and flat cap gained popularity as casual alternatives to the top hat.
Evolving Facial Hair: Clean-shaven faces became more common due to the influence of World War I.

2. What Were the Common Misconceptions About 1920s Men’s Style?

Common misconceptions about 1920s men’s style often stem from Hollywood portrayals and exaggerated depictions in popular culture. It is not all pinstripe suits and Tommy guns. While gangster films and shows like Boardwalk Empire can be entertaining, they frequently misrepresent the everyday attire of men during that decade.

Addressing these misconceptions:

Pinstripe Suits Were Not the Only Option: While pinstripe suits were indeed worn, they were not the ubiquitous uniform often depicted. Men wore a variety of suit styles, including plain, tweed, and windowpane patterns.
Not Everyone Was a Gangster: Films often portray men as gangsters, but most men were not involved in illegal activities. Their clothing reflected their professions, social status, and personal preferences.
Accuracy Matters: Relying on accurate sources and historical context is essential for understanding what men truly wore in the 1920s. mens-fashion.net provides detailed insights into the diverse sartorial choices of the era, ensuring a more nuanced and informed perspective.

Tommy guns and men in black suits and fedoras in Scarface

3. What Types of Hats Were in Vogue During the 1920s for Men?

During the 1920s, hats were an essential accessory for men, reflecting both practicality and personal style. While the Edwardian era’s top hats persisted, more casual options gained prominence.

Popular hat styles included:

Fedora: The fedora was the most popular hat of the decade, offering a versatile and stylish option for casual and semi-formal wear.
Flat Cap: The flat cap, also known as a pancake cap, was a casual hat often made from tweed, wool, linen, or cotton.
Newsboy Cap: Similar to the flat cap but with a fuller, rounder shape, the newsboy cap was popular among working-class men.
Straw Boater: This stiff, flat-topped hat was perfect for summertime, projecting a carefree and relaxed vibe.

Each hat style offered a unique look, allowing men to express their individuality and complement their overall attire.

3.1. How Did the Fedora Dominate Men’s Headwear in the 1920s?

The fedora reigned supreme as the most popular hat of the 1920s due to its versatility and stylish appeal. Unlike the formal connotations it may carry today, the fedora was considered a casual alternative during the Roaring Twenties. According to research from the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), in July 2025, the fedora’s soft felt, snap brim, and adjustable creases made it highly adaptable to personal style.

Key features of the 1920s fedora:

Soft Felt: The soft, pliable felt allowed men to shape the hat to their liking.
Snap Brim: The brim could be snapped up or down, adding versatility to the style.
Adjustable Creases: Men could customize the creases in the crown, making each hat unique.
Wide Hatbands: Fedoras often featured wide hatbands, adding a distinctive touch.

1920 Fedora hat – Infographic

3.2. Why Was the Flat Cap a Staple in Casual 1920s Men’s Fashion?

The flat cap was a staple in casual 1920s men’s fashion because of its comfortable design and versatility. Unlike the eight-piece caps seen in shows like Peaky Blinders, the most popular style was the pancake-like one-piece flat cap, characterized by its round and flat top. According to a study by the Costume Society of America, pancake-style flat caps were favored due to their simplicity and adaptability.

Characteristics of the flat cap included:

One-Piece Design: The round, flat top offered a sleek and casual look.
Various Materials: Made from tweed, wool, linen, or cotton, the flat cap suited different seasons and occasions.
Diverse Patterns: Houndstooth, Prince of Wales check, and Donegal tweeds added visual interest.

3.3. How Did the Newsboy Cap Reflect the Working Class of the 1920s?

The newsboy cap, a close relative of the flat cap, became popular in the 1920s, especially among the working class. Its full, rounded shape and short brim provided a slightly more structured look than the flat cap. According to historical fashion analyses, newsboy caps were favored for their practicality and association with the working class.

Features of the newsboy cap:

Rounded Shape: The full, rounded crown added volume and style.
Short Brim: The short brim offered sun protection without being overly formal.
Tweed and Wool: Commonly made from tweed or wool, providing warmth and durability.

3.4. What Made the Straw Boater the Quintessential Summer Hat of the 1920s?

The straw boater epitomized summer style in the 1920s due to its lightweight material and distinctive design. This stiff, flat-topped hat with its jaunty band conveyed a carefree and relaxed air, making it perfect for warm weather and leisure activities. Fashion historians note that the straw boater was a symbol of summer leisure and social events.

Attributes of the straw boater:

Stiff Straw: Provided a structured and polished look.
Flat Top: Distinguished the hat from other styles.
Jaunty Band: Added a touch of personality and style.

4. How Did World War I Influence Men’s Facial Hair in the 1920s?

World War I significantly influenced men’s facial hair trends in the 1920s, leading to a decline in the popularity of full beards and elaborate mustaches. According to research from the National Museum of American History, the war’s emphasis on practicality and hygiene led to a preference for cleaner-shaven faces.

Key factors influencing facial hair trends:

Gas Masks: During the war, toxic gas necessitated the use of gas masks, which fit better on clean-shaven faces.
Hygiene: Military standards promoted daily shaving for hygiene.
Clean-Shaven Preference: Men returning from the war continued the habit of daily shaving.

Illustration of two men from the 1920s

5. What Suit Styles Were Popular for Men in the 1920s?

The 1920s brought a significant shift in men’s suits, moving towards a more fitted and sleek silhouette while maintaining a sense of formality. Jackets were cut closer to the body to accentuate the natural waist.

Key characteristics of 1920s suits:

Fitted Jackets: Jackets were tailored to accentuate the natural waist.
Lower Buttoning Stance: Buttoning points were lower than in the 1910s.
Square Fronts: Jacket fronts became more squared off compared to the cutaway styles of earlier decades.
Wool Fabrics: Heavy wool fabrics were the most popular choice, often lined with silk in the body and cotton in the sleeves.

These changes reflected a move towards more streamlined and modern styles.

5.1. What Fabrics Were Commonly Used in 1920s Suits?

Wool was the most popular fabric for suits in the 1920s, known for its durability and warmth. According to textile historians, these wool fabrics were heavier and coarser than those used today.

Common suit fabrics included:

Wool: The primary choice for its durability and structure.
Tweed: A popular option for country wear, providing texture and warmth.
Cotton and Linen: Used for summer suits, offering lighter and more breathable options.
Silk: Used as lining for jackets, providing comfort and a luxurious feel.

Tweed was a really popular material for country wear.

5.2. What Patterns and Details Defined 1920s Suit Designs?

Patterns and details in 1920s suit designs reflected a blend of subtlety and style. Plain fabrics, tweeds, micro-patterns, windowpanes, and stripes were all common.

Distinctive patterns and details:

Pinstripes: Subtle pinstripes were particularly popular.
High Buttoning Point: Jackets often had a higher buttoning point, around the sternum area.
Sleeve Cuffs: Sleeve cuffs typically featured three buttons, spaced widely apart.
No Vents: Many jackets lacked vents for a sleeker look.

These elements contributed to the overall elegance and sophistication of 1920s suits.

5.3. What Was the Significance of the “Jazz Suit” in 1920s Fashion?

The “jazz suit” was a distinctive style of the 1920s, characterized by its slim silhouette and high waist. According to fashion historians, these suits were novelty items marketed to young men seeking a fashionable and dynamic look.

Key features of the jazz suit included:

Slim Silhouette: Designed to create an hourglass shape.
High Waist: Accentuated the waistline.
Slanted Pockets: Added a dynamic and stylish touch.
Belts: Some jazz suits featured belts, similar to Norfolk jackets, to further accentuate the waist.

The jazz suit embodied the spirit of the Roaring Twenties, reflecting the era’s energy and excitement.

6. How Did Men’s Shirts Evolve in the 1920s?

Shirts in the 1920s retained some similarities to those of the 1910s but with notable changes. While detachable collars were still present, attached collars became more popular, especially among younger men.

Evolution of men’s shirts:

Attached Collars: Gained popularity over detachable collars.
Soft Turndown Collars: Replaced the heavily starched collars of previous decades.
Cuff Options: Included single cuffs for cufflinks, French cuffs, and single barrel cuffs.
Striped Shirts: Became more affordable and accessible.

These changes reflected a move towards more comfortable and casual shirt styles.

6.1. What Collar Styles Were Favored in 1920s Men’s Shirts?

Collar styles in the 1920s shifted towards softer and more relaxed designs. Turndown collars were popular, often featuring longer tips and less starch than earlier styles.

Popular collar styles included:

Soft Turndown Collars: These were less starched and made from the same fabric as the shirt.
Detachable Soft Turndown Collars: Could be made from the same or contrasting fabric.
Collar Pins and Clips: Used to hold collar tips down and elevate the tie knot.

6.2. How Did Collar Pins and Clips Enhance Men’s Style in the 1920s?

Collar pins and clips were essential accessories in the 1920s, adding a touch of sophistication and style to men’s attire. According to fashion historians, these accessories helped maintain the shape of soft collars and elevate the tie knot.

Benefits of using collar pins and clips:

Maintained Collar Shape: Kept the collar tips in place.
Elevated Tie Knot: Added visual interest and sophistication.
Fashionable Look: Offered a stylish and distinctive appearance.

7. How Did Waistcoats and Vests Transform in the 1920s?

Waistcoats, or vests, underwent a transformation in the 1920s, becoming optional rather than mandatory. Men often skipped them, especially in the summer months.

Changes in waistcoats and vests:

Optional Garment: No longer required as part of a suit.
Lower Cut: Designed to reveal more of the shirt front and tie.
Pointed Tips: Bottom edges featured longer, pointier tips.
Matching or Odd Vests: Could match the suit for a formal look or be mismatched for a casual appearance.

These changes reflected a more relaxed and adaptable approach to menswear.

7.1. Why Did Waistcoats Become Optional in 1920s Men’s Fashion?

Waistcoats became optional in the 1920s due to the overall trend towards more casual and comfortable clothing. According to fashion historians, the shift reflected a desire for greater freedom and less restrictive attire.

Factors contributing to the change:

Trend Towards Casual Wear: Men sought more comfortable options.
Seasonal Comfort: Waistcoats were often skipped in warmer months.
Evolving Styles: Lower-cut waistcoats allowed for more visible shirt and tie.

7.2. How Could Men Style Odd Vests for a Casual Look in the 1920s?

Styling odd vests, or contrasting vests, offered men a way to create a more casual and personalized look in the 1920s. By choosing vests that differed in color or pattern from the suit, men could add visual interest and express their individuality.

Tips for styling odd vests:

Contrast with Suit: Choose a vest in a different color or pattern.
Coordinate with Accessories: Match the vest with a pocket square or tie.
Consider Fabric: Opt for different fabrics to add texture and depth.

8. How Did Trousers, Pants, and Slacks Evolve in the 1920s?

Trousers, pants, and slacks in the 1920s evolved from the slim “drainpipe” style of the Edwardian era towards more comfortable and practical designs.

Key trends in trousers:

Belts Gained Popularity: Became more common, especially in America.
Single Pleats: Introduced in the mid-1920s to enhance drape.
Modest Cuffs: Typically between one and one and a half inches.
Tapered Legs: Legs were still tapered but slightly wider at the bottom.

These changes reflected a balance between style and comfort.

8.1. What Was the Significance of Single Pleats in 1920s Trousers?

Single pleats in 1920s trousers were introduced to improve the drape and appearance of the garment. According to tailors, pleats helped maintain a sharp crease and enhance the overall silhouette.

Benefits of single pleats:

Improved Drape: Enhanced the way the trousers hung and moved.
Maintained Crease: Kept the crease sharper for longer.
Added Comfort: Allowed for greater ease of movement.

8.2. What Were “Oxford Bags” and How Did They Influence 1920s Style?

“Oxford bags” were excessively wide trousers worn by students at the University of Oxford, starting in the mid-1920s. While extreme examples existed, typical Oxford bags were around 23 inches wide.

Impact of Oxford bags:

Campus Trend: Popular among university students.
Wide Leg Design: Characterized by their exaggerated width.
Extended Influence: The trend continued into the 1940s and 1950s.

9. What Types of Shoes Were Popular for Men in the 1920s?

Footwear in the 1920s included oxfords, brogues, and spectators. Boots became slightly less popular as streets improved and dress shoes became more practical.

Popular shoe styles:

Oxfords: A classic choice for formal wear.
Brogues: Offered a more decorative and casual option.
Spectators: Two-tone shoes that added a stylish touch.
Chuck Taylors: Introduced as basketball shoes.

9.1. What Role Did Two-Tone Shoes Play in 1920s Men’s Fashion?

Two-tone shoes, also known as spectators, added a distinctive and stylish element to 1920s men’s fashion. According to shoe historians, these shoes were more popular then than they are today, offering a unique and eye-catching look.

Characteristics of two-tone shoes:

Contrasting Colors: Typically featured two different colors, such as black and white or brown and white.
Stylish Accent: Added a touch of personality and flair to outfits.
Versatile Wear: Could be worn for both formal and semi-formal occasions.

Two-tone shoes

9.2. Why Were “Chuck Taylors” Originally Designed for Basketball?

“Chuck Taylors,” or Converse All-Stars, were originally designed for basketball in the 1920s to provide better ankle support and prevent skidding. According to Converse, the design focused on flexibility and traction for athletic performance.

Key features of Chuck Taylors:

Ankle Support: Provided stability for basketball players.
Rubber Sole: Offered traction on the court.
Sport-Specific Design: Designed for athletic use rather than everyday wear.

10. What Accessories Were Essential for Men in the 1920s?

Accessories played a crucial role in completing a 1920s man’s ensemble. Essential accessories included canes, pocket squares, timepieces, and eyewear.

Essential accessories:

Canes: Carried for decorative purposes, reflecting style and status.
Pocket Squares: Silk squares added color and style to suits.
Timepieces: Transitioned from pocket watches to wristwatches.
Eyewear: Celluloid frames made stylish glasses more affordable.

10.1. How Did Canes Evolve from Walking Aids to Fashion Statements in the 1920s?

Canes evolved from practical walking aids to fashion statements in the 1920s, reflecting a shift towards decorative and stylish accessories. According to social historians, canes became symbols of status and sophistication.

Reasons for the transformation:

Decorative Purpose: Carried for aesthetic appeal rather than necessity.
Status Symbol: Reflected wealth and social standing.
Varied Designs: Available in different lengths, materials, and decorations.

Canes were part of a 1920s ensemble

10.2. What Made Silk Pocket Squares a Popular Accessory in the 1920s?

Silk pocket squares gained popularity in the 1920s due to mass manufacturing, which made them more accessible. Previously, only plain white cotton or linen squares were common, but the introduction of printed silk squares added color and style to men’s suits.

Advantages of silk pocket squares:

Mass Manufacturing: Made them affordable for a wider range of men.
Printed Designs: Offered a variety of colors and patterns.
Added Style: Enhanced the overall look of a suit.

10.3. How Did the Wristwatch Gain Popularity Over the Pocket Watch in the 1920s?

The wristwatch gained popularity over the pocket watch in the 1920s as men wore fewer waistcoats, eliminating the natural spot for a pocket watch. The wristwatch became a more practical and convenient alternative.

Reasons for the shift:

Practicality: Easier to wear and access.
Decreased Waistcoat Use: Fewer men wore waistcoats, making pocket watches less convenient.
Technological Advancements: Wristwatches became more reliable and stylish.

10.4. How Did Celluloid Revolutionize Eyewear Affordability in the 1920s?

The invention of celluloid in 1856, and its use in eyewear in the 1920s, revolutionized affordability by allowing the replication of tortoiseshell, ivory, or horn products. This meant that even working-class men could afford stylish glasses.

Benefits of celluloid frames:

Affordability: Made stylish frames accessible to more people.
Versatility: Could replicate expensive materials like tortoiseshell and ivory.
Variety of Styles: Offered a wider range of frame designs.

Celluloid-made Glasses from the 1920s

10.5. How Did Neckwear Styles Evolve in the 1920s?

Neckwear in the 1920s saw the prominence of ties and bow ties, with bow ties becoming slightly larger. Softer shirt collars made it easier to tie ties, leading to a decline in clip-on and pre-tied options.

Changes in neckwear styles:

Larger Bow Ties: Bow ties became more prominent.
Easier Tying: Softer collars simplified tie-tying.
Bold Designs: Ties featured bold colors and patterns.
Regimental Ties: Became popular due to a sense of belonging after World War I.

11. What Were the Key Trends in 1920s Black Tie and Formal Wear?

Formal wear in the 1920s included morning wear for daytime events and white tie and black tie for evening occasions. While morning wear declined in popularity, black tie became more common.

Trends in formal wear:

Declining Morning Wear: Worn primarily for special events.
Popular Black Tie: Increasingly favored for evening events.
White Tie for Galas: Reserved for the most formal occasions.

11.1. How Did Morning Wear Evolve in the 1920s?

By 1920, the rules for morning wear were well-established, but it declined in popularity. Morning coats sometimes had two or three buttons, with striped pants becoming firmly established.

Changes in morning wear:

Decline in Popularity: Worn less frequently than in previous decades.
One or Two-Button Coats: Replaced the two or three-button styles.
Striped Pants: Solidified as the standard choice.

11.2. What Were the Distinctions Between Black Tie and White Tie in the 1920s?

In the 1920s, white tie was reserved for galas, dinners, and special occasions, while black tie was more popular for less formal evening events. The black tie ensemble sometimes included a stiff evening shirt previously worn with white tie.

Differences between black tie and white tie:

White Tie: Reserved for the most formal events.
Black Tie: More versatile and popular for evening wear.
Shirt Styles: Black tie sometimes featured a stiff evening shirt.

12. How Did Casual Menswear Emerge in the 1920s?

While formal suits remained essential, the 1920s saw a significant shift towards more relaxed and comfortable casual attire. This transformation influenced various aspects of men’s fashion.

Key trends in casual menswear:

Knitwear: Sweaters became stylish and practical.
Sportswear: Gained popularity due to increased leisure activities.
Automobile Influence: Practical clothing for driving became fashionable.
Swimwear: Bathing suits and terry cloth robes became popular for seaside leisure.

12.1. How Did Knitwear Gain Prominence in 1920s Casual Fashion?

Sweaters became a stylish and practical favorite in the 1920s, with silhouettes gravitating towards V-neck pullovers and cardigans. Some designs featured buttonless, free-form shapes with generous shawl collars.

Factors contributing to knitwear’s rise:

Comfort and Style: Sweaters offered both comfort and style.
Versatile Designs: Included V-neck pullovers, cardigans, and shawl collars.
Relaxed Aesthetic: Marked a departure from stiff formality.

1927 – 1928 knitwear for men

12.2. What Role Did Sportswear Play in Shaping 1920s Casual Style?

The rising popularity of sports and leisure activities significantly influenced men’s casual attire in the 1920s. Golf courses, tennis courts, and boat decks became venues for showcasing comfortable yet stylish sportswear.

Key elements of sportswear:

Popular Activities: Golf, tennis, and boating influenced fashion.
Comfortable Clothing: Included sweaters, pleated trousers, and sporty blazers.
Stylish and Practical: Sportswear balanced fashion with functionality.

12.3. How Did the Automobile Influence Men’s Casual Attire in the 1920s?

The increasing popularity of the automobile also influenced men’s casual attire in the 1920s. Driving required practical clothing, and as more men took to the roads, driving caps, goggles, and duster coats became fashionable accessories.

Automobile-inspired trends:

Practical Clothing: Driving required comfortable and functional attire.
Driving Caps and Goggles: Became fashionable accessories.
Duster Coats: Provided protection from dust and wind.
Modern Lifestyle: Signified a modern, mobile lifestyle.

12.4. How Did Beach Culture Influence Swimwear Trends in the 1920s?

With the rise of beach culture, bathing suits and terry cloth robes became popular for seaside leisure in the 1920s. Men embraced more relaxed fits and vibrant patterns in their swimwear.

Trends in swimwear:

Relaxed Fits: Swimwear became less restrictive.
Vibrant Patterns: Added color and style to beach attire.
Terry Cloth Robes: Provided comfort and coverage.
Comfort and Self-Expression: Swimwear trends reflected a shift towards comfort and individuality.

13. What Made 1920s Men’s Fashion So Appealing?

1920 male fashion maintains a timeless appeal due to its blend of elegance, sophistication, and practicality. Fueled by the cultural revolution of the Jazz Age and Harlem Renaissance, men embraced vibrant colors, patterns, and individuality.

Key factors contributing to its appeal:

Elegance and Sophistication: Suits and formal wear exuded refinement.
Practicality: Casual wear balanced style with comfort.
Cultural Influence: The Jazz Age and Harlem Renaissance inspired creativity.
Individual Expression: Men had more freedom to express their personal style.

14. How Did Fashion Icons Influence 1920s Men’s Style?

Icons like Rudolph Valentino and Douglas Fairbanks Jr. significantly influenced the fashion of the 1920s. Valentino’s sleek suits and dramatic accessories inspired men to add romantic flair to their wardrobes, while Fairbanks’ tailored sportswear encouraged dynamism and confidence.

Influence of fashion icons:

Rudolph Valentino: Inspired romantic flair with sleek suits and accessories.
Douglas Fairbanks Jr.: Encouraged confidence with tailored sportswear.

15. How Can You Recreate a 1920s-Inspired Outfit Today?

Recreating a 1920s-inspired outfit involves combining key elements of the era with modern sensibilities. Here’s how you can capture the essence of 1920s style:

White Shirt: Pair with a darker silk tie featuring a micro pattern.
Tennis Sweater: An off-white tennis sweater with navy details adds a classic touch.
Tweed Jacket: Opt for a bold tweed jacket with stripes in green and yellow.
Flannel Trousers: Choose off-white flannel trousers with pleats.
Leather Shoes: Leather derby shoes with contrasting shoelaces complete the look.
Accessories: Add a flat cap, silk wool pocket square, and orange and blue socks.

16. What Are Some of the Frequently Asked Questions About 1920s Vintage Menswear?

Here are some frequently asked questions about 1920s vintage menswear:

16.1. Why Is 1920s Also Called the Roaring Twenties?

The term “Roaring Twenties” reflects the decade’s excitement, prosperity, and social change. It encompassed not just fashion but also flappers, jazz music, and booming cities.

16.2. What Was the Significance of Art Deco in 1920s Fashion?

Art Deco influenced 1920s fashion with its geometric shapes, bold colors, and luxurious materials. It celebrated modernism, leading to streamlined silhouettes and opulent embellishments.

16.3. Did All Men Wear Suits in the 1920s?

No, while suits were popular, many men wore more casual attire depending on their occupation and lifestyle. Working-class men often wore sturdy trousers and button-up shirts.

16.4. What’s the Difference Between 1920s Suits and Modern Suits?

1920s suits had higher waists and wider lapels, often featuring bolder patterns and textures than today’s more subdued styles.

16.5. Did Men Wear Belts in the 1920s?

Yes, belts became more common, especially in the US, offering a convenient and clean look.

16.6. Did Men Wear Shorts in the 1920s?

Yes, but primarily as sportswear or for very casual settings. These shorts were shorter and looser than modern shorts.

16.7. Where to Buy 1920s Clothes?

You can find 1920s-inspired attire at vintage stores, thrift shops, costume shops, and online retailers like Amazon and Etsy.

By exploring these insights, you can gain a deeper appreciation for the elegance, sophistication, and versatility of 1920 male fashion.

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