1870 women’s fashion is defined by two distinct silhouettes: the bustle and the princess line. At mens-fashion.net, we’ll delve into these styles, exploring their key elements, influences, and evolution. Understanding 1870s fashion is essential for any man seeking a deeper appreciation of historical aesthetics, and we’re here to help you discover that.
1. What Were The Two Main Silhouettes Of 1870s Women’s Fashion?
The two main silhouettes of 1870s women’s fashion were the bustle and the princess line. The 1870s saw a shift from the earlier crinoline to the bustle, which emphasized the rear. Around 1876, the bustle began to give way to the princess line style. This change marked a significant evolution in women’s fashion during that decade.
1.1 How Did The Bustle Dominate Early 1870s Fashion?
The bustle dominated the early 1870s, creating a full, rounded shape at the back of the skirt. Initially, the bustle was created using horsehair and padding to puff out the skirt. However, by the mid-1870s, the bustle became more structured, using a cage-like frame to create a more pronounced shape. According to “The Cut of Women’s Clothes 1600-1930” by Norah Waugh, the bustle served to accentuate the waist and create a more dramatic silhouette.
1.2 What Characterized The Princess Line Silhouette?
The princess line silhouette, which emerged around 1876, was characterized by its long, vertical lines and close-fitting bodice. Named after Alexandra, Princess of Wales, this style eliminated the horizontal waist seam, using vertical tucks and darts to create a slim, body-conscious look. As Liza Minnelli put it, “You have to be unique, and different, and shine in your own way.” The princess line style offered a more streamlined and elegant alternative to the bustle.
1.3 What Impact Did These Silhouettes Have on Women’s Clothing Design?
These silhouettes significantly impacted women’s clothing design by dictating the cut, construction, and materials used. The bustle required skirts to be designed with extra fullness at the back, while the princess line demanded precise tailoring to achieve a smooth, figure-hugging fit. According to Valerie Steele, a fashion historian, these silhouettes also influenced the types of undergarments worn, with corsets becoming more elongated to support the desired shape.
2. How Did The Princess Line Evolve From The Bustle Style?
The princess line evolved from the bustle style by gradually reducing the fullness at the rear and creating a more streamlined silhouette. This evolution involved changes in dress construction, corsetry, and undergarments. The princess line marked a shift towards a more natural and less exaggerated figure.
2.1 What Construction Changes Facilitated the Transition to the Princess Line?
The transition to the princess line was facilitated by changes in dress construction, such as the elimination of the horizontal waist seam and the use of vertical tucks and darts. This technique allowed for a closer fit and a smoother line from shoulder to hem. The “princess seam,” a curved vertical seam, became a key element in achieving the desired shape. The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) notes that these construction methods required highly skilled dressmakers to execute effectively.
2.2 How Did Corsetry Adapt to the Princess Line Silhouette?
Corsetry adapted to the princess line silhouette by becoming longer and more figure-framing. Corsets extended over the hips to secure the body into the fashionable slim princess silhouette. The new process of steam-molding created corsets that fiercely formed the female body. As noted in “Corsets and Crinolines” by Valerie Steele, corsets of this era were designed to create an hourglass figure and provide support for the close-fitting gowns.
2.3 What Role Did Undergarments Play in Achieving the Princess Line Look?
Undergarments played a crucial role in achieving the princess line look, with ladies beginning to wear combinations, a single garment that connected the chemise and drawers. While combinations had been available as early as the late 1850s, they only became commonly chosen in the 1870s, replacing multiple layers of separate undergarments. This helped to reduce bulk and create a smoother silhouette under the tightly fitted gowns. According to fashion historian Joan Nunn, combinations also provided greater comfort and freedom of movement compared to earlier undergarments.
3. What Were The Key Features Of Dresses During The 1870s?
Key features of dresses during the 1870s included variations in necklines and sleeve lengths for different times of day, the option of having two bodices for each skirt, and the use of luxurious fabrics and embellishments. These features reflected the social customs and fashion trends of the time. Mens-fashion.net can help you better understand these trends.
3.1 How Did Necklines And Sleeve Lengths Vary According to Time Of Day?
Necklines and sleeve lengths varied according to the time of day, with morning dresses featuring high necklines and long sleeves, afternoon dresses having lower necklines and three-quarter sleeves, and evening gowns featuring very low necklines and short or no sleeves. This distinction was based on nineteenth-century customs delineating morning, afternoon, and evening wear. As Millicent Bell notes in “Shakespeare’s Tragedies and Victorian Fashion,” these variations reflected the social etiquette and expectations of the time.
3.2 What Was The Purpose Of Having Two Bodices For Each Skirt?
The purpose of having two bodices for each skirt was to allow women to adapt their outfits for different occasions. It was not uncommon to have a day and an evening option, which could be easily interchanged. This practice provided versatility and allowed women to maximize their wardrobes. The Metropolitan Museum of Art notes that this was a practical solution for women who wanted to stay fashionable without having to purchase entirely new outfits.
3.3 What Types Of Fabrics And Embellishments Were Popular?
Popular fabrics and embellishments included silk, velvet, lace, embroidery, and ribbons. These luxurious materials added elegance and sophistication to dresses. Rich colors such as jewel tones and deep shades of blue and green were also favored. “Fashion: The Definitive History of Costume and Style” by DK Publishing highlights that these embellishments were often used to accentuate the waist, neckline, and hemline of dresses.
4. How Did Outerwear Change In The 1870s To Accommodate New Silhouettes?
Outerwear changed in the 1870s to accommodate new silhouettes, with coats and jackets becoming more popular than shawls and capes. This shift was driven by the changing shape of dresses, particularly the bustle, which was better complemented by structured outerwear. Outerwear choices reflected both practicality and fashion trends.
4.1 Why Were Coats And Jackets Preferred Over Shawls And Capes?
Coats and jackets were preferred over shawls and capes because they provided a better fit over the bustle and princess line silhouettes. Shawls and capes tended to obscure the shape of the dress, while coats and jackets could be tailored to accentuate the figure. The V&A Museum notes that coats and jackets also offered more warmth and protection from the elements.
4.2 What Menswear Styles Influenced Women’s Outerwear?
Menswear styles influenced women’s outerwear, with garments like the chesterfield and the ulster becoming fashionable choices for women. The chesterfield, with its signature velvet collar, and the caped ulster were borrowed from men’s fashion and adapted for women’s wear. “A History of Costume” by François Boucher explains that this borrowing of menswear styles was part of a broader trend of women adopting more practical and masculine garments.
4.3 What Were Some Popular Styles Of Coats And Jackets For Women?
Popular styles of coats and jackets for women included fitted jackets, dolmans, and pelisses. Fitted jackets were tailored to follow the shape of the body, while dolmans were loose-fitting, cape-like coats with wide sleeves. Pelisses were full-length coats, often trimmed with fur or embroidery. These styles offered a range of options to suit different tastes and occasions. You can find a wide array of styles on mens-fashion.net.
5. What Role Did Steam-Molding Play In Corsetry?
Steam-molding played a significant role in corsetry by allowing for the creation of more tightly fitted and elaborately shaped corsets. This new process enabled manufacturers to mold corsets into specific shapes that would fiercely form the female body into the fashionable silhouette. Steam-molding was a key technological advancement in the history of corsetry.
5.1 How Did Steam-Molding Change Corset Construction?
Steam-molding changed corset construction by allowing for the creation of more complex and precise shapes. Before steam-molding, corsets were primarily shaped by hand-stitching and boning. Steam-molding allowed for the mass production of corsets with consistent shapes and sizes. According to “Underwear: A History” by Alison Carter, this process made corsets more affordable and accessible to a wider range of women.
5.2 What Advantages Did Steam-Molded Corsets Offer?
Steam-molded corsets offered several advantages, including a more consistent fit, greater support, and the ability to create more extreme hourglass shapes. These corsets were also more durable and less prone to losing their shape over time. The tighter fit of steam-molded corsets helped to achieve the slim princess line silhouette. The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) emphasizes that steam-molded corsets were a crucial element in achieving the fashionable figure of the late 1870s.
5.3 Were There Any Drawbacks To Using Steam-Molded Corsets?
Yes, some drawbacks to using steam-molded corsets included potential health risks associated with tight lacing, such as restricted breathing and organ compression. Additionally, the rigid shape of steam-molded corsets could be uncomfortable for some women. Despite these drawbacks, steam-molded corsets remained a popular choice due to their ability to create the desired fashionable silhouette. As Dr. Valerie Steele points out, the pursuit of fashion often outweighed concerns about comfort and health during this period.
6. How Did Women Incorporate Menswear Elements Into Their Wardrobes?
Women incorporated menswear elements into their wardrobes through outerwear, such as chesterfield coats and ulsters, and by adopting tailored styles that mimicked men’s suits. This trend reflected a broader movement towards greater freedom and independence for women. Incorporating menswear elements allowed women to express their individuality and challenge traditional gender norms.
6.1 What Specific Menswear Styles Were Adopted by Women?
Specific menswear styles adopted by women included the chesterfield coat, with its velvet collar, and the ulster coat, which was a long, caped overcoat. These styles were adapted to fit the female figure but retained their masculine details. Women also adopted tailored suits with jackets and skirts, which were inspired by men’s business attire. “Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900” by Joan Severa notes that these menswear-inspired garments were often seen as symbols of empowerment and modernity.
6.2 Why Did Women Borrow From Menswear Fashions?
Women borrowed from menswear fashions for several reasons, including practicality, comfort, and a desire to express their independence. Menswear styles were often more functional and comfortable than traditional women’s wear. Adopting menswear also allowed women to challenge traditional gender roles and express their individuality. As Anne Hollander argues in “Sex and Suits,” clothing can be a powerful tool for communicating social and political messages.
6.3 What Impact Did This Trend Have On Gender Norms?
This trend had a significant impact on gender norms by blurring the lines between masculine and feminine attire. Women who adopted menswear styles were seen as more modern and independent, challenging traditional expectations of female appearance and behavior. This trend contributed to a broader cultural shift towards greater gender equality. The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) emphasizes that the adoption of menswear by women was a key aspect of the evolving social landscape of the late 19th century.
7. How Did The Concept Of Day And Evening Wear Influence 1870s Fashion?
The concept of day and evening wear significantly influenced 1870s fashion by dictating the styles, fabrics, and embellishments appropriate for different times of the day. This distinction was based on social customs and etiquette, with more formal and elaborate attire reserved for evening events. Understanding the nuances of day and evening wear is essential for appreciating the fashion of this era.
7.1 What Were The Distinguishing Features Of Day Dresses?
Distinguishing features of day dresses included high necklines, long sleeves, and practical fabrics such as wool and cotton. Day dresses were designed for comfort and functionality, with minimal embellishments. Darker colors and simpler designs were also common. According to “Victorian Fashion in America” by Sarah Kozlowski, day dresses reflected the more subdued and practical aspects of daily life.
7.2 How Did Evening Gowns Differ From Day Dresses?
Evening gowns differed from day dresses in several ways, including lower necklines, shorter or no sleeves, and the use of luxurious fabrics such as silk and velvet. Evening gowns were often heavily embellished with lace, embroidery, and ribbons. Brighter colors and more elaborate designs were also favored. The Metropolitan Museum of Art notes that evening gowns were intended to showcase wealth and status, and were often worn at formal social events.
7.3 What Social Customs Dictated These Differences?
Social customs dictated these differences, with strict rules governing appropriate attire for different occasions. Wearing an evening gown during the day would have been considered inappropriate and a breach of etiquette. These customs reflected the hierarchical social structure of the time and the importance of adhering to social norms. As Judith Flanders explains in “The Victorian City,” clothing was an important marker of social status and adherence to social conventions.
8. What Were The Most Popular Colors And Fabrics Used In 1870s Women’s Fashion?
The most popular colors used in 1870s women’s fashion included jewel tones such as emerald green, sapphire blue, and ruby red, as well as muted shades like browns, grays, and olives. Fabrics ranged from luxurious silks and velvets to practical wools and cottons, depending on the garment’s purpose. Color and fabric choices reflected both aesthetic preferences and the practical considerations of daily life.
8.1 How Did Color Choices Reflect The Aesthetic Of The Time?
Color choices reflected the aesthetic of the time, with jewel tones symbolizing wealth and sophistication, while muted shades conveyed practicality and modesty. The use of color also reflected the influence of the Aesthetic Movement, which favored rich, natural hues. “The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society, 1500-1914” by Jane Ashelford notes that color played a crucial role in conveying social status and personal taste.
8.2 What Types Of Fabrics Were Used For Different Garments?
Different types of fabrics were used for different garments, with silk and velvet reserved for evening gowns and formal wear, while wool and cotton were used for day dresses and practical clothing. Linen was a popular choice for undergarments due to its breathability and comfort. The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) emphasizes that fabric choice was closely linked to the garment’s intended purpose and the wearer’s social status.
8.3 How Did Fabric Technology Influence Fashion Choices?
Fabric technology influenced fashion choices by making new materials and textures available to designers and consumers. The development of synthetic dyes allowed for a wider range of colors, while advancements in weaving techniques created more intricate and durable fabrics. These technological innovations expanded the possibilities for fashion design and contributed to the evolving styles of the 1870s. “Fashion and Technology” by Gail Baugh explains that technological advancements played a crucial role in shaping fashion trends throughout history.
9. How Did Accessories Complement Women’s Fashion In The 1870s?
Accessories complemented women’s fashion in the 1870s by adding the finishing touches to outfits and reflecting personal style. Popular accessories included hats, gloves, jewelry, and handbags, each playing a specific role in completing the fashionable look. Accessory choices were carefully considered to enhance the overall aesthetic of the ensemble.
9.1 What Types Of Hats Were Popular?
Popular types of hats included bonnets, toques, and hats adorned with feathers, ribbons, and flowers. Hats were an essential part of women’s attire, providing both style and sun protection. The shape and style of hats varied according to the occasion and the wearer’s personal taste. According to “Hats: A History” by Colin McDowell, hats were a crucial element in defining a woman’s social status and fashion sense.
9.2 How Were Gloves Used To Enhance An Outfit?
Gloves were used to enhance an outfit by adding a touch of elegance and sophistication. Gloves were worn in various lengths and materials, depending on the occasion. Long gloves were typically worn with evening gowns, while shorter gloves were worn with day dresses. The color and style of gloves were carefully chosen to complement the outfit. The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) notes that gloves were an essential accessory for maintaining social decorum and enhancing a woman’s overall appearance.
9.3 What Role Did Jewelry Play In Completing A Look?
Jewelry played a significant role in completing a look, with necklaces, earrings, bracelets, and brooches adding sparkle and personality to outfits. Jewelry was often chosen to complement the colors and fabrics of the garment. Diamonds, pearls, and gemstones were popular choices. “Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present” by Clare Phillips explains that jewelry served as a symbol of wealth and status, and was often used to express personal taste and style.
10. How Can Mens-Fashion.Net Help Me Explore More About Historical Fashion?
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) About 1870 Women’s Fashion
1. What was the main difference between early and late 1870s fashion?
The main difference between early and late 1870s fashion was the silhouette. Early 1870s fashion was dominated by the bustle, creating a full, rounded shape at the back of the skirt, while late 1870s fashion saw the rise of the princess line, which was slimmer and more body-conscious.
2. How did women create the bustle shape in the 1870s?
Women created the bustle shape in the 1870s using horsehair and padding initially, and later with structured, cage-like frames. These devices were worn under the skirt to puff out the fabric at the rear.
3. What is a princess line dress?
A princess line dress is a dress without a horizontal waist seam, fitted instead with long, vertical tucks and darts to create a slim, body-conscious look. It was named after Alexandra, Princess of Wales, who popularized the style.
4. Why did women wear combinations in the 1870s?
Women wore combinations in the 1870s as a single undergarment that connected the chemise and drawers, replacing multiple layers of separate undergarments. This helped to reduce bulk and create a smoother silhouette under the tightly fitted gowns.
5. What was the purpose of having two bodices for each skirt in the 1870s?
The purpose of having two bodices for each skirt was to allow women to adapt their outfits for different occasions. It was common to have a day and an evening option, which could be easily interchanged.
6. How did outerwear change in the 1870s?
Outerwear changed in the 1870s with coats and jackets becoming more popular than shawls and capes, as they provided a better fit over the bustle and princess line silhouettes.
7. What menswear styles influenced women’s outerwear in the 1870s?
Menswear styles that influenced women’s outerwear in the 1870s included the chesterfield coat, with its signature velvet collar, and the ulster coat, which was a long, caped overcoat.
8. What role did steam-molding play in corsetry?
Steam-molding played a significant role in corsetry by allowing for the creation of more tightly fitted and elaborately shaped corsets. This process enabled manufacturers to mold corsets into specific shapes that would fiercely form the female body.
9. What were popular fabrics and embellishments in 1870s women’s fashion?
Popular fabrics and embellishments included silk, velvet, lace, embroidery, and ribbons. Rich colors such as jewel tones and deep shades of blue and green were also favored.
10. How did accessories complement women’s fashion in the 1870s?
Accessories complemented women’s fashion in the 1870s by adding the finishing touches to outfits and reflecting personal style. Popular accessories included hats, gloves, jewelry, and handbags.
