The 1300s fashion era was a transformative period, especially for women of the upper classes. At mens-fashion.net, we explore the key garments, styles, and influences that defined women’s fashion during this time. We’ll navigate the intricate layers, evolving silhouettes, and luxurious fabrics that characterized the wardrobes of medieval women. Get ready to discover the elegance and opulence of 14th-century fashion!
1. What Undergarments Did Women Wear in the 1300s?
The innermost layer for women in the 1300s was typically a chemise, shift, or smock made of linen or wool. According to research, linen was preferred for its breathability and comfort against the skin, while wool provided warmth during colder months. These undergarments varied in fit, with some being loosely draped and others more form-fitting. There are mentions of a “breast girdle” or “breast band,” possibly an early form of the modern bra.
Women also wore hose or stockings, which generally reached to the knee. These stockings were essential for warmth and modesty, often held up by garters.
Evolution of Undergarments
The evolution of undergarments during the 1300s reflects a shift towards more tailored and fitted silhouettes. While early medieval undergarments were simpler and looser, the mid-1300s saw a move towards garments that accentuated the figure, mirroring the trends in outer layers. This transition highlights the growing importance of shape and form in fashion, even in the unseen layers.
Fabrics and Materials
Linen and wool were the primary materials for undergarments due to their availability and practicality. Linen, derived from the flax plant, was valued for its smooth texture and breathability, making it ideal for warmer conditions. Wool, sourced from sheep, provided insulation and warmth, essential for colder climates. The choice of fabric depended on the season, climate, and the wearer’s social status, with finer linens being more luxurious.
Significance of Undergarments
Undergarments in the 1300s served not only practical purposes but also social ones. They provided a foundation for outer garments, ensuring they draped correctly and maintained their shape. Additionally, undergarments protected the more expensive outer layers from body oils and sweat, prolonging their lifespan. The quality and fit of undergarments also reflected the wearer’s attention to detail and overall appearance.
2. What Is a Cote and How Was It Worn in the 1300s?
The cote, also known as a cotta, tunic, or kirtle, was a fundamental garment for women in the 1300s. The length of the cote depended on the wearer’s social status and wealth. It was worn over the shift and often under a surcote, acting as a versatile middle layer. Initially loose, the cote became more fitted around the mid-1300s to match the evolving silhouette of outer layers.
Fitted kirtles featured full skirts achieved by adding triangular gores to widen the hem without adding bulk at the waist. Sleeves were either fitted throughout or fitted from the elbow down to the wrist, sometimes extending to the knuckles. From the mid-1300s, cotes were often buttoned or laced, either in the front or on the sides, leading to the emergence of the cotehardie.
Evolution of the Cote
The cote underwent significant transformations throughout the 1300s. In the early medieval period, it was a simple, loose-fitting garment. However, as fashion evolved, the cote became more tailored, reflecting a growing emphasis on form and fit. The introduction of lacing and buttons allowed for a more customized and flattering silhouette.
Variations in Style
There were several variations of the cote, each serving different purposes and reflecting different levels of formality. Some cotes featured wide necklines, while others had higher, more modest cuts. The sleeves also varied, ranging from tight-fitting to loose and flowing. These variations allowed women to adapt their attire to different occasions and personal preferences.
Social Significance
The cote’s length, fabric, and embellishments indicated a woman’s social standing. Wealthier women wore cotes made of finer materials, such as silk or imported wool, and adorned them with intricate embroidery and detailing. The length of the cote also signified status, with longer cotes reserved for formal occasions and higher-ranking individuals.
3. What Is a Surcote and How Did Styles Vary During the 1300s?
The surcote, an outer layer worn over the cote, evolved significantly throughout the 1300s. It appeared in various forms, ranging from simple tunics and cyclas to more complex pelices over the houppelande and, occasionally, full robes.
Early Surcotes
In the early part of the century, surcotes were often loose tunics worn over the cote. These early surcotes were relatively simple, providing an additional layer of warmth and modesty.
Cyclas
The cyclas began as a rectangular piece of cloth with a hole for the head. Over time, the sides were sewn together to create a long, sleeveless tunic. Initially, the armholes extended from the shoulder to the waistline, showcasing the cote underneath. Some cyclas designs featured shorter armholes, while others were rounded to reveal more of the cote. This style eventually led to the development of the fur-trimmed pellote/pelice or surcote ouverte.
Later Surcotes
As the century progressed, surcotes became more elaborate and fitted. Styles such as the sideless surcote, or pellote/pelice, gained popularity. These garments were sleeveless and featured large armholes trimmed with fur, becoming a symbol of rank among noble women.
Social Significance
The surcote was a key indicator of social status and fashion sensibility. The materials, embellishments, and style of the surcote reflected the wearer’s wealth and position. Elaborate surcotes made of luxurious fabrics and adorned with fur were reserved for the nobility, while simpler versions were worn by those of lower social standing.
A loose tunic worn over a very long cote, circa 1300-1340.
4. What Defined the Cyclas in 1300s Fashion?
The cyclas was a type of surcote popular among noble women, evolving from a simple rectangular cloth with a head opening into a more refined, sleeveless tunic. According to the Courtauld Institute of Art, the cyclas was a key garment in demonstrating status and fashion awareness. Its design allowed for the display of the cote underneath, creating opportunities for contrasting colors and fabrics.
Evolution of the Cyclas
Initially, the cyclas had large armholes that extended from the shoulder to the waistline. Over time, these armholes became more rounded, showcasing more of the cote beneath. This evolution eventually led to the development of the pellote or surcote ouverte, characterized by fur trimming and a more fitted design.
Materials and Embellishments
Cyclas were made from a variety of materials, including wool, linen, and silk, depending on the wearer’s social status and the occasion. They were often embellished with embroidery, decorative stitching, and contrasting linings to enhance their visual appeal. The choice of colors and fabrics allowed women to express their personal style and showcase their wealth.
Social Context
The cyclas held significant social importance, serving as a marker of nobility and fashion consciousness. Its unique design and the opportunity to display contrasting layers made it a popular choice among fashionable women. The cyclas reflected the evolving trends of the 1300s, characterized by a growing emphasis on elegance and sophistication.
5. What Is a Cotehardie and What Are Its Key Features?
The cotehardie was a unisex garment popular from the 1300s to the 1500s, tailored to fit the torso and arms. Women’s versions of the cotehardie were tight-fitting outer garments that often trailed on the floor. Key features included a row of buttons down the front and fitted sleeves from the elbow to the wrist.
Design and Fit
The cotehardie was designed to be close-fitting, accentuating the wearer’s figure. Buttons allowed for a snug fit and added decorative detail. The neckline tended to be wide and low, further emphasizing the fashionable silhouette.
Sleeves and Tippets
The sleeves of the cotehardie were often ornamented, with wider sleeves or streamers known as tippets added for extra flair. These tippets could be purely decorative or serve a functional purpose, such as being tied around the arms.
Social Significance
The cotehardie was a fashionable garment worn by both men and women, although the styles differed. For women, it was a symbol of elegance and sophistication, reflecting the trends of the late 1300s. The tight fit and decorative elements showcased the wearer’s attention to detail and sense of style.
6. What Is a Sideless Surcote and Why Was It Called “Hell’s Gate?”
The sideless surcote, also known as a pellote/pelice, plackard, or surcote ouverte, was a sleeveless outer garment popular from the mid-1300s to the 1500s. It was a symbol of rank among noble women, featuring very large armholes trimmed with fur. The term “hell’s gates” was likely used because the garment revealed the shape of the woman underneath, considered provocative at the time.
Design and Materials
The sideless surcote was designed to be worn over a cote, with the large armholes displaying the underlying garment. The fur trim added a luxurious touch and further emphasized the wearer’s social status.
Social Significance
This garment was exclusively worn by noble women, signifying their wealth and status. The revealing nature of the sideless surcote, which accentuated the figure, made it a bold fashion statement. The name “hell’s gates” reflects the controversial and attention-grabbing nature of the garment.
Evolution of the Style
The sideless surcote evolved from the cyclas, with the armholes becoming increasingly large and decorative. This evolution reflects the changing fashion sensibilities of the time, with a greater emphasis on displaying wealth and status through clothing.
A rounded red cyclas or sideless surcote over a red cote, circa 1325-1340.
7. What Is a Houppelande and When Was It Popular?
The houppelande, also known as a pellanda, was a sleeved, front-closing robe worn by both sexes, introduced in the 1360s and popular until the 1430s. For women, it was always full-length, while men sometimes wore shorter versions. In northern regions, it was referred to as a pallanda.
Design and Features
The houppelande was characterized by its voluminous sleeves and full-length design. It was typically made of rich fabrics and often featured elaborate embellishments, such as dagging (decorative edging) on the sleeves.
Social Significance
The houppelande was a symbol of status and wealth, worn by both men and women of the upper classes. Its luxurious materials and elaborate design reflected the wearer’s social standing and fashion sensibility. The garment’s popularity coincided with a period of economic prosperity and cultural exchange, leading to more extravagant and expressive fashion trends.
Variations in Style
While the basic design of the houppelande remained consistent, there were variations in style and embellishments. Sleeves could be wide and flowing or fitted at the wrist, and necklines could be high or low. The houppelande was often belted, accentuating the waist and adding to its overall elegance.
8. What Were Robes Like in the Late 1300s?
In the late 1300s, women wore robes (kåbe) that were belted just under the breasts. These robes were characterized by a generous amount of fabric, creating numerous folds, and large, voluminous sleeves. According to fashion historians, this style emphasized the hourglass figure, which was highly fashionable at the time.
Design and Materials
The robes of the late 1300s were made of luxurious fabrics such as silk, velvet, and wool, often adorned with intricate embroidery and embellishments. The belt, typically knotted under the breasts, cinched the waist and accentuated the flowing fabric of the robe.
Social Significance
These robes were a symbol of wealth and status, worn by women of the upper classes. The elaborate designs and luxurious materials reflected the wearer’s social standing and fashion sensibility. The style of these robes also reflects the changing ideals of beauty, with an emphasis on a curvaceous figure and elegant silhouette.
Variations in Style
While the basic design of the robes remained consistent, there were variations in sleeve styles, necklines, and embellishments. Some robes featured high collars and fitted wrist openings, while others had wide, flowing sleeves. The choice of colors and fabrics also allowed women to express their personal style and showcase their wealth.
9. What Role Did Headwear Play in 1300s Women’s Fashion?
Headwear was an essential element of women’s fashion in the 1300s, reflecting social status, marital status, and regional customs. Various styles of veils, wimples, and headdresses were worn to cover the hair, considered a symbol of beauty and modesty. The specific type of headwear worn often indicated a woman’s social position and adherence to societal norms.
Veils and Wimples
Veils were commonly worn to cover the hair and neck, providing a modest and elegant appearance. Wimples, typically made of linen or cotton, were draped around the neck and chin, often worn in conjunction with a veil. These styles were popular among married women and those of higher social status.
Headdresses
More elaborate headdresses, such as the circlet, coronet, and horned headdress, were worn by noblewomen and those seeking to make a fashion statement. These headdresses were often adorned with jewels, pearls, and precious metals, reflecting the wearer’s wealth and status.
Regional Variations
Headwear styles varied across different regions of Europe, reflecting local customs and traditions. In some areas, women wore tall, conical headdresses, while in others, they favored simpler veils and wimples. These regional variations added to the diversity and richness of 1300s women’s fashion.
Social Significance
Headwear was a crucial indicator of social status and marital status. Married women typically covered their hair, while unmarried women might wear their hair uncovered or adorned with simple headbands. The materials, embellishments, and style of headwear reflected the wearer’s social position and adherence to societal norms.
10. How Did Social Status Influence Fashion Choices in the 1300s?
Social status played a significant role in determining fashion choices during the 1300s. The materials, styles, and embellishments of clothing reflected a person’s position in society, with the wealthy and noble classes able to afford more luxurious and elaborate garments.
Materials and Fabrics
Wealthier individuals had access to finer materials such as silk, velvet, and imported wool, while those of lower social status wore garments made of coarser materials such as linen and homespun wool. The quality and cost of the fabric were clear indicators of social standing.
Styles and Designs
The styles and designs of clothing also reflected social status. Noblewomen wore elaborate gowns with intricate embroidery, fur trimming, and decorative embellishments, while common women wore simpler, more practical garments. The complexity and sophistication of the design were indicative of the wearer’s wealth and status.
Embellishments and Accessories
Accessories such as jewelry, belts, and headwear further emphasized social distinctions. Wealthy individuals adorned themselves with precious metals, gemstones, and luxurious furs, while those of lower social status wore simpler, less expensive accessories.
Sumptuary Laws
Sumptuary laws, which regulated clothing and accessories based on social status, were in effect in many European countries during the 1300s. These laws aimed to maintain social order and prevent individuals from dressing above their station. Violations of sumptuary laws could result in fines, imprisonment, or other penalties.
11. What Colors Were Popular in 1300s Fashion?
The color palette of 1300s fashion was diverse, with certain colors being more prevalent among different social classes and for specific occasions. Rich, vibrant hues were often associated with wealth and status, while more muted tones were common among the lower classes.
Royal Blue
Royal blue, derived from the expensive dye lapis lazuli, was highly prized and associated with royalty and nobility. Garments dyed in this color were a symbol of wealth and power.
Crimson Red
Crimson red, obtained from kermes insects, was another expensive and highly valued color. It was often worn by the upper classes and associated with prestige and authority.
Green
Green was a popular color among all social classes, symbolizing nature, fertility, and prosperity. It was derived from various plant-based dyes, making it more accessible than royal blue or crimson red.
Yellow
Yellow was associated with sunshine, warmth, and happiness. It was a versatile color that could be achieved using various natural dyes, making it accessible to a wide range of social classes.
Muted Tones
Muted tones such as brown, gray, and beige were common among the lower classes, reflecting the availability of inexpensive dyes and the practicality of concealing dirt and wear.
12. How Did Fashion in the 1300s Reflect the Values of the Time?
Fashion in the 1300s reflected the values and beliefs of the time, including social hierarchy, religious piety, and courtly love. Clothing served as a visual representation of a person’s social status, religious devotion, and adherence to societal norms.
Social Hierarchy
As discussed earlier, clothing was a clear indicator of social status, with the wealthy and noble classes able to afford more luxurious and elaborate garments. The materials, styles, and embellishments of clothing reflected a person’s position in society, reinforcing the existing social hierarchy.
Religious Piety
Religious piety was a central value in the 1300s, and clothing often reflected this devotion. Modest necklines, long sleeves, and the use of veils and wimples demonstrated a commitment to religious modesty and humility.
Courtly Love
The concept of courtly love, which emphasized idealized romance and chivalry, influenced fashion trends during the 1300s. Elegant gowns, flowing sleeves, and decorative embellishments reflected the romantic ideals of the time.
Practicality and Functionality
While fashion was often used to express social status and cultural values, practicality and functionality were also important considerations. Garments were designed to provide warmth, protection, and ease of movement, reflecting the demands of everyday life.
13. How Can You Incorporate 1300s Fashion Elements Into Modern Outfits?
While recreating 1300s fashion might seem daunting, incorporating elements of the era into modern outfits can add a touch of historical elegance and sophistication.
Flowing Silhouettes
Choose modern garments with flowing silhouettes that echo the draped fabrics of the 1300s. Maxi dresses, A-line skirts, and wide-legged pants can capture the essence of medieval fashion.
Luxurious Fabrics
Incorporate luxurious fabrics such as velvet, silk, and linen into your wardrobe to emulate the richness of 1300s textiles. These materials add a touch of opulence and elegance to any outfit.
Embellishments and Details
Add embellishments such as embroidery, lace, and beading to your garments to capture the decorative details of medieval fashion. These elements can transform a simple outfit into a statement piece.
Belts and Accessories
Use belts to cinch your waist and create an hourglass silhouette, reminiscent of the belted robes of the late 1300s. Add accessories such as layered necklaces, brooches, and scarves to complete the look.
Color Palette
Draw inspiration from the color palette of the 1300s by incorporating rich hues such as royal blue, crimson red, and emerald green into your wardrobe. These colors evoke the elegance and sophistication of medieval fashion.
Interested in exploring more historical fashion trends and style tips? Visit mens-fashion.net to discover a wealth of information and inspiration.
FAQ About 1300s Fashion
1. What was the main fabric used in 1300s fashion?
Linen and wool were the most common fabrics. Linen was used for undergarments due to its breathability, while wool was used for outer garments for warmth.
2. How did women’s fashion differ from men’s in the 1300s?
Women’s fashion emphasized long, flowing gowns and elaborate headwear, while men’s fashion featured shorter tunics, hose, and practical outerwear.
3. What role did religion play in 1300s fashion?
Religion influenced fashion by promoting modesty and humility. Women often wore veils and wimples to cover their hair and necks, reflecting religious piety.
4. How did the Black Death affect fashion in the 1300s?
The Black Death led to social and economic upheaval, influencing fashion trends. Some historians argue that the simpler styles that emerged after the plague reflected a shift towards practicality and austerity.
5. What were some common accessories in 1300s fashion?
Common accessories included belts, purses, gloves, and jewelry. These items added practical and decorative elements to outfits.
6. How did the Crusades influence fashion in the 1300s?
The Crusades exposed Europeans to new fabrics, colors, and styles from the Middle East, influencing fashion trends and leading to the adoption of exotic materials and designs.
7. What were the key characteristics of the cotehardie?
The cotehardie was a close-fitting garment with a row of buttons down the front and fitted sleeves. It was popular among both men and women.
8. How did the climate affect fashion choices in the 1300s?
Climate played a significant role in fashion choices, with warmer regions favoring lighter fabrics and looser styles, while colder regions required heavier fabrics and layered garments.
9. What were some popular hairstyles in the 1300s?
Women often wore their hair long and braided, sometimes adorned with headbands, veils, or elaborate headdresses. Men typically wore their hair short and styled in simple cuts.
10. How can modern designers draw inspiration from 1300s fashion?
Modern designers can draw inspiration from the flowing silhouettes, luxurious fabrics, and decorative embellishments of 1300s fashion, incorporating these elements into contemporary designs.
Ready to elevate your style with inspiration from the 1300s? Explore mens-fashion.net today and discover a wealth of fashion tips, historical insights, and the latest trends in men’s fashion! Contact us at +1 (212) 217-5800 or visit our address at 227 W 27th St, New York, NY 10001, United States.
