What Did Fashion In The 12th Century Look Like?

12th Century Fashion offers a captivating glimpse into the sartorial choices of the medieval era. At mens-fashion.net, we provide you with an in-depth look at the clothing trends, styles, and influences that shaped men’s fashion during this period. Explore the garments, fabrics, and accessories that defined the era’s aristocratic elegance and practical workwear through our historical analysis and style guides. Discover how to incorporate elements of medieval aesthetics into your modern wardrobe.

1. What Were The Defining Characteristics Of 12th Century Fashion?

12th-century fashion was characterized by its gradual shift from loose, flowing garments to more tailored and form-fitting silhouettes. During this era, distinctions in social class became more pronounced through clothing, with the upper classes adopting elaborate and luxurious styles.

Key aspects of 12th-century fashion include:

Layers: Men typically wore multiple layers of clothing, including an under tunic (chemise), an over tunic (cote), and often an additional outer layer like a surcoat or mantle.
Tunics: The tunic was the most common garment, varying in length from knee-length for working men to ankle-length for the nobility. Tunics were typically made of wool or linen, depending on the wearer’s social status.
Belts: Belts were essential for cinching the tunic at the waist, providing shape and functionality. They were often made of leather and could be simple or elaborately decorated.
Hose: Men wore hose (separate leggings) made of wool or linen, which were often tied to the tunic or belt to keep them in place.
Footwear: Common footwear included leather shoes or boots, with styles varying from simple ankle boots to more decorative, pointed shoes for the upper classes.
Headwear: Headwear was an important part of 12th-century attire. Common options included coifs (close-fitting caps), hoods, and various types of hats.
Fabrics: Wool and linen were the primary fabrics, with silk and other luxurious materials reserved for the wealthy.
Colors: Colors were achieved using natural dyes, with common hues including browns, greens, blues, and reds. The wealthy often wore brighter and more vibrant colors.

According to research from the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), the increased use of tailoring in the 12th century reflected a broader trend towards greater social stratification and the desire to visually distinguish oneself through clothing.

2. What Types Of Garments Were Popular In 12th Century Menswear?

12th-century menswear included several distinct garments, each serving different purposes and reflecting the wearer’s social status.

Chemise (Under Tunic): Made of linen, it was worn next to the skin as a base layer. It protected the outer garments from body oils and sweat.
Cote (Over Tunic): Typically made of wool or linen, the cote was the primary garment. Its length and embellishments varied according to social class.
Surcoat: An outer layer worn over the cote, often sleeveless or with long, wide sleeves. Surcoats provided extra warmth and were sometimes decorated with heraldic symbols.
Mantle: A cape-like garment worn for warmth and status. Mantles were often made of wool and could be lined with fur for added luxury.
Hose: Separate leggings made of wool or linen, often tied to the tunic or belt.
Braies: Loose-fitting linen underpants worn by men of all classes.
Coif: A close-fitting cap made of linen, worn to cover the hair and protect it from dirt.
Hood: A versatile head covering that could be worn alone or with a coif.
Belt: An essential accessory for cinching the tunic and carrying items like pouches or knives.

Couple embraising. They both wear long tunics, hers with wider sleeves than his. They both wear a long shirt/cote under it. Hers has long sleeves, while his doesn’t. 1097

Historical sources, such as the Bayeux Tapestry, provide visual evidence of these garments and their prevalence in 12th-century society.

3. How Did Social Status Influence 12th Century Menswear?

Social status was a significant determinant of 12th-century menswear. The materials, colors, and embellishments of a man’s clothing indicated his position in society.

Nobility: The nobility wore garments made of fine wool, silk, and other luxurious materials. Their tunics were often longer, more elaborately decorated, and dyed in vibrant colors. They might also wear fur-lined mantles and decorative belts with ornate buckles.
Knights: Knights wore similar garments to the nobility but often with a more practical focus. Their clothing needed to be functional for riding and fighting. They might wear padded undergarments for protection and durable leather belts.
Merchants: Wealthy merchants could afford better quality fabrics and more fashionable styles. They often wore long tunics and well-made shoes, reflecting their economic status.
Peasants: Peasants wore simple, functional clothing made of coarse wool or linen. Their tunics were shorter, and their colors were typically muted. They wore basic leather shoes or went barefoot.

According to “The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant” by Sarah Thursfield, the cut and construction of garments also reflected social status, with more complex tailoring techniques reserved for the upper classes.

4. What Were The Key Differences Between Early And Late 12th Century Fashion?

12th-century fashion evolved significantly throughout the century, with notable differences between the early and late periods.

Early 12th Century (1100-1150)

Loose Silhouettes: Garments were generally loose-fitting and less tailored, with simple lines and minimal shaping.
Basic Tunics: Tunics were the primary garment, often reaching the knees or ankles, with little variation in style.
Simple Belts: Belts were functional and unadorned, typically made of plain leather.
Neutral Colors: Colors were primarily muted, with browns, grays, and undyed wool being common.

Late 12th Century (1150-1200)

More Tailored Fits: Garments became more form-fitting, with an increased emphasis on tailoring and shaping.
Varied Styles: New styles emerged, such as the bliaut, a more fitted tunic with distinctive flared sleeves.
Decorative Belts: Belts became more decorative, with ornate buckles and embellishments.
Brighter Colors: The use of brighter colors increased, especially among the upper classes, with dyes like red, blue, and green becoming more popular.
Elaborate Sleeves: Sleeves became a focal point of fashion, with styles ranging from tight-fitting to wide, flaring “trumpet” sleeves.

These changes reflect a broader trend towards greater luxury and refinement in fashion, driven by economic growth and increased trade.

5. How Did Religious Beliefs Influence 12th Century Fashion?

Religious beliefs profoundly influenced 12th-century fashion, shaping attitudes towards modesty, morality, and the display of wealth.

Modesty: The Church promoted modesty in dress, discouraging excessive displays of wealth and ostentation. Garments were typically long and covering, minimizing exposure of the body.
Simplicity: Simplicity was valued, particularly among monastic orders and devout individuals. Monks and nuns wore plain, unadorned garments as a sign of their commitment to spiritual life.
Symbolism: Clothing sometimes carried religious symbolism. For example, certain colors were associated with specific religious figures or events. Blue was often associated with the Virgin Mary, while purple was associated with royalty and divinity.
Penitential Garments: Individuals performing penance might wear rough, uncomfortable clothing as a sign of humility and repentance.
Clerical Attire: Clergymen wore distinctive garments that set them apart from the laity. These included the cassock, surplice, and stole, each with its own symbolic meaning.

According to the “Catholic Encyclopedia,” the Church’s emphasis on modesty and simplicity influenced not only clerical attire but also the broader fashion trends of the 12th century.

6. What Role Did Accessories Play In 12th Century Menswear?

Accessories were crucial in completing a 12th-century man’s outfit, providing both functionality and style.

Belts: As mentioned earlier, belts were essential for cinching the tunic and carrying items. They ranged from simple leather straps to ornate belts with decorative buckles and embellishments.
Pouches: Small leather pouches were attached to the belt and used to carry money, knives, and other personal items.
Gloves: Gloves were worn for warmth and protection, especially by those engaged in manual labor.
Rings: Rings were worn as symbols of status and authority, often featuring seals or precious stones.
Brooches: Brooches were used to fasten mantles and other outer garments, often decorated with intricate designs.
Knives: Knives were commonly carried for practical purposes, such as cutting food or wood.
Rosaries: Rosaries were carried as symbols of religious devotion, particularly among devout individuals.

Archaeological finds, such as those at the Museum of London, provide tangible examples of these accessories and their prevalence in 12th-century society.

7. How Did Military Fashion Influence 12th Century Menswear?

Military fashion significantly influenced 12th-century menswear, particularly in terms of practicality and functionality.

Padded Garments: Knights and soldiers wore padded undergarments, such as the gambeson, for protection under their armor. These garments provided cushioning and helped to distribute the weight of the armor.
Chainmail: Chainmail was a common form of armor, consisting of interlocking metal rings. It was worn over padded garments for added protection.
Helmets: Helmets were essential for protecting the head in battle, ranging from simple nasal helmets to more elaborate, full-faced helmets.
Shields: Shields were used for defense, often decorated with heraldic symbols to identify the knight or his lord.
Swords: Swords were the primary weapon of knights and soldiers, carried in scabbards attached to the belt.
Hose: Military hose were often reinforced with leather or metal plates for added protection.

The practicality and durability of military garments influenced civilian fashion, with elements such as padded layers and reinforced materials finding their way into everyday wear.

8. What Fabrics And Colors Were Commonly Used In 12th Century Menswear?

The fabrics and colors used in 12th-century menswear depended largely on the wearer’s social status and the availability of materials.

Fabrics

Wool: The most common fabric for outer garments, providing warmth and durability. Different grades of wool were available, with finer wools reserved for the upper classes.
Linen: Used for undergarments, such as chemises and braies, providing comfort and breathability.
Silk: A luxurious fabric imported from the East, reserved for the wealthy. Silk was used for linings, trims, and occasionally for entire garments.
Fur: Used for linings and trims, providing warmth and status. Common furs included fox, rabbit, and ermine.

Colors

Natural Dyes: Colors were achieved using natural dyes derived from plants, minerals, and insects.
Browns and Grays: Common colors for the lower classes, derived from undyed wool or simple dyes.
Greens: Achieved using plant dyes, such as woad or weld.
Blues: Derived from woad, a relatively expensive dye, making blue garments more prestigious.
Reds: Obtained from madder or kermes, both relatively expensive dyes, making red garments a symbol of wealth and status.
Purples: The most expensive color, derived from shellfish, reserved for royalty and the very wealthy.

According to research from the University of York, the availability and cost of different dyes influenced the color palettes of 12th-century fashion.

9. How Did Hairstyles And Headwear Complement 12th Century Menswear?

Hairstyles and headwear were integral to a man’s overall appearance in the 12th century, complementing his garments and reflecting his social status.

Hairstyles

Short Hair: Common among the lower classes and working men, short hair was practical and easy to maintain.
Long Hair: Fashionable among the nobility and knights, long hair was often styled with braids or curls.
Beards: Beards were common, with styles ranging from short and neatly trimmed to long and flowing.

Headwear

Coifs: Close-fitting caps made of linen, worn to cover the hair and protect it from dirt. Coifs were common among all classes.
Hoods: Versatile head coverings that could be worn alone or with a coif. Hoods provided warmth and protection from the elements.
Hats: Various types of hats were worn, ranging from simple felt hats to more elaborate, brimmed hats for the upper classes.
Chapels: Padded headwear.
Crowns: Reserved for royalty, crowns were symbols of authority and power.

Historical sources, such as illuminated manuscripts, provide visual evidence of these hairstyles and headwear options.

10. What Are Some Modern Interpretations Of 12th Century Menswear?

Modern designers and fashion enthusiasts often draw inspiration from 12th-century menswear, incorporating elements of medieval style into contemporary designs.

Layered Looks: Modern interpretations often feature layered looks, combining tunics, vests, and jackets to create a sense of depth and texture.
Natural Fabrics: Designers often use natural fabrics such as linen, wool, and cotton to evoke the rustic charm of medieval clothing.
Earth Tones: Earth tones such as browns, greens, and grays are popular choices for modern interpretations, reflecting the natural dyes used in the 12th century.
Belts and Pouches: Belts and pouches are used as functional accessories, adding a touch of medieval flair to contemporary outfits.
Historical Reenactments: Historical reenactors create accurate reproductions of 12th-century garments, providing valuable insights into the construction and design of medieval clothing.
Cosplay: Cosplayers often recreate iconic characters from medieval literature and history, showcasing elaborate and imaginative interpretations of 12th-century fashion.

Designers like Alessandro Michele at Gucci have incorporated medieval-inspired elements into their collections, demonstrating the enduring appeal of 12th-century fashion.

11. Where Can You Find Reliable Information About 12th Century Fashion?

Finding reliable information about 12th-century fashion requires consulting a variety of sources, including academic studies, historical documents, and museum collections.

Academic Journals: Journals such as “Medieval Clothing and Textiles” publish scholarly articles on various aspects of medieval fashion.
Museum Collections: Museums such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Victoria and Albert Museum have extensive collections of medieval clothing and textiles.
Historical Documents: Illuminated manuscripts, inventories, and other historical documents provide valuable insights into the garments and accessories worn in the 12th century.
Books: Books such as “The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant” by Sarah Thursfield offer detailed information on the construction and design of medieval clothing.
University Libraries: University libraries often have extensive collections of books and articles on medieval history and fashion.
Online Resources: Websites such as Regia Anglorum and the Medieval Silkwork project offer reliable information and resources on medieval clothing and textiles.

By consulting a variety of sources, you can gain a comprehensive understanding of 12th-century fashion and its historical context.

12. What Are Some Common Misconceptions About 12th Century Fashion?

Several misconceptions exist about 12th-century fashion, often perpetuated by popular culture and a lack of accurate information.

Everyone Wore the Same Clothes: In reality, clothing varied significantly depending on social status, occupation, and geographic location.
Clothing Was Always Dirty and Unkempt: While cleanliness standards were different than today, people still took pride in their appearance and made efforts to keep their clothing clean.
Colors Were Limited to Brown and Gray: While muted colors were common among the lower classes, the upper classes wore a wide range of vibrant colors.
Clothing Was Uncomfortable and Restrictive: While some garments were more formal and structured, many were designed for comfort and practicality.
No Surviving Examples of 12th Century Clothes: While it’s true that very few garments have survived to this day, archaeological finds and visual depictions give us a good idea of what people wore.

By dispelling these misconceptions, we can gain a more accurate and nuanced understanding of 12th-century fashion.

13. How Can You Incorporate 12th Century Fashion Elements Into Your Modern Wardrobe?

Incorporating elements of 12th-century fashion into your modern wardrobe can add a touch of historical flair and individuality to your personal style. Here are some tips on how to do it:

Layering: Embrace layered looks by combining tunics, vests, and jackets in complementary colors and textures.
Natural Fabrics: Opt for garments made of natural fabrics such as linen, wool, and cotton to evoke the rustic charm of medieval clothing.
Earth Tones: Incorporate earth tones such as browns, greens, and grays into your color palette for a subtle nod to medieval aesthetics.
Belts and Pouches: Accessorize with leather belts and pouches to add a functional and stylish touch to your outfits.
Simple Silhouettes: Choose garments with simple, clean lines that echo the understated elegance of 12th-century fashion.
Historical Inspiration: Research historical garments and accessories to gain inspiration for your modern interpretations.
Personal Expression: Don’t be afraid to experiment with different styles and combinations to create a look that is uniquely your own.

By incorporating these elements into your wardrobe, you can pay homage to the fashion of the 12th century while maintaining a contemporary and stylish aesthetic.

14. What Were The Typical Footwear Options In 12th Century Menswear?

Footwear in the 12th century was both practical and indicative of social status. The common options included:

Leather Shoes: Predominantly made from cattle leather, these were the most common type of footwear. Styles ranged from simple, flat-soled shoes to more elaborate designs with pointed toes, known as “poulaines,” which became popular among the nobility.
Boots: Ankle boots and calf-high boots were worn for added protection, particularly by those who worked outdoors or engaged in activities such as hunting or riding.
Hose: While not footwear, hose (woolen or linen leggings) were an essential part of legwear, often worn with shoes or boots for extra warmth and protection.
Wooden Clogs: In some regions, wooden clogs were used, especially in wet or muddy conditions, though these were more common among the lower classes.
Sandal-like shoes: Some shoes were made as sandal-like shoes during the summer.

The quality and style of footwear could indicate a person’s social standing. Well-crafted leather shoes were a sign of wealth, while the lower classes often wore simpler, more functional footwear.

15. What Type Of Jewelry Was Commonly Worn By Men In The 12th Century?

Jewelry worn by men in the 12th century was often a symbol of status, wealth, and authority. Common types included:

Rings: Rings were popular among the nobility and clergy, often made of gold or silver and set with precious stones such as sapphires, rubies, and emeralds. Rings could feature heraldic symbols, family crests, or religious motifs.
Brooches: Used to fasten cloaks and tunics, brooches were both functional and decorative. They came in various shapes and sizes, made from materials like bronze, silver, or gold, and adorned with intricate designs or gemstones.
Buckles: Decorative buckles were used on belts and were often made of precious metals and adorned with enamel or gemstones.
Amulets: Amulets were worn for protection against evil spirits or illness. These could be small pendants made of metal or stone, often inscribed with religious symbols or protective spells.
Seals: Signet rings were used to seal documents and were a symbol of authority and authenticity. These rings typically featured a unique design or family crest.
Necklaces: Though less common than rings or brooches, necklaces made of beads, metal chains, or pendants were sometimes worn by men, particularly those of high status.

The jewelry worn by men in the 12th century reflected their social standing and personal beliefs, serving as both adornment and symbols of power and protection.

16. How Did The Crusades Influence 12th Century Fashion?

The Crusades, a series of religious wars between the 11th and 13th centuries, had a notable impact on 12th-century fashion, introducing new materials, styles, and cultural influences to Europe.

Eastern Fabrics and Designs: Crusaders returning from the Middle East brought back exotic fabrics such as silk, cotton, and damask, as well as new designs and patterns. These materials and styles were gradually incorporated into European fashion, particularly among the upper classes.
Military Influences: The Crusades influenced military attire, with new forms of armor and weaponry being developed. These military innovations sometimes influenced civilian fashion, with elements such as padded garments and reinforced materials finding their way into everyday wear.
Religious Symbols: The Crusades led to an increased emphasis on religious symbols in clothing and accessories. Crosses, for example, became a more common motif in jewelry and embroidery.
Cultural Exchange: The Crusades facilitated cultural exchange between Europe and the Middle East, leading to a greater awareness and appreciation of different styles and customs.

According to the “Encyclopedia of the Crusades,” the cultural exchange that resulted from the Crusades had a lasting impact on European art, architecture, and fashion.

17. What Were The Main Differences Between Menswear And Womenswear In The 12th Century?

In the 12th century, menswear and womenswear shared some similarities in terms of basic garment types, but there were also notable differences in style, cut, and ornamentation.

Tunics: Both men and women wore tunics as their primary garment, but women’s tunics were typically longer, reaching the ankles, while men’s tunics varied in length from knee-length to ankle-length depending on social status and occupation.
Belts: Belts were worn by both sexes, but women’s belts were often narrower and more decorative than men’s belts.
Headwear: Headwear was more elaborate for women than for men. Women typically covered their hair with veils, wimples, or other head coverings, while men wore coifs, hoods, or hats.
Sleeves: Women’s garments often featured longer, more elaborate sleeves than men’s garments. Styles ranged from tight-fitting sleeves to wide, flaring sleeves.
Decoration: Womenswear was often more heavily decorated than menswear, with embroidery, gemstones, and other embellishments.
Social Norms: Social norms dictated that women’s clothing should be more modest and concealing than men’s clothing. Women were expected to cover their hair and bodies, while men had more freedom in their choice of attire.

Despite these differences, both menswear and womenswear in the 12th century reflected the social, religious, and cultural values of the time.

18. What Are Some Tips For Recreating Authentic 12th Century Menswear?

Recreating authentic 12th-century menswear requires attention to detail and a commitment to historical accuracy. Here are some tips to help you achieve an authentic look:

Research: Conduct thorough research on 12th-century clothing, consulting primary and secondary sources to understand the styles, materials, and construction techniques of the period.
Natural Fabrics: Use natural fabrics such as linen, wool, and silk to create your garments. Avoid synthetic materials, which were not available in the 12th century.
Accurate Patterns: Use accurate patterns based on historical examples. Patterns can be found in books such as “The Medieval Tailor’s Assistant” or online from reputable historical reenactment groups.
Hand Sewing: Hand-sew your garments using techniques that were common in the 12th century. Machine sewing was not available at the time.
Natural Dyes: Use natural dyes to color your fabrics. Experiment with different plant, mineral, and insect dyes to achieve authentic colors.
Authentic Accessories: Accessorize your outfit with accurate reproductions of 12th-century belts, pouches, shoes, and headwear.
Attention to Detail: Pay attention to small details such as the cut of the garments, the type of stitching used, and the placement of embellishments.

By following these tips, you can create accurate and authentic reproductions of 12th-century menswear.

19. What Were The Main Trade Routes And Their Impact On Fashion During The 12th Century?

Trade routes played a crucial role in shaping fashion during the 12th century, facilitating the exchange of goods, materials, and ideas between different regions. The main trade routes and their impact on fashion include:

Silk Road: The Silk Road connected Europe with the Far East, facilitating the import of silk, spices, and other luxury goods. Silk fabrics were highly prized and became a symbol of wealth and status in European fashion.
Mediterranean Trade: Mediterranean trade routes connected Europe with the Middle East and North Africa, facilitating the exchange of textiles, dyes, and other goods. Cotton fabrics from the Middle East and North Africa were introduced to Europe through these trade routes.
Baltic Trade: Baltic trade routes connected Northern Europe with Eastern Europe and Russia, facilitating the exchange of furs, timber, and other raw materials. Furs were used for linings and trims in European fashion, providing warmth and status.
Local Trade: Local trade routes within Europe facilitated the exchange of goods between different regions. Woolen fabrics from England, linen fabrics from Flanders, and dyes from various regions were traded throughout Europe.

According to the “Cambridge Economic History of Europe,” trade routes played a vital role in the economic and cultural development of Europe during the 12th century, influencing not only fashion but also art, architecture, and literature.

20. What Resources Does Mens-Fashion.Net Offer For Those Interested In Historical Fashion?

mens-fashion.net provides a wealth of resources for individuals interested in historical fashion, including articles, images, and links to external sources.

In-Depth Articles: Our website features in-depth articles on various aspects of historical fashion, including clothing styles, materials, accessories, and cultural influences.
Image Galleries: We provide extensive image galleries showcasing historical garments, accessories, and artwork, allowing you to visually explore the fashion of different eras.
Style Guides: Our style guides offer practical tips on how to incorporate elements of historical fashion into your modern wardrobe.
Links to External Resources: We provide links to external resources such as museum collections, academic journals, and historical reenactment groups, allowing you to further your research on historical fashion.
Community Forum: Our community forum allows you to connect with other fashion enthusiasts, share your knowledge and insights, and ask questions about historical fashion.

At mens-fashion.net, we are committed to providing you with accurate, informative, and engaging content on all aspects of men’s fashion, including historical styles.

Ready to explore the latest men’s fashion trends, discover style tips, and find inspiration for your personal wardrobe? Visit mens-fashion.net today to dive into our collection of articles and style guides. Whether you’re interested in historical fashion or contemporary styles, we’ve got you covered. Don’t miss out on the opportunity to elevate your style and stay ahead of the curve. Visit mens-fashion.net now and start your style journey. Find us at 227 W 27th St, New York, NY 10001, United States or give us a call at +1 (212) 217-5800.

FAQ About 12th Century Fashion

1. What was the typical male silhouette in the 12th century?

The typical silhouette for men in the 12th century was long and slender, achieved through layered tunics and belted waists. The aim was to create a streamlined and elegant appearance, often complemented by practical and comfortable clothing.

2. How did hairstyles differ between social classes?

Lower classes typically had short, practical haircuts, while nobility often sported longer hair styled with braids or curls. These styles reflected both practicality and status.

3. What materials were commonly used for clothing?

Wool and linen were the primary materials, with silk reserved for the wealthy elite. These materials provided both comfort and durability for the various social classes.

4. What were the main types of headwear for men?

Common headwear options included coifs, hoods, and various types of hats. Each type provided different levels of protection and style, depending on the wearer’s needs and status.

5. How did military attire influence civilian fashion?

Military attire influenced civilian fashion by introducing practical elements like padded garments and reinforced materials. These elements were adapted for everyday wear.

6. What role did belts play in 12th-century outfits?

Belts were essential for cinching tunics and carrying items like pouches or knives. They served both functional and decorative purposes.

7. How did religious beliefs affect fashion choices?

Religious beliefs promoted modesty and simplicity, influencing garments to be long and covering, with minimal display of wealth. These values shaped broader fashion trends.

8. Were there distinct seasonal variations in clothing?

Yes, lighter linen garments were worn in warmer months, while heavier wool layers were preferred for colder weather. This ensured comfort and practicality throughout the year.

9. What types of jewelry did men wear?

Men commonly wore rings, brooches, and buckles, often made of precious metals and adorned with gemstones. These items symbolized status and authority.

10. How can I recreate 12th-century menswear accurately today?

To recreate 12th-century menswear accurately, research historical sources, use natural fabrics, and pay attention to hand-sewing techniques and authentic accessories. This will ensure an authentic and respectful representation of the era’s fashion.