The Edwardian era is visually synonymous with the Gibson Girl and her distinctive S-silhouette. This fashionable shape, though relatively short-lived, dramatically contrasted with the preceding Victorian era’s silhouette, which featured skirts widening from the waist and tightly fitted bodices. The Edwardian silhouette shifted the focus from the front view to the side profile, emphasizing the bust and the derrière.
For enthusiasts of the Edwardian period, understanding the emergence and construction of this iconic look is fascinating. Let’s delve into the origins of the S-silhouette and the methods used to achieve it.
The Genesis of a New Fashion Silhouette
Pinpointing a singular reason for the radical shift in the female Fashion Silhouette is complex. It appears to be a confluence of societal changes and a growing desire for comfort. History reveals women’s willingness to embrace new styles, even briefly, as seen with Regency fashions and, indeed, the S-silhouette itself. However, the Edwardian era marked a turning point. Experimentation with styles prioritizing freedom of movement and comfort gained momentum, making a complete return to the restrictive Victorian silhouette unlikely. This era of change paved the way for a more liberated approach to women’s fashion.
Constructing the S-Silhouette
While considered more comfortable than previous fashions, particularly compared to Victorian attire, achieving the S-silhouette was not effortless. The “health corset” played a significant role, alongside more flexible bodice designs than those of the Victorian period. Researching the intricacies of creating the Gibson Girl look reveals a more elaborate process than initially imagined.
The Role of Health Corsets in Shaping the Edwardian Silhouette
Contrary to the popular narrative that credits the corset controversy and dress reform movements for the S-silhouette, the shift likely stemmed from women’s increasing social engagement and desire for more mobile corsetry. The “health corset,” also known as the athletic, hygienic, or sanitary corset, emerged as an innovation that resonated with this evolving lifestyle.
The key difference between health corsets and their Victorian predecessors lay in their construction. Victorian corsets relied on rigid boning and back ties to sculpt the figure. Health corsets, however, utilized firmer, more flexible materials, sometimes with lighter boning or cording, and often fastened with buttons. While back ties for adjustment remained, health corsets were designed for easier self-application.
Victorian corsets primarily relied on waist constriction for support and shape, often lacking shoulder straps. Health corsets, in contrast, incorporated shoulder straps for support. While the health corset alone did not create the dramatic “S” curve, it was instrumental. It shifted emphasis away from the waist and hips towards the bust, simultaneously rounding the hips and accentuating the back. However, the S-silhouette involved more than just the health corset.
Corset Covers: Enhancing the Bust Line
Edwardian corset covers played a crucial role in achieving the desired chest volume. Unlike their plain, discreet Victorian counterparts designed to smooth corset lines, Edwardian corset covers were flouncy and decorative, specifically designed to create a puffed-out chest.
Padding and Bust Improvers: Adding Volume to the Fashion Silhouette
Observing images of the classic Edwardian silhouette reveals that ruffled corset covers alone couldn’t account for the pronounced chest projection, particularly for some women. Padding, or “bust improvers,” became a common method to enhance the Gibson Girl look, adding extra volume where desired.
These “bust improvers” functioned similarly to modern strapless bras but focused on adding size rather than solely providing support. The combination of ruffled corset covers and padding significantly contributed to the exaggerated bustline of the Edwardian fashion silhouette.
Bust Bodices: A Combined Shaping Garment
A slightly less common yet available option was the bust bodice. This undergarment aimed to emphasize the chest using a single piece rather than multiple layers. It was often worn under gowns when a separate corset cover might not be suitable, offering a streamlined approach to achieving the desired upper body shape.
The bust bodice essentially functioned as a corset layered over another corset, incorporating firm boning to achieve the distinct puffed chest associated with the era’s silhouette.
Bustles: Completing the S-Curve Fashion Silhouette
While the preceding elements addressed the forward projection of the bust, the rear curve of the “S” silhouette was achieved through posture and a subtle revival of the bustle.
Edwardian bustles, or “hip pads,” were significantly smaller than their earlier counterparts. These pads, worn over fitted skirts, created the gentle curve at the back, completing the S-silhouette. They were instrumental in achieving the characteristic shape without the extreme volume of previous bustles.
