Fashion expert José Teunissen once stated: “What characterises fashion is its urge to innovate. Every six months, fashion presents itself as a moment where the spirit of time is captured in a moment of absolute beauty.” This quote perfectly encapsulates the essence of Fashion Seasons, which are fundamental to understanding the rhythm and dynamics of the fashion industry, especially for ready-to-wear clothing.
Fashion seasons essentially dictate the industry’s calendar, setting the pace for design, production, and retail. Each season heralds the arrival of new fashion collections, showcased on runways and subsequently appearing in stores. This cyclical introduction of novelty is crucial for the fashion industry’s continued existence and dynamism, driving consumer interest and purchasing behavior. Think of fashion seasons as the very heartbeat of the industry’s trading cycle, ensuring its ongoing relevance and evolution through the constant unveiling of fresh styles and trends. Fashion designers typically dedicate their creative energies to crafting at least two major collections annually – spring/summer and autumn/winter – effectively defining a fashion season’s duration to a maximum of six months.
The fashion industry primarily operates around two main seasons: spring/summer and autumn/winter. These are considered the core or primary seasons, with most clothing brands consistently presenting collections for these periods. These collections are the foundation of the fashion calendar. However, it’s important to note that not all fashion brands adhere to this seasonal structure. Some brands intentionally deviate from seasonal collections, often focusing on timeless or less trend-driven apparel that remains available year-round. These brands often align with the ‘slow fashion’ movement, a counterpoint to ‘fast fashion’ which emphasizes rapid trend cycles and frequent collection releases.
Spring/summer collections are designed for warmer weather, featuring lighter, more breathable fabrics like cotton and linen. These collections typically include items such as blouses, skirts, summer dresses, shorts, and swimwear. Spring/summer fashion is often characterized by brighter colors and a wider use of prints compared to autumn/winter. Within the fashion industry, spring/summer is commonly abbreviated as S/S or SS.
Autumn/winter collections cater to colder temperatures and layering. They utilize heavier fabrics and warmer materials like wool and cashmere. Typical autumn/winter garments include sweaters, cardigans, blazers, coats, jackets, scarves, and boots. The color palettes for these collections tend to be darker than their summer counterparts, and prices are often higher due to materials and construction. In the American fashion industry, autumn/winter may also be referred to as fall/winter, with abbreviations like F/W, FW, or AW (in the UK, for autumn/winter).
Beyond the primary seasons, many brands, especially in the luxury sector, introduce intermediate collections to bridge the gaps between spring/summer and autumn/winter. These are often termed ‘pre-collections’, ‘off-season collections’, or ‘secondary seasons’. Common examples include ‘resort/cruise’ and ‘pre-fall’ collections, although the specific intermediate collections offered can vary from brand to brand. Some brands might opt for a ‘high summer’ collection instead of a ‘pre-spring’ one, for instance.
Resort/Cruise collections, sometimes used interchangeably, historically catered to affluent clientele vacationing in warm destinations during the winter months. Originally intended to fill a retail gap when winter wear dominated stores, resort collections have evolved into significant offerings. With increased accessibility to travel, these collections have broadened their appeal beyond their initial niche.
Pre-fall collections serve as a transitional bridge between summer and autumn/winter. They often incorporate elements from both seasons, featuring pieces suitable for the shift in weather and style.
Fashion houses like Chanel, Dior, Gucci, and Prada typically unveil their spring/summer and fall/winter collections during the major international fashion weeks. These events, including New York Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, Milan Fashion Week, and Paris Fashion Week, or independent shows held around the same time, serve as platforms to present new designs, gauge buyer and press interest, and generate excitement for the upcoming season’s collections. These fashion weeks occur well in advance of the actual season.
Spring/summer collections are showcased at fashion weeks in September and October, almost a year ahead of the summer season they represent. Autumn/winter collections are presented in February and March, preceding the following winter.
It’s important to note that this calendar primarily refers to ready-to-wear womenswear fashion weeks, which are considered the most influential segment of the industry. The ready-to-wear calendar, as it is known today, largely originated around 1973, marking the formalization of women’s ready-to-wear show schedules.
Spring/summer collections are then delivered to stores between January and March, remaining on sale through the spring and early summer, with summer sales typically commencing from mid-June to mid-July or August.
Fall/winter collections arrive in stores between July and September and are sold throughout the autumn and winter months, with winter sales often starting around Christmas and extending into January or February.
The period between catwalk presentations and retail availability involves brands selling their designs to retailers, who then place orders. Following order confirmation, the clothing designs enter production. Many brands, particularly those beyond the high-end luxury segment, present their collections at fashion trade fairs rather than catwalk shows. These fairs, held biannually in January/February (for fall/winter) and July/August (for spring/summer), facilitate the showcasing of collections to retailers and buyers.
Resort/cruise collections are typically presented in May, often through brands hosting their own dedicated fashion shows rather than within fashion week frameworks. These collections become available in stores starting in winter, often from mid-November, aligning with the delivery timeframe of pre-spring collections.
Pre-fall collections lack dedicated fashion weeks or large-scale shows. Designers often present them privately, with or without smaller presentations, prior to the main fall/winter shows in February. Pre-fall collections are delivered to stores earlier, often in May, preceding the summer collection arrivals.
In summary, the fashion season schedule can be outlined as follows:
Fashion Shows:
- Autumn/winter: February/March
- Spring/summer: September/October
- Resort/Cruise: May
In Stores:
- Autumn/winter: July-September (full collection by September)
- Spring/summer: January-March (full collection by March)
- Resort/Cruise: November
- Pre-fall: May
Belgian designer Dries van Noten aptly remarked, “It is impossible to explain how the fashion industry works to people who don’t work in fashion,” highlighting the complexity of the fashion calendar.
A significant issue with the established fashion calendar is its misalignment with actual meteorological seasons. Fashion seasons operate ahead of the real-world seasons, a disconnect criticized by Giorgio Armani, who questioned, “But, who buys an item just to put it in the closet to wait for the right season?”. This disconnect creates practical problems, as weather significantly influences clothing sales. Unseasonably warm weather can dampen demand for fall and winter clothing, while cold spells can reduce interest in spring items.
This temporal gap leads to a situation where seasonal clothing often goes on sale just as the appropriate weather arrives. Summer sales, for instance, frequently begin in mid-June, shortly before the astronomical start of summer on June 21st. Similarly, winter sales often coincide with or precede the winter solstice on December 21st. Such early discounting pressures profit margins for both retailers and brands.
The industry’s dissatisfaction with this calendar mismatch is palpable. Armani described the misalignment as “criminal,” finding it illogical to find linen dresses in stores during winter and alpaca coats in summer.
The COVID-19 pandemic amplified calls for a re-evaluation of the fashion calendar. An ‘Open letter to the Fashion Industry’, spearheaded by Dries van Noten and signed by major industry players including department stores like Selfridges and Harvey Nichols, proposed shifting the fall/winter selling season to autumn/winter and the spring/summer season to the summer period. The letter also advocated for end-of-season discounting, aligning sales with the actual end of each season. This aimed to ensure more full-price sales and a more rational consumption cycle.
Despite these discussions and some experiments, the fashion industry largely continues to operate under the traditional seasonal calendar. Ninke Bloemberg, a fashion expert, notes that while some adjustments and individual initiatives exist, fundamental change has been limited. Transforming a global supply chain with deeply entrenched practices is a complex undertaking. Financial considerations and the industry’s growth-oriented model also pose significant hurdles to radical calendar reform.
John Mulder, a store owner, observed that a period of more ‘real-time’ operations during the pandemic, with deliveries spread out later in the season, actually improved profitability. This highlights the potential benefits of a more weather-aligned fashion calendar.
While large-scale change remains elusive, some designers and brands are exploring alternative approaches. These include moving away from strict seasonal collections towards continuously evolving lines or creating independent schedules. Designers like Ronald van der Kemp are also advocating for more sustainable and less season-dependent practices.
Historically, fashion’s relationship with seasons has been more nuanced. In the 19th century, for example, winter was the season for ball gowns because the social ball season occurred in January and February, demonstrating a connection to seasonal activities rather than just climate. This historical perspective underscores the evolving and multifaceted nature of fashion seasons and their continuing adaptation within the industry.
