North Korea’s strict control over its citizens extends beyond political ideology and into the realm of personal appearance. The country’s unofficial “Fashion Police,” comprised of unpaid members of the government-run Kim Il-sung Socialist Youth League, meticulously monitor adherence to unwritten rules governing clothing and hairstyles. These enforcers ensure conformity and suppress any hint of foreign influence.
Women’s clothing choices are particularly scrutinized. Trousers must be loose-fitting, skimpy clothing is strictly forbidden, and sunhats are viewed with suspicion. Blue jeans and tops with Roman lettering are completely off-limits, and anything deemed too decorative or unusual invites censure. The overarching principle is that clothing must not appear “foreign.”
While specific regulations are not formally codified, the ambiguity allows enforcers wide discretion in determining what constitutes a violation. This uncertainty creates a climate of fear and self-censorship, as citizens strive to avoid drawing unwanted attention. The enforcement varies regionally, with different interpretations of “foreign styles” prevailing in different provinces.
Even hairstyles are subject to scrutiny. Women are generally expected to maintain neat, conservative styles without excessive volume. Although reports of mandatory haircuts mirroring leader Kim Jong-un’s style have been dismissed by experts, the regime has a long history of enforcing stringent rules on hair length and styling.
Despite the strict regulations, fashion trends do emerge in North Korea. Chinese cosmetics are popular, and perming the lower part of one’s hair has become a recent trend among young women. While state media continues to promote vinalon, a domestically produced fabric, imported clothing brightens the streets of North Korean cities. The desire for self-expression persists, finding subtle outlets within the confines of permissible styles.
The fashion police’s actions reflect the North Korean government’s broader efforts to control all aspects of its citizens’ lives and prevent the infiltration of foreign influences. The restrictions on personal appearance serve as a constant reminder of the regime’s power and the limitations placed on individual expression. By dictating what people wear, the government aims to maintain ideological purity and prevent any perceived threat to its authority.
