Though rationing and wartime restrictions heavily influenced Fashion In The 1940s, the decade still saw the emergence of distinct and sometimes controversial styles. For men, the prevailing silhouette was broad-shouldered, with a nipped-in waist and wide-legged trousers. While many men relied on existing suits or military uniforms, a new style emerged in 1943: the zoot suit.
The zoot suit, born from the Harlem drape suits of the 1930s, was characterized by its exaggerated features: an oversized jacket with padded shoulders, high-waisted, voluminous trousers pegged at the ankles, and often paired with a wide tie and a fedora. Primarily worn by working-class minority men, the zoot suit became a symbol of rebellion and cultural expression. However, its extravagant use of fabric during a time of rationing sparked controversy and even led to the Zoot Suit Riots of 1943 in Los Angeles.
The excessive fabric required for a zoot suit was seen as unpatriotic during wartime rationing, leading to clashes between American servicemen and zoot suit wearers. Despite the controversy, the zoot suit’s influence continued into the 1950s and foreshadowed elements of later fashion trends. The wide shoulders, high waists, and wide legs of the zoot suit found their way into more mainstream menswear in the postwar years.
In Britain, returning servicemen were issued demobilization suits, often referred to as “demob” suits. These suits, intended to ease the transition back into civilian life, were generally unpopular due to their adherence to pre-war styles of the 1930s. British men seeking more fashionable attire turned to the sharply tailored “Edwardian” styles offered by Savile Row tailors.
The post-war era witnessed a shift towards a more casual and sporty aesthetic, particularly in America. The return of servicemen from the Pacific theater brought with them the vibrant Hawaiian shirt. Although originating in Hawaii in the 1930s, the Hawaiian shirt’s popularity surged in the late 1940s and into the 1950s as American casual wear gained global traction. This relaxed style influenced both men’s and women’s fashion, reflecting a broader societal shift towards informality and leisure. The 1940s, despite its wartime austerity, proved to be a pivotal decade in fashion history, laying the groundwork for many styles that would define the following decades.
