Nudie Cohn, born Nuta Kotlyarenko in Kiev, Russia in 1902, transformed the landscape of Western fashion. The son of a bootmaker, Cohn developed a passion for fabrics and design early in life, working as a tailor’s apprentice in his youth. Immigrating to America at age 11, his name was changed to Nudie Cohn at Ellis Island—a change he later attributed as a great favor.
After various jobs, including shoe shining and boxing, Cohn met and married Bobbie Kruger in Minnesota. The couple moved to New York City and opened a lingerie store. However, it was a move to the West Coast that would solidify Cohn’s place in fashion history.
In the mid-1940s, following a financial setback due to a hernia surgery, Cohn had a groundbreaking idea: designing outfits for celebrities. His partnership with a then-unknown country singer, Tex Williams, marked a turning point. Using the proceeds from the sale of Williams’ horse, they purchased a sewing machine, and Cohn began crafting elaborate stage costumes.
Following the success of his designs for Williams, Cohn opened “Nudie’s of Hollywood” in North Hollywood, focusing exclusively on western wear. This marked the beginning of his journey to becoming the “Rhinestone Cowboy.”
Cohn’s signature style involved embellishing traditional western wear with lavish amounts of rhinestones, intricate chain stitch embroidery, and themed imagery. This flamboyant approach elevated western wear to new heights of extravagance. In 1963, the business expanded and relocated to a larger facility, becoming “Nudie’s Rodeo Tailors.”
Cohn created iconic outfits for a roster of legendary figures, including a $10,000 gold lamé suit for Elvis Presley and a white cowboy suit adorned with musical notations for Hank Williams. His designs became synonymous with their wearers, extending beyond music to film, with Robert Redford’s costume in the movie “Electric Horseman” being a notable example. Roy Rogers and Dale Evans, the quintessential Hollywood cowboy couple, were close friends and frequent wearers of Cohn’s creations. His clientele included a wide range of stars, from John Lennon and John Wayne to Ronald Reagan. Cohn himself embraced his own flamboyant style, often sporting his signature rhinestone-studded suits and mismatched boots—a reminder, he said, of his humble beginnings.
Beyond clothing, Cohn’s creativity extended to automobiles. He customized 18 vehicles, primarily white Pontiac Bonneville convertibles, into elaborate “Nudie Mobiles.” These cars featured extravagant additions like steer horns, six-shooter door handles, rifles mounted on the exterior, and silver dollar interiors. Today, the surviving Nudie Mobiles are highly sought-after collector’s items. One of these iconic cars, designed for country singer Webb Pierce, is on display at the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum in Nashville, Tennessee.
Nudie Cohn’s legacy extends far beyond his death in 1984. His influence on fashion, particularly western wear, remains significant. While Nudie’s Rodeo Tailors closed in 1994, it was revived in 2015 by his granddaughter, Jamie. This renewed interest in Cohn’s work ensures that his contributions to American fashion will continue to be celebrated. His iconic designs, from the dazzling rhinestone suits to the outlandish Nudie Mobiles, solidified his place as a true original in the world of fashion.
