True androgyny in fashion lies in the absence of gender binaries and their associated visual cues. It’s not simply men wearing skirts or women in suits, but rather a nuanced approach to design that transcends traditional masculine and feminine aesthetics. This involves understanding and deconstructing the very codes that define gender in clothing.
Many fashion articles showcasing androgyny often place women in oversized or boxy menswear. However, this is pseudo-androgyny, merely molding women to fit conventional masculine tropes. The same applies to men in traditionally feminine garments like leggings or mini skirts. This approach, better termed “gender-bending,” reinforces gender norms by exaggerating the aesthetics of the opposite gender. True androgyny seeks to eliminate these distinctions.
To achieve a truly androgynous look, designers must understand the inherent differences between male and female anatomy and how clothing traditionally accommodates these differences. Typically, the widest part of a male body is the shoulders, while for females it’s the hips. Waist placement also differs, being higher on women, resulting in a shorter torso and proportionally longer legs. These differences dictate variations in clothing construction, such as jacket and trouser lengths and rises.
Furthermore, clothing often reflects deeply ingrained societal perceptions of sexuality. Historically, menswear has emphasized structure and protection, drawing inspiration from military uniforms and symbolizing power and responsibility. Conversely, womenswear has traditionally highlighted curves and vulnerability, reflecting societal expectations tied to fertility and motherhood. These historical gender norms continue to influence contemporary fashion design.
Modern androgynous fashion aims to dismantle these biological and sexual gender codes. It’s not a simple matter of swapping garments between sexes. True androgynous design often distorts or conceals typical body proportions, sometimes through structured tailoring, other times through draping, or a combination of both. Examples include non-Western garments like the Japanese hanten, Middle Eastern kandora, and Mongolian deel. These styles often prioritize concealing body shape or adding space around the body, creating a more gender-neutral silhouette.
Rigidity and fluidity play crucial roles in achieving androgyny. Rigidity minimizes curves, while fluidity softens hard edges. A poncho exemplifies this balance, combining rigid fabric with a draped silhouette. Designers like Issey Miyake have consistently challenged conventional silhouettes, creating exaggerated, non-human forms inspired by traditional Japanese clothing. This approach de-emphasizes sexuality and encourages a more abstract understanding of the body.
Androgyny exists on a spectrum. Tilda Swinton, known for her androgynous style, exemplifies this range. She seamlessly navigates between subtly feminine, overtly masculine, and truly gender-neutral ensembles. True androgyny, often characterized by austerity and lack of ornamentation, leans towards a rigorously structured or fluid aesthetic, evoking robotic or monastic imagery, respectively.
Currently, menswear seems to be leading in androgynous experimentation. While womenswear experienced a similar movement in the early 2000s, a resurgence of overtly sexualized dressing has become prevalent. This shift suggests a cyclical nature of fashion trends and highlights the complexities of defining and achieving true androgyny in a constantly evolving cultural landscape.
