Though vintage sewing patterns might seem outdated, they often hold timeless styles that can be just as fashionable today. I fondly recall sewing from vintage Burda Petite Fashion magazines in the mid-1990s, and recently rediscovered an Autumn/Winter ’96/’97 issue on eBay. My aim was to revisit those classic designs and potentially find some basic yet stylish patterns to create modern Fashion Blouses.
Surprisingly, the patterns in this vintage magazine feel remarkably current. Beyond the blouse pattern I recently completed, several designs caught my eye, including trousers, an A-line skirt, a tunic blouse, and a raglan-sleeved dress. The magazine even featured a silhouette that resonates with today’s long, woven t-shirt style tops, showcasing the enduring appeal of certain fashion blouse designs.
My personal style often leans towards convertible collar blouses. Inspired by fashion experts like Barb from Sewing on the Edge, who emphasizes the flattering and feminine nature of convertible collar blouses, I’ve been drawn to this style for years. Finding a well-shaped convertible collar pattern with darts, rather than princess seams, proved to be a delightful discovery in this vintage Burda magazine. While previous projects using darted patterns sometimes felt restrictive, this particular Burda pattern offered a fresh starting point for creating a comfortable and stylish fashion blouse.
The Burda pattern showcased versatile options for this blouse, from crisp white and bold polka dots to elegant powder blue silk and floral print cotton with delicate collar ruffles. Beyond blouses, the pattern also included dress and nightshirt variations, underlining its adaptability and making it a truly versatile choice for various fashion blouse styles.
Here is my rendition of the fashion blouse, sewn using the Burda pattern.
While Burda’s petite range is a great starting point, achieving a perfect fit often requires adjustments. For this pattern, even in the smallest size (Burda 38, equivalent to size 19 in the magazine), significant shoulder alterations were necessary. After tracing and adjusting the pattern, I ended up reducing the shoulder width by a full inch to achieve the desired fit for my fashion blouse.
The finished blouse offers a comfortable, roomy fit. While I may have slightly over-tapered the waist and hip, the intention was to create an easy-to-wear fashion blouse. These photos show the blouse tucked in, which pairs well with a skirt, but it’s equally stylish worn untucked with pants for a more casual fashion blouse look. I also subtly modified the collar, softening its pointed 90s shape for a more contemporary feel.
A lesson learned during this project was the importance of checking sleeve ease. Trusting the pattern instructions, I overlooked measuring the sleeve armscye against the garment armhole, only to discover excessive sleeve ease. Correcting this required trimming and re-basting to smoothly set in the sleeves. Future adjustments will include refining dart positions, shortening the horizontal dart and adjusting the vertical darts for an improved fit in my next fashion blouse iteration.
The fabric choice for this fashion blouse was a Burberry mini-houndstooth cotton shirting, reminiscent of the quality I appreciated in Burberry shirts from my professional wardrobe days. Hoping for similar durability, I used silk organza as interfacing for the collar, facings, and cuffs, enhancing the structure and longevity of this handmade fashion blouse.
Constructing the convertible collar’s back neck edge proved to be the trickiest part. My preferred method now involves using self-bias binding for a cleaner finish, a technique I find more effective than standard pattern instructions for achieving a professional look in fashion blouses.
Button selection added a touch of vintage charm to this project. While standard cream shirt buttons were an option, I opted for green plastic buttons from my stash, likely dating back to the 90s, perfectly complementing the vintage pattern and adding a unique detail to this handmade fashion blouse. Sewn entirely on my vintage Singer 201, including buttonholes made with a Singer buttonhole attachment, this fashion blouse is a testament to timeless style and classic sewing techniques.
