The fundamental right for workers to organize for decent work and a living wage is inextricably linked to the progress of millions of women who produce our clothing and shoes, often under conditions of poverty wages. In an era marked by the unprecedented challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic, this right has become even more critical. Recent research, involving interviews with 24 trade union leaders and a survey of 124 union activists and labor advocates across Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, and Sri Lanka, reveals a concerning trend. A significant majority of survey respondents, nearly two thirds (61%), reported a worsening situation for freedom of association and collective bargaining since the onset of the pandemic. Alarmingly, almost half (48%) indicated an increase in discrimination, intimidation, threats, and harassment targeting trade union members.
This investigation sheds light on disturbing allegations of union-busting and related abuses within 13 factories. These factories are, or have recently been, suppliers to at least 15 prominent global fashion brands and retailers, including industry giants such as adidas, Asda, Benetton Group, BESTSELLER, C&A, Sainsbury’s, ETAM, H&M, HUGO BOSS, J.Crew, OVS SpA, Mango, Next, Primark, and Under Armour. The freedom to choose what we wear is often taken for granted, but for the individuals who make our clothes, freedom is a daily struggle for basic rights and fair treatment.
The findings underscore the persistent challenges faced by union leaders, who endure discrimination, threats, violence, fabricated charges, and arrests. Factories are reportedly exploiting the COVID-19 pandemic as a pretext to justify these actions and to further suppress organizing efforts and dismantle collective bargaining agreements. This suppression of trade union rights, initially spiking during the pandemic’s early stages, is now solidifying into a disturbing norm, with devastating consequences for garment workers, predominantly women. Without a collective voice and essential protections, these workers are confronted with declining wages, increasingly precarious employment, extended working hours, and pervasive abuse and harassment on the factory floor.
These revelations serve as a stark reminder of the urgent need for governments, fashion brands, and suppliers to take decisive action. It is imperative to ensure that the right to freedom of association is genuinely protected throughout fashion supply chains. The current situation unequivocally demonstrates the inadequacy of relying solely on social auditing. What is required is a more robust approach that includes proactive brand engagement with suppliers to actively safeguard freedom of association, coupled with the implementation of mandatory human rights due diligence frameworks. Fashion brands and suppliers are strongly urged to engage in sincere dialogue with workers and their representatives through collective bargaining and the establishment of binding agreements among key stakeholders. This collaborative approach is essential to building a fashion industry where freedom and fair labor practices are not just aspirations but realities.
