The 1920s, often called the Roaring Twenties, was a decade of immense social, artistic, and cultural change. This transformation was vividly reflected in fashion, particularly women’s fashion, which broke away from the restrictive styles of previous eras. While the iconic flapper dress is often the first image that comes to mind when thinking of 1920s fashion, it represented just one facet of the diverse styles prevalent during this exciting period.
The flapper style, characterized by its androgynous silhouette, was indeed popular. These dresses featured dropped waistlines, straight shapes, and often knee-length hemlines, a radical departure from the longer, more structured dresses of the past. However, this wasn’t the only defining look of the decade.
Jeanne Lanvin, a prominent designer of the time, offered a stark contrast to the flapper look with her “Robe de Style” dresses. These designs embraced femininity and romance, featuring long, full skirts, sometimes enhanced with panniers to create volume. These dresses, like the black and silver example, evoked a more traditional elegance, offering an alternative for women who preferred a less androgynous style.
Lanvin’s designs also included softer, pastel shades and romantic details. A pastel dress she designed in 1922, paired with a straw hat, further illustrates this style. It moved away from the close-fitting cloche hats typically associated with the flapper era, showcasing a different take on 1920s headwear.
Even within the flapper style, variations emerged. Some designers and women interpreted the shapeless silhouette with a feminine twist, incorporating delicate fabrics, embellishments, and softer lines. This demonstrated that even within a dominant trend, there was room for personal expression and nuanced interpretations.
Another significant fashion trend of the 1920s was the rise of sportswear as daywear for women. While sportswear had long been acceptable for men in casual settings, the 1920s marked its acceptance into women’s wardrobes for everyday occasions. This shift is often attributed to Coco Chanel, a leading fashion innovator, but designers like Jane Regny and Jean Patou also played crucial roles in popularizing this trend.
The influence of tennis on fashion was particularly strong. Tennis was a widely enjoyed sport among women, and its apparel heavily inspired everyday clothing. Jean Patou’s yellow skirt and sweater set perfectly exemplifies this influence, mirroring the functional yet stylish attire worn on the tennis court.
Tennis stars, like Suzanne Lenglen, became fashion icons, further propelling the sportswear trend. Lenglen’s on-court style, featuring short-sleeved, pleated tennis dresses and bandeaux designed by Patou, captivated the public. Her fashion choices, both on and off the court, were widely emulated.
By the late 1920s, sleeveless, knee-length, shift-like tennis dresses became highly fashionable, reflecting Lenglen’s influence and broader fashion trends. The lines between sportswear and daywear blurred, with elements of sports clothing becoming integrated into everyday outfits.
By 1928, sportswear had become so integrated into daily life that The Tatler noted its acceptance even in fashionable restaurants, often worn from lunchtime through cocktail hour. This illustrates the remarkable evolution of fashion in the 1920s, where comfort, practicality, and style merged to create a dynamic and liberating new aesthetic for women.
