Eighties Hip Hop Fashion was a bold statement, and perhaps no single item symbolized this era more than gold chains. Alongside hats, they became cornerstones of the hip hop look, arguably the most recognizable accessory for the urban community. Emerging around 1983, gold chains represented a shift in hip hop style. As the music scene transitioned from “party/social rap” to a more hardcore sound, the visual aesthetic followed suit.
From Street Hustlers to Hip Hop Stars: The Rise of Gold
Early hip hop style icons like the Furious Five, Afrika Bambaataa, and Grandmaster Caz gave way to a new wave of inspiration drawn from neighborhood hustlers. This street-infused fashion was further amplified by mainstream figures like Mr. T from the A-Team and boxing legend Mike Tyson. Gold chains became synonymous with hedonism and entrepreneurial success, a powerful symbol for those who emerged from the streets. Even as conscious fashion with African medallions gained popularity between 1989 and 1991, gold chains remained a steadfast presence. They became deeply ingrained in the urban landscape and hip hop mentality, influencing styles and trends for decades to come.
Rocking the Chain: A Science of Style
Wearing a gold chain in hip hop culture transcended mere adornment; it was a lifestyle. The way a chain was worn, and the ability to defend it, defined its owner. In the often-volatile environment of the eighties, sporting a gold chain signified a certain level of confidence and status. This led to the development of distinct styles and approaches to “rocking the chain,” each with its own nuances and significance.
The Dookie Chain: An Old School Staple
The “dookie chain,” also known as “the rope,” was the original gold chain style in hip hop. This twisted, usually 10-karat gold chain was favored by old school icons like Run DMC, LL Cool J, Big Daddy Kane, and Rakim. Run DMC, in particular, is credited with popularizing the dookie chain on a mainstream level.
Its versatility allowed it to be paired with a range of outfits, from acetate suits and Kangol hats to pinstripe suits, leather jackets, and fur coats, as seen on artists like Biz Markie, Cool C, and Slick Rick.
The Evolution of Bling: Cuban Links and Beyond
The dookie chain evolved into the “Cuban link,” characterized by flattened, tightly intertwined gold links. This style, which lent its name to a classic hip hop album, maintained the weight and versatility of its predecessor.
From Minimalist to Maximalist: A Spectrum of Styles
Cuban links, like dookie chains, could be styled in various ways. Some artists opted for extravagant displays, like Jay-Z’s infamous 5-kilogram Cuban link. Others, like Pimp C, favored a more understated “light” chain. This dichotomy continued into the 2000s, with artists like Young Jeezy embracing minimalist trap-chic and others like Whiz Khalifa, Future, and Gunplay showcasing more baroque styles.
Iced-Out Medallions: Taking Bling to the Next Level
The rise of the “exaggerated” chain, often featuring large, iced-out medallions, marked another turning point in hip hop jewelry. Southern rappers like Rick Ross, T-Pain, and Gucci Mane popularized this trend.
Beyond Bling: Medallions and Meaning
Medallions added another layer of significance to hip hop jewelry, allowing artists to express affiliation and make statements. Crew chains, like those of Roc-A-Fella, Death Row, Maybach Music Group, No Limit, and Cash Money, became iconic symbols of collective identity. Religious medallions, particularly the “Jesus piece,” allowed artists to showcase their faith or spirituality. Ghostface Killah, a prominent wearer of the Jesus piece, famously rapped about owning one since 1994.
From its humble beginnings as a symbol of street style to its evolution into elaborate displays of wealth and status, the gold chain remains a defining element of eighties hip hop fashion and its lasting legacy. It’s a story of ambition, style, and the power of self-expression through fashion.
