The Edwardian era, particularly in the United States, championed a robust and healthy image of masculinity, a stark contrast to the more refined and meticulous styles of the early Victorian period. This shift was largely influenced by the burgeoning popularity of sports and outdoor pursuits, as well as the widespread admiration for figures like President Theodore Roosevelt. Roosevelt’s establishment of the National Park system, encouraging outdoor adventure, coupled with his own well-publicized exploits as a Rough Rider and global traveler, significantly shaped the era’s perception of ideal masculine attire.
Edwardian men’s fashion was characterized by practicality and evolving silhouettes, moving away from the tightly fitted styles of the late Victorian era towards more relaxed and comfortable garments. Mass production became prevalent, making fashion more accessible, although bespoke tailoring remained the preference for the wealthy.
Coats during the Edwardian period saw the sack coat rise in popularity for everyday wear. While the frock coat, often slimmed down and double-breasted in the “Prince Albert” style, remained a conservative choice, it was increasingly perceived as old-fashioned. For formal daytime occasions, the morning coat (cutaway) became the preferred option.
Regardless of the specific style, coats were typically crafted in dark colors. A black three-piece suit, then becoming known as a “lounge suit,” was a sartorial staple for men. However, the rise of spectator sports and leisure activities introduced more relaxed and varied styles. Summer wardrobes included lounge suits in lighter flannel or linen, or striped blazers paired with white trousers, often complemented by a straw boater hat. While individual garments didn’t drastically change immediately after the lounge suit became standard, silhouettes gradually evolved. The tightly fitted, high-buttoned coats of the turn of the century gave way to boxier, looser fits by 1910, featuring lower necklines and wider lapels. This evolution reflected a broader trend towards comfort and ease in men’s clothing.
Evening wear remained steeped in tradition, with the classic black tailcoat serving as the epitome of elegance. It was worn open, paired with matching trousers, a stiffly starched white shirt with a tall collar, a small bow-tie, and a low-cut U-shaped vest in black or white, coordinating with the tie. Tailcoats of this era could feature either shawl or notched collars. Completing this formal ensemble was a long, elegant overcoat, such as an Inverness cloak or Chesterfield, and a black silk top hat. For younger, more fashion-forward men, the tail-less tuxedo coat, which had emerged in the late Victorian era, continued to gain favor. Also available with shawl or notched collars, it was worn with the same shirt, vest, and tie combinations as the tailcoat, often paired with the fashionable Homburg hat.
Overcoats were essential for Edwardian gentlemen, providing both warmth and a touch of sophistication when worn over a lounge suit. A variety of styles were available, including the ever-popular Chesterfield, a knee-length, single-breasted coat with a fly front. The wide-lapelled, double-breasted “surtout” was another fashionable choice. The Covert topcoat, dating back to the 1890s and originally designed for hunting and riding, also remained popular. This single-breasted coat, featuring a fly front and cut slightly longer than the sack coat, was made from “covert” cloth in tan shades.
A uniquely Edwardian garment was the car coat. Born from the necessity for robust, warm outerwear to protect the wearer from weather, dust, and mud while traveling in open-top automobiles, car coats were a practical yet stylish innovation. In warmer months, dusters were still commonly used for clothing protection. Car coats were typically worn with gloves, goggles, and caps, completing the motoring ensemble.
Vests remained a crucial component of a man’s attire in the early 20th century. Vest styles mirrored coat trends, initially featuring high necklines and slim-cut lapels at the turn of the century, later evolving to lower necklines and wider lapels. Primarily part of the three-piece suit for daytime wear, vests offered one of the few opportunities for gentlemen to introduce color into their wardrobes. A wide array of styles were available, including single or double-breasted, with shawl, notched, or no collars. All styles featured hems sloping to a point at the front waist, a design element that became more pronounced in the 1910s. Evening attire demanded specific vest designs, cut in U or V shapes to showcase the starched white shirt front or dickey. These evening vests could be single or double-breasted, most often featuring silk shawl collars and were available in black or white, depending on the formality of the occasion.
Shirts in the Edwardian era, continuing the late Victorian trend, typically featured detachable collars and cuffs. This practical design allowed for shirt customization and extended wear between launderings. The fashion for extremely tall stand collars persisted, alongside high stand wingtip and banker collars, all remaining quite tall until the 1920s. While soft-fronted shirts were introduced during this period, starched shirt fronts remained the standard for all suit types until the 1920s when softer styles gained wider acceptance. Detachable collars, cuffs, and shirt fronts were vital for maintaining a neat appearance, particularly given the less frequent laundry practices of the time. However, the invention of the electric washing machine in 1907 began to change this, paving the way for shirts that more closely resembled modern men’s shirts. Many shirts also featured stud closures on the front, offering another avenue for men to express their personal style through decorative studs.
White was the predominant shirt color, especially essential for evening and formal wear. However, polka dots, double stripes, and single stripes were also popular choices, although often only the collar and cuffs were visible under the vest and coat.
Trousers in the early 20th century maintained a narrow cut from the previous era but generally became shorter, sometimes reaching ankle length. Turn-ups or cuffs became a fashionable detail, particularly for younger men. A sharp central crease, now achievable thanks to the electric trouser press, was a hallmark of style. After 1910, trouser cuts began to loosen, aligning with the overall trend toward boxier silhouettes.
While coordinating three-piece suits in plain black, brown, grey, stripes, checks, or tweeds were common for business and casual social settings, formal daywear, such as a black or grey morning coat, could be paired with grey-and-black striped trousers. Most trousers of this period continued to feature button flies and suspender buttons. Knickers, buttoned or elasticized below the knee, were popular for sporting activities, often worn with a Norfolk jacket. The 1920s saw the rise of “plus-fours,” a looser, baggier knicker style that bloused over socks or boots. Inspired by the loose riding pants worn by British officers during World War I and popularized by the Prince of Wales, plus-fours were created by adding four inches of fabric to the standard knicker length and became a catalog staple through the 1920s and 1930s.
Hats were indispensable accessories for Edwardian gentlemen, with retailers offering diverse styles for every occasion. While tall black top hats remained obligatory for evening events, they were becoming less favored for daytime wear. Derbies, Homburgs (stiff felt hats with a central crease), and straw boaters dominated daytime headwear, alongside wool caps and wheel hats for sports, leisure activities, and informal daywear. Working men could be seen wearing all these styles, in addition to the newsboy cap. With the increasing popularity of automobiles, caps, gloves, and goggles became essential for driving comfort.
Neckwear in the Edwardian era included bow ties, ascots, and four-in-hand ties. The Joinville scarf, a wide, long piece of fabric often adorned with lace or fringe, knotted at the neck, was a particularly fashionable tie option, sometimes even styled with a finger ring under the knot for added flair. While hand-knotted ties were worn, ready-made bow ties, ascots, and four-in-hands were widely available for convenience and a consistently neat appearance. Tie clips and frames were commonly used to secure ties in place on the era’s tall collars.
In a period of generally conservative and somber menswear colors, ties offered a significant opportunity for self-expression. They could be brightly colored and patterned, providing a rare “pop” of color in a gentleman’s otherwise restrained wardrobe.
Edwardian sportswear reflected the growing enthusiasm for various sports and leisure pursuits. Garments developed for these activities, such as cardigans for tennis, cricket, and baseball; woolen sweaters for motoring; and Norfolk jackets and knickers for golf, hunting, and country leisure, increasingly became acceptable for casual daywear as the 20th century progressed. This blurring of lines between sportswear and everyday attire marked a significant shift in Edwardian men’s fashion, paving the way for more casual styles in the decades to come.
