The landscape of Indian fashion weeks has undergone significant evolution, reflecting the dynamic nature of the industry itself. For years, established designers and industry stakeholders have navigated the complexities of showcasing their collections and attracting the right buyers. As Tina Tahiliani Parikh, managing director of Ensemble, India’s pioneering multi-designer luxury boutique, noted, the initial structure faced challenges as prominent designers began opting for independent shows, impacting the collective draw of established fashion week platforms.
This shift was partly attributed to the evolving needs of designers and the initial struggle of events to consistently attract new buyers after their inception. Compounding these issues was a period of discord between key organizing bodies. However, 2021 marked a turning point, as the major players recognized the strength in unity and decided to merge fashion week initiatives into a biannual event. This strategic reunion aimed to consolidate efforts and present a more cohesive and impactful platform for Indian fashion on both national and international stages.
Sunil Sethi, president of the FDCI, emphasized the collaborative vision driving this change, stating, “The vision behind the partnership is that we stand stronger together. Today, we are ready to provide a collective focus towards the growth of the Indian fashion industry globally.” This renewed synergy is intended to recapture the unifying spirit of earlier fashion weeks, where the entire industry converged, attracting a robust lineup of designers and significant buyer interest.
With the participation of buyers from prestigious international stores such as Selfridges, Galeries Lafayette, and Rinascente, optimism is high that Delhi Fashion Week will serve as a catalyst for the emergence of numerous global brands from India. Designer Goyal succinctly captures the event’s significance for the ready-to-wear sector in India, highlighting its importance for labels seeking wider recognition and market access.
Delhi Fashion Week consistently shines a spotlight on emerging talent through initiatives like the Gen Next show. This platform has been instrumental in discovering and nurturing promising designers who are set to shape the future of Indian fashion. Ensemble’s Parikh acknowledges the crucial role of Gen Next in identifying “really exciting names,” with Rahul Mishra, a pioneering Indian designer who has showcased at Paris Haute Couture Week and collaborated with Tod’s, being a notable alumnus of this platform.
Each season, Delhi Fashion Week introduces a fresh cohort of debutant designers, each bringing unique perspectives and innovative approaches to Indian textiles and traditions. Recent editions have featured talents like Padma Saldon of 2112 Saldon, Saurabh Maurya of Margn, Ananya Arora of Ananya The Label, and Sakshi Vijay Punyani of VJ. These designers are deeply rooted in India’s rich textile heritage but are simultaneously pushing boundaries with contemporary designs. Padma Saldon, a NIFT graduate from Ladakh, exemplifies this blend, incorporating handwoven sheep wool techniques from her region with modern patchwork, demonstrating a commitment to preserving Ladakh’s artisanal legacy while appealing to contemporary aesthetics. Delhi Fashion Week, therefore, remains a vital event, not just for showcasing established names, but more importantly, for fostering the next generation of Indian fashion innovators and propelling Indian fashion onto the global stage.