The relationship between the fashion industry and Black culture is intricate and historically fraught. It’s crucial to acknowledge that the fashion industry’s foundations are intertwined with the exploitation of Black and Brown bodies, stemming from systemic racism rooted in colonialism. Too often, fashion houses, brands, and celebrities readily adopt, dilute, and profit from Black culture without genuine respect for its origins, commitment to diversity, or support for their People of Color (POC) employees.
Recent incidents, such as those involving Stephen Gan and Comme des Garcons, highlight the ongoing cultural insensitivity and racism within the industry. These instances underscore the urgent need to recognize and rectify the inequities in the acceptance of Black style and culture. It’s essential to continually support POCs who have been marginalized, misrepresented, or stereotyped by the fashion world. This article celebrates prominent fashion trends that owe their existence and popularity to the Black community, providing crucial context to their origins and significance.
NAILS
The history of nail adornment stretches back to 3000 BC, with Egyptian women using materials like ivory, gold, and bone for nail extensions. By the 14th Century, royals in China and Egypt, including Cleopatra and Queen Nefertiti, painted their nails red to signify status. While acrylic nails emerged in the US in the 1950s and gained traction with Hollywood stars, it was Donyale Luna, the first Black woman on the cover of Vogue, who notably sported them on Twen Magazine in 1966. Acrylic nails then entered salons in the 1970s, becoming a signature of Black disco icons like Diana Ross and Donna Summer, known for their vibrant, square-tipped designs.
During the 1980s, Florence Griffith Joyner (Flo Jo), the record-breaking Black American track and field athlete, became famous for both her athletic prowess and her flamboyant, long acrylic nails. Throughout her career, and on the cover of Sports Illustrated in 1988, the year she set world records in the 100m and 200m, Flo Jo showcased her iconic nail designs. Vibrant, long acrylics were also favored by La Toya Jackson and Coko of the R&B group SWV.
The 1990s saw ornate acrylic nails explode in popularity, fueled by the rise of hip-hop and R&B culture. Black artists like Missy Elliott and Lil’ Kim, with her famous ‘money manicure’ by Black nail artist Bernadette Thompson, championed this look. Lil’ Kim’s dollar bill-inspired nail set is now permanently displayed at The Museum of Modern Art, marking the first nail set to achieve this recognition. This 90s popularization solidified ‘nail art’ as a mainstream concept and paved the way for its enduring trend status.
Today, acrylics and nail art are considered a true art form, seen everywhere from runways to magazines and salons. While not exclusively a Black invention, Black women have been pivotal in driving this cultural phenomenon. However, despite their cultural significance within the Black community, acrylic nails on Black women are still often unfairly labeled as ‘tacky,’ ‘cheap,’ or ‘unprofessional.’ These negative connotations, rooted in classism and misogyny, contribute to harmful stereotypes and systemic oppression. It’s crucial for non-POC individuals to be mindful when wearing acrylic nails and to acknowledge and respect the erasure that occurs when Black women’s history is removed from this style narrative.
For non-Black nail technicians, supporting Black-owned businesses for supplies, collaborating with Black talent, and finding ways to amplify Black voices are essential steps towards respectful practice. Sylvie Macmillan’s Instagram offers a valuable resource of Black-owned nail brands. Supporting independent Black-owned nail businesses is a concrete way to engage with and uplift this community.
MONOGRAM PRINT
Monogram print, or logomania, remains a significant trend in contemporary fashion, functioning as a commentary on wealth and status. Emerging from the opulence of the 1980s, it solidified its place in mainstream fashion during the US economic boom of the 1990s as an ironic take on knockoffs, luxury goods, and fashion as a commodity. Initially, high fashion logos denoted affluence, but they evolved into a visual trope as designers began mimicking the very knockoffs they inspired.
While the origins of monogram print are debated, its historical roots can be traced to 1896, when Louis Vuitton’s son, Georges Vuitton, created the interlocking ‘L’ and ‘V’ logo with floral motifs. This Monogram Canvas was patented worldwide for bags, boxes, and luggage. Some argue that logomania truly began in the 1960s with Gucci’s mirrored ‘G’ logo on accessories.
However, many consider Dapper Dan, a Harlem-based streetwear pioneer, the true ‘King of Logomania.’ In the 1980s, Dapper Dan’s boutique illegally screen-printed luxury brand logos like Gucci, Fendi, and Louis Vuitton onto leather, creating innovative designs that surpassed the original brands’ imaginations. He applied these logos to clothing, furniture, and even car interiors. Supported by hip-hop icons like Jay-Z, P Diddy, LL Cool J, and Floyd Mayweather, Dapper Dan’s influence was instrumental in popularizing logomania. His boutique’s closure in 1989 ironically created a market gap that established fashion houses rushed to fill.
TODAY
After a period of minimalism, logomania has experienced a significant resurgence, particularly among major brands. Notably, 2018 saw a collaboration between Gucci and Dapper Dan, featuring a collection inspired by Harlem and Dan’s 80s archive. Today, the monogram trend continues strongly, largely thanks to Dapper Dan and the enduring influence of streetwear culture.
HOOP EARRINGS
Hoop earrings, in their diverse forms, are timeless jewelry pieces with profound symbolic meaning across many non-European cultures. Their origins date back to the Bronze Age and 4th Century Africa, specifically Nubia (present-day Sudan), where they were crafted from bronze, silver, and gold. Hoops were also essential accessories in ancient Egypt, among the Gadaba tribe of India, and for Hmong women in Vietnam.
During the Jazz Age, hoop earrings were famously worn by Josephine Baker, the Black American-French Jazz performer and Civil Rights activist. Baker, an icon of 1920s America, embodied the beauty and vibrancy of Black culture and became known for her signature large hoop earrings. In the 1960s, hoops became a daily accessory for women of color during the Black Power movement, often paired with Afrocentric clothing. They were also embraced by singers and celebrities like Diana Ross and Cher. This era saw many Black women embrace African-inspired styles, including natural hairstyles and hoop earrings, leading to the ‘statement’ hoops of the 1970s, heavily associated with disco and soul music.
The 1980s hip-hop era saw hoops grow larger and thicker, giving rise to ‘door-knocker’ and bamboo styles. In the 1990s, this evolved into large hoops adorned with gemstones, nameplates, or phrases, popularized by artists of color like Missy Elliott, Lil’ Kim, Aaliyah, Lauryn Hill, Eve, and Erykah Badu. These artists significantly contributed to the widespread popularity of hoops, paving the way for the trend’s continuation into the 2000s and beyond.
TODAY
Hoop earrings are undeniably deeply rooted in communities of color and streetwear culture. However, not all who adopt streetwear styles acknowledge this rich cultural history and the people who originated it. While fashion draws inspiration from diverse cultures, appropriation becomes problematic when women of color still face discrimination for wearing hoops. It’s vital for non-POC individuals who wear hoops to do so consciously and use their platforms to engage in meaningful discussions about race and cultural respect. Hoops as a stylistic choice for women of color deserve respect and recognition of their cultural significance within Black Fashion history.
LETTUCE HEM
The lettuce hem, a popular detail in contemporary fashion, especially among high street and fast fashion brands, has a little-known Black origin. This iconic hem was invented by African-American designer Stephen Burrows in the 1970s.
Burrows celebrated and emphasized stitching and colorful threads, rather than concealing them, making the zig-zag stitch his signature early in his career. He developed the trademarked fluted ‘lettuce hem’ using a tight, narrow zig-zag stitch. The hem’s creation was reportedly inspired by editor Diana Vreeland’s request for a garment in ‘lettuce’ green; Burrows translated this into the ruffled ‘lettuce’ effect.
Burrows was a key figure in establishing the ‘Black is beautiful’ philosophy of the 1970s. His designs captured the vibrant energy of the disco era. His electric, colorful knits, studded leather pieces, midi skirts, form-fitting jumpers, rainbow jersey dresses, and suede fringing, showcased by African-American and diverse models, were celebrated by both the press and consumers. The alluring fluidity of Burrows’ garments epitomized the bold, independent 70s woman. Though Stephen Burrows’ name isn’t as widely recognized as it should be, his influence remains visible on today’s runways, and his pioneering talent deserves greater appreciation in the context of black fashion history.
TRAINER CULTURE
Trainer culture (or Sneaker culture in the US) began in 1970s America, as trainers transitioned from sportswear to cultural expression. This trend solidified in the 1980s with the rise of hip-hop, basketball’s growing popularity, and the emergence of Michael Jordan and his ‘Air Jordan’ line in 1985. Predominantly adopted by youth of color, the explosion of signature basketball trainers created a generation of collectors, while hip-hop elevated trainers to status symbols in black fashion.
By the late 1990s, trainer culture had gone global, with dedicated collectors in Britain, Europe, and the US. Special outlets, swap meets, and events emerged as people sought rare vintage, deadstock, or limited edition items. Urban Black youth spearheaded the popularity of trainer culture, which then extended to the skateboarding community. In the early 2000s, the trend gained a significant following in Asia, particularly in India, China, Malaysia, and the Philippines. Popular brands among collectors, still favored today, include Nike, Converse, Air Jordan, Adidas, New Balance, Reebok, Puma, and Vans.
TODAY
Trainer culture is intrinsically linked to streetwear and has revolutionized fashion in recent decades. Innovation and technology have transformed sportswear, making it desirable even for luxury brands. Streetwear’s monumental influence, combined with high-profile collaborations (like Dior and Alexander McQueen) and the cultural impact of figures like Michael Jordan, have turned trainers into coveted cult items. The significant role of hip-hop and Black youth in the rise of trainer culture must be acknowledged, a topic further explored in the 2015 documentary ‘Fresh Dressed.’
