The fashion industry, a significant global economic force valued at USD 1.3 trillion and employing over 300 million people, is facing increasing scrutiny for its environmental and social impact. While the demand for clothing continues to rise, with global fiber production nearly doubling between 2000 and 2022, the lifespan of garments is decreasing, highlighting a growing issue with fast fashion and unsustainable consumption patterns. This rapid growth and consumption are placing immense pressure on the planet’s resources and contributing significantly to environmental degradation.
The environmental consequences of the fashion industry are substantial. It is recognized as the second-largest consumer of water globally and a significant contributor to climate change, responsible for an estimated 2-8% of global carbon emissions. This carbon footprint stems from various stages of the fashion lifecycle, including raw material production, manufacturing, transportation, and waste disposal. The industry’s reliance on resource-intensive processes and fossil fuels exacerbates its contribution to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change.
Furthermore, the linear model of “take-make-dispose” prevalent in the fashion industry results in massive textile waste. A staggering 85% of all textiles end up in landfills each year, representing a significant loss of resources and contributing to environmental pollution. The decomposition of these textiles in landfills releases harmful greenhouse gases, further adding to the industry’s carbon footprint. Beyond landfills, the washing of synthetic clothes releases microplastics, a pervasive pollutant that contaminates oceans and ecosystems, posing threats to marine life and potentially human health.
Fast fashion’s detrimental impact extends beyond the environment, encompassing significant social costs. Textile workers, predominantly women in developing countries, often endure exploitative labor conditions, including low wages and excessive working hours in unsafe environments. These conditions raise serious human rights concerns and highlight ethical issues within the global fashion supply chain. The use of hazardous chemicals in textile production poses health risks to both workers and consumers, adding another layer of concern to the industry’s social responsibility.
The confluence of environmental and social costs necessitates a critical reevaluation of fast fashion and a transition towards more sustainable and ethical practices. This shift requires exploring circular business models, promoting responsible consumption, and implementing innovative solutions across the fashion value chain. The urgency for change is driven by the growing awareness of the industry’s impact and the need for a more sustainable future for fashion.
The Pervasive Problem of Plastic in Textiles
The rise of synthetic textiles, particularly polyester and nylon, following World War II, has fundamentally reshaped the fashion landscape. Synthetic fiber consumption has exploded, increasing from a negligible amount in 1940 to over 60 million tonnes in 2018. Polyester has become the dominant fiber in textiles since the late 1990s, now constituting approximately 64% of global fiber production. Synthetic fibers are now present in an estimated 60% of clothing and 70% of household textiles.
These plastic-based textiles have a considerable environmental and climate impact throughout their lifecycle. The production of synthetic fibers relies heavily on fossil fuels, with about 1% of global crude oil production dedicated to this purpose. This dependence on fossil fuels makes the textile sector a growing contributor to greenhouse gas emissions and the climate crisis.
Furthermore, the fashion industry is a significant source of plastic pollution, particularly microfibre pollution. The textile value chain is responsible for 9% of the annual microfibre pollution entering oceans. These microfibers, shed from synthetic clothing during washing, are a persistent form of plastic pollution that accumulates in marine environments and poses risks to aquatic life.
Addressing plastic pollution from textiles is crucial in tackling the broader plastic crisis. International efforts are underway, including negotiations for a legally binding international agreement on plastic pollution, highlighting the global commitment to mitigate this environmental challenge. The fashion industry’s role in plastic pollution underscores the need for sustainable alternatives and circular solutions within the sector.
International Cooperation for a Sustainable Fashion Future
Given the globalized nature of fashion value chains and the industry’s significant influence on achieving the UN Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), international cooperation is paramount to fostering sustainable fashion practices. Collaborative efforts across borders are essential to address the complex environmental and social challenges associated with the industry.
The UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, launched at the fourth UN Environment Assembly (UNEA-4), exemplifies this international collaboration. The Alliance unites UN agencies to combat destructive fashion practices by promoting sustainable solutions and policy changes. Initiatives like the Forests for Fashion Initiative, led by UNECE and FAO, further demonstrate international efforts to encourage sustainable materials and practices within the fashion industry.
The Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action
The Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, launched at COP24 in 2021, provides a roadmap for the textile, clothing, and fashion industries to achieve net-zero emissions by 2050. This charter signifies a commitment from industry stakeholders to actively address climate change and reduce their environmental footprint.
Signatories and supporting organizations collaborate within working groups to share best practices, strengthen existing sustainability efforts, and identify solutions to achieve climate targets. This collaborative framework facilitates knowledge sharing and resource mobilization, accelerating the fashion industry’s transition towards a low-carbon future.
World Cotton Day and Sustainable Cotton Production
Cotton, a widely used natural fiber, plays a crucial role in the livelihoods of millions globally. Recognizing cotton’s economic and social importance, the UN General Assembly proclaimed World Cotton Day on 7 October. This day highlights the significance of cotton in economic development, international trade, and poverty reduction.
However, conventional cotton production can have adverse environmental impacts due to pesticide use, high water consumption, and habitat conversion. These practices can lead to soil degradation, water contamination, and biodiversity loss. Promoting sustainable cotton production models is therefore essential for aligning the cotton sector with the SDGs and minimizing its environmental footprint.
2024 Celebration | Cotton for Good
The theme for the fourth official UN World Cotton Day, “Cotton for Good,” emphasizes the sector’s positive contributions to economic development, inclusive growth, and poverty alleviation. The 2024 celebration in Cotonou, Benin, marks the first time World Cotton Day will be hosted in Africa, highlighting the continent’s significant role in cotton production and trade.
The focus on “Cotton for Good” aims to raise awareness of sustainable practices within the cotton industry and promote responsible production and consumption patterns. International organizations and Geneva-based actors are actively involved in promoting sustainability in the cotton sector, recognizing its potential for both economic and environmental benefits.
Geneva’s Role in Sustainable Fashion
Geneva, as a hub for international organizations, plays a significant role in promoting sustainable fashion globally. Various organizations based in Geneva are actively engaged in initiatives ranging from setting standards and promoting ethical practices to fostering innovation and supporting developing countries.
Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the world’s largest cotton sustainability program, works to improve global cotton production for farmers, the environment, and the future of the sector. BCI’s work focuses on promoting more sustainable farming practices that reduce water use, pesticide use, and improve working conditions.
Basel, Rotterdam and Stockholm Convention (BRS)
The Basel Convention, through a GEF project, aims to reduce the use and release of harmful chemicals, including POPs, in the textile sector. This initiative addresses the chemical footprint of the fashion industry and promotes safer production processes.
Impact Hub Geneva
Impact Hub Geneva supports entrepreneurs and businesses in accelerating the achievement of the SDGs, including promoting sustainable fashion. Their Circular Safaris on Fashion and Textile initiative raises awareness and showcases sustainable solutions within Geneva’s fashion ecosystem.
International Labour Organization (ILO)
The ILO promotes decent work in the textile, clothing, leather, and footwear sector through various means, including social dialogue, international labor standards, and capacity building. ILO’s work focuses on improving working conditions and labor rights within the fashion industry.
ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative
The ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI) connects marginalized artisans, primarily women from developing countries, with international fashion houses, fostering ethical and sustainable supply chains. EFI also hosts the Secretariat of the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, further solidifying Geneva’s role in international cooperation.
United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (UNECE)
UNECE promotes transparency and traceability in the textile and leather sector to address human rights violations and environmental impacts. The Sustainability Pledge, a UN-brokered toolbox developed by UNECE, encourages companies to commit to transparency and traceability in their value chains. UNECE also convenes the Forests4Fashion initiative, promoting sustainable forest-based materials in the fashion industry.
United Nations Trade and Development (UNCTAD)
UNCTAD engages in research and provides support to developing countries on circular economy and sustainable trade in the textile industry. UNCTAD’s work contributes to building capacity and promoting sustainable trade practices in the fashion sector.
United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP)
UNEP takes a value-chain approach to promote sustainable and circular textiles, involving stakeholders across all stages of the fashion lifecycle. UNEP’s Global Stocktaking and the One Planet Network platform provide updates and resources on sustainable textiles.
World Business Council on Sustainable Development (WBCSD)
The WBCSD supports business initiatives for circular economy and sustainable consumption and production in the fashion industry. The CTI Fashion Initiative, led by WBCSD, aims to establish harmonized standards and metrics for circularity within the sector.
World Intellectual Property Organization (WIPO)
WIPO facilitates dialogue between Indigenous Peoples and fashion companies to ensure fair and equitable interaction regarding traditional cultural expressions (TCEs). WIPO’s work addresses intellectual property rights and promotes ethical collaborations with Indigenous communities.
World Trade Organization (WTO)
The WTO addresses trade aspects of textiles and cotton, including multilateral negotiations on subsidies and trade barriers. WTO’s work also encompasses development assistance to cotton-producing countries, recognizing the link between trade and development in the cotton sector.
Individual Action Towards Sustainable Fashion
While systemic changes are driven by international organizations, governments, and businesses, individual consumers also have a crucial role to play in fostering sustainability in fashion. By making conscious choices in their apparel consumption, individuals can contribute to a more sustainable fashion future.
Choosing to buy less, opting for durable and high-quality garments, supporting brands committed to ethical and sustainable practices, and exploring second-hand and recycled clothing options are all impactful actions individuals can take. Adopting mindful consumption habits and extending the lifespan of clothing are key steps towards reducing the environmental footprint of fashion.
Resources for Further Learning
Numerous resources and events are available to deepen understanding of environmental sustainability in the fashion industry. Organizations like UNEP and the UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion provide valuable information and platforms for engagement. Staying informed and actively seeking knowledge are essential for both industry stakeholders and consumers to drive meaningful change towards a more sustainable fashion future.
