Upcycling Fashion is gaining significant traction as a creative and sustainable approach within the fashion industry. But what exactly is upcycling, and how does it differ from recycling? Why is it becoming so popular, and which designers are leading this movement?
1. Upcycling vs. Recycling: Defining Creative Reuse
Upcycling, at its core, is about creative reuse. It’s a process where designers and individuals transform existing garments or materials into new, higher-value fashion pieces. Think of it as DIY fashion elevated. Unlike recycling, which often involves breaking down materials into basic components before reforming them, upcycling repurposes items in their current form. This distinction is crucial: upcycling avoids the degradation process inherent in recycling, preserving more energy and resources.
Ahluwalia, Ready to Wear, Fall Winter 2023. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight
2. The Rise of Upcycling: From Trend to Movement
Upcycling is more than just a trend; it represents a growing philosophy deeply intertwined with the increasing focus on sustainability within the fashion industry and broader society. While the concept of creatively reusing materials isn’t new – our grandparents often repurposed items out of necessity – its embrace by the fashion world as a sustainable and innovative strategy has surged in recent years.
FashionUnited recognized this shift over five years ago, noting in 2018 that “discarded items have never been as popular as a material for designers as they are today.” Since then, the movement has only intensified. Numerous fashion labels are now launching collections crafted from discarded and leftover fabrics, demonstrating a commitment to reducing waste. Some brands are even dedicated entirely to upcycling, exclusively utilizing pre-existing textiles that would otherwise end up in landfills.
This upcycling wave has reached even the luxury sector. French designer Marine Serre, often hailed as an “eco-futurist,” has been a pioneer in high-end upcycling since her debut in 2018, blending sustainability with avant-garde aesthetics. Euromonitor highlighted the growing prominence of designers specializing in upcycling, mentioning British label Ahluwalia and Marine Serre as examples of those at the forefront.
The term “upcycling movement” accurately captures the momentum behind this trend. It reflects a broader social and environmental consciousness that emphasizes reusing materials and creatively transforming discarded items into valuable products. In fashion, this translates to more designers and companies actively embracing upcycling as a core practice.
However, it’s important to remember that repurposing is not a novel concept. As Orsola de Castro, co-founder of Fashion Revolution and known as ‘The Queen of Upcycling’, points out, our ancestors repurposed out of necessity, not as a fashion statement. De Castro views the current hype around upcycling with a critical eye, questioning the notion of something once commonplace being rebranded as an “elitist” or “trendy niche solution” while mass consumption of cheap clothing remains the dominant paradigm.
3. Why the Spotlight on Upcycling? Addressing Fashion’s Waste Problem
The traditional fashion industry operates on a linear “take, make, waste” model. This system relies on extracting new raw materials to produce garments, which are then consumed and often discarded after a relatively short lifespan. Historically, fashion companies have largely ignored the end-of-life phase of their products and the environmental consequences of textile waste.
In a 2020 New York Times article, fashion critic Vanessa Friedman recounted asking a Gucci executive in 2019 why the brand didn’t take back its clothing for upcycling. The response at the time was that it was “too complicated” and the necessary systems weren’t in place, highlighting the industry’s lack of focus on circularity.
Marine Serre SS24 credit: Launchmetrics Spotlight
However, awareness of the fashion industry’s unsustainable practices is growing rapidly. Overproduction, overconsumption, and textile waste are now widely recognized as critical issues with significant environmental and social repercussions. Upcycling emerges as a positive response to this crisis, offering a more sustainable path forward.
Upcycling directly addresses the environmental impact of fashion by reducing textile waste. By diverting discarded materials from landfills and lessening the demand for new clothing production, upcycling conserves raw materials, energy, and water. It effectively extends the lifespan of existing products and materials, contributing to a more circular economy.
Beyond its environmental benefits, upcycling fosters innovation and uniqueness in fashion. It stands as a counterpoint to mass-produced garments prevalent in fast fashion chains, offering consumers distinct, creatively reimagined pieces.
Ahluwalia, Ready to Wear, Fall Winter 2023. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight
4. Upcycling Pioneers: Designers and Brands Embracing Change
The growing prominence of upcycling is evident in the increasing number of businesses specializing in this approach. In the Netherlands, for example, the number of upcycling companies has surged from at least seven in 2013 to over 140 by 2023, according to the Chamber of Commerce (KVK). Specifically within fashion, the number of upcycling fashion companies in the Netherlands is estimated to be at least 33 and has been steadily increasing since 2015.
Leading Designers in Upcycling Fashion
Numerous talented designers are championing upcycling as a central tenet of their brands. London-based designers such as Ahluwalia, Christopher Raeburn, Conner Ives, and Helen Kirkum are prominent figures in this movement. Dutch designers Ronald van der Kemp and Duran Lantink are also recognized for their innovative upcycled creations.
Paris-based Marine Serre stands out as a leader, placing upcycled and recycled materials at the heart of her design process. Around 50 percent of her collections are made from upcycled products, with the remaining half utilizing innovative sustainable fibers. Serre emphasizes circularity, aiming to “regenerate” existing materials to reduce waste and promote resource transparency.
In the UK, Christopher Raeburn is renowned for his signature approach of reworking de-commissioned military surplus fabrics into menswear, womenswear, and accessories. His brand ethos is built on the “3 R’s”: Raemade, Raeduced, and Raecycled.
Emerging designer Conner Ives, based in London, focuses on responsible clothing using deadstock fabrics and vintage garments. His debut London Fashion Week collection in 2022 showcased his signature T-shirt dresses, crafted from vintage pieces and embellished with crochet trims and floral appliqués.
Deadstock fabric, often referred to as residual or leftover fabric, originates from brands or manufacturers who have over-ordered, produced incorrect colors or faulty fabrics, or faced canceled orders. This unused fabric is typically discarded, contributing to textile waste. Overstock, while sometimes used synonymously with deadstock, actually refers to unsold finished garments. Both deadstock and overstock can be valuable resources for upcycling.
Dutch fashion boasts prominent upcyclers like Ronald van der Kemp and Duran Lantink. Ronald van der Kemp creates “demi-couture” and haute couture from deadstock materials sourced from luxury fashion houses through his brand RVDK. Duran Lantink, considered a leading fashion talent of the 21st century, gained international recognition, including a prestigious fashion prize and a spot on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar in 2023.
Duran Lantink presented designs of upcycled shirts from the Dutch store chain Hema during Paris Fashion Week, March 2023. Credits: Hema (press release HEMA shirt becomes fashion item by fashion designer Duran Lantink in Paris, March 2023)
Even mainstream brands are exploring upcycling, albeit often on a smaller scale. Dutch brand Scotch & Soda launched an upcycling project in 2020, transforming old collections into new designs. Online retailer Zalando collaborated with Ronald van der Kemp for an upcycled capsule collection in the same year. Retail giant H&M partnered with Hacked By in 2019 to create a women’s collection from repurposed H&M garments.
Archive Image: Hackedby x H&M (2019) Credits: H&M
5. Consumer Popularity and the Future of Upcycling
Market Size and Consumer Sentiment: While a significant 40 percent of consumers globally express willingness to repair or restore clothing instead of replacing it (according to Euromonitor’s 2023 survey), the actual proportion of clothing that is upcycled, repaired, or mended remains small compared to overall clothing production and sales. Despite this, experts believe upcycling is becoming an established, albeit still niche, part of the fashion industry and is here to stay.
Industry experts like Marguerite Le Rolland from Euromonitor International anticipate brands will increasingly embrace upcycling and encourage consumers to return unwanted items for reuse, upcycling, or recycling. This shift is driven by several factors: growing scrutiny of fashion’s waste generation in the context of the climate crisis, potential bans on textile waste exports within the EU, and EU regulations promoting a more circular textile industry.
Marine Serre Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2022 Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Ahluwalia, Ready to Wear, Fall Winter 2023. Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Rvdk Ronald Van Der Kemp Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023 Credits: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Rvdk Ronald Van Der Kemp Haute Couture Fall Winter 2023 Credits: Designer Ronald van der Kemp takes a bow after the presentation of his FW23 couture collection. Image via PR agency Lucien Pages.
