It’s a rare claim in the world of photography to say something hasn’t been captured in New York City. A city saturated with snapshots and countless fashion editorials, yet, while haute couture has graced the serene Dal Lake in Srinagar, the intricate artistry of Kashmiri embroidery had never been the focus of a photoshoot amidst the dynamic streets of New York – until now.
This story began with a dream I held back in 2010 when living in NYC: to encounter Brandon Stanton of Humans Of New York. I envisioned myself, clad in a gorgeously embroidered Pheran, sparking his curiosity. His inevitable question, “What are you wearing?” or the ubiquitous “Where are you from?”, would open the door to share a poetic narrative of belonging – of a soul rooted in Kashmir, expressed through the clothing I wore. This aspiration to showcase traditional Kashmiri embroidery within a contemporary setting, to place the Pheran on the fashion map of New York City, resonated deeply.
Now, embracing my American identity while cherishing my Kashmiri heritage, the idea of photographing Kashmiri garments against the iconic backdrop of NYC felt instinctive, thrilling, and brimming with potential.
The Kashmir Valley, often hailed as a photographer’s paradise, has frequently served as a backdrop, yet often to spotlight fashion and beauty narratives not its own. From decades of Bollywood’s cultural appropriation to the iconic 1956 British Vogue images by Norman Parkinson, Kashmir has been a stage for others. Even when Kashmiris were the subject, the perspective often remained external.
However, recent years have witnessed a powerful shift. Kashmiri youth are seizing control of their narratives, wielding the tools to tell their own stories. This ‘Own Voice’ movement is profoundly empowering. Photographers from the Valley, like The Other Rumii and Kashmir Through My Lens, embody this magic, capturing the essence of Kashmir through Kashmiri eyes.
My aim was to contribute to this ‘Own Voice’ narrative of Kashmiri Fashion and design. To challenge those colonial-era images from 1956 Vogue, replacing patronizing portrayals of Western women in elaborate gowns on shikaras with the Kashmiri woman herself, front and center. An explosion of color and floral motifs, set against the urban landscape of a city she inhabits and claims as her own.
The LA Long Beach photoshoot hinted at this, yet retained a dreamlike, nature-evoking quality. This time, I sought to portray the Real Urban Kashmiri Woman, an ode to my teenage self. Despite youthful desires to conform to London’s high street trends, a deep-seated connection remained to the precious heritage woven into the tilla threads that grazed my face during my grandmother’s affectionate embraces.
All three models here are adorned in Pherans embellished with Tilla Embroidery. From left to right: Suemyra in a Mendhi Green Velvet Pheran with Gold Tilla on Deep Red accents, Mehrunnisa in a Mustard wool Pheran featuring antique gold on maroon tilla work, and Faiqa in a Burgundy Pheran with Silver on Blush Tilla embroidery, showcasing the diversity and richness of Kashmiri fashion.
At Mamanushka, fostering female collaboration is paramount. While photography, storytelling, and styling were within my domain, I envisioned the apparel modeled and designed by women who, like me, embody a tapestry of cultural identities rooted in Kashmir. I wanted to celebrate the confluence of these worlds.
For the exquisite garments, I connected with Nousheen Afzal, a Kashmiri New Yorker and the creative force behind the label ‘Hamzaara’. Hamzaara emerged from a desire to make Kashmiri clothing accessible to both Kashmiris and non-Kashmiris in the USA. Nousheen and her sister, Shazia Gojwari, collaborate with fifteen Kashmiri artisans, meticulously curating materials and designs, carefully selecting colors and embroidery for each shawl and Pheran. Their production is intentionally slow and thoughtful, crafting around six pieces monthly, allowing for variations based on hand or machine embroidery. Nousheen champions both methods.
“I source plain, pure Pashmina shawls from trusted vendors and then commission artisans from remote Kashmiri villages, providing them with livelihoods. I personally visit them to place orders, collaborating on color palettes and thread choices,” she explains.
Nousheen envisioned bringing Kashmiri fashion to her adopted home, New York, leading her to bravely transition from a medical career to entrepreneurship. “Within a year, my work gained recognition, with clients appreciating my sensitivity in merging contemporary colors and trends with traditional designs.” Hamzaara’s reach extends to the UK, Canada, Saudi Arabia, and across the USA.
Nousheen generously welcomed me to her home, offering a treasure trove of designs for this project. For me, it was akin to childhood candy store dreams! Under the ‘Hamzaara New York’ banner, her vision of blending tradition and modernity was palpable – a goal many Kashmiri designers pursue, yet few achieve with such finesse.
This fusion is what we aimed to capture in these images featuring models Sabreen and Mehrunissa. Sabreen is draped in an electric blue pure Pashmina shawl with brick red silk Aaari embroidery on a cream Kaftan. Mehrunissa showcases a striking color-blocked semi-Pashmina shawl paired with a mustard wool Pheran, adorned with antique gold on maroon tilla.
Whether adorned with minimalist border embroidery or lavishly embellished all over, Kashmiri shawls possess a timeless charm. The first image showcases a pure Pashmina shawl in its natural, undyed state, graced with a pink tea-colored Sozni silk border—simplicity and grace personified. I was compelled to style it as a head wrap, tied in a quintessential Kashmiri manner. This silhouette is rarely seen on modern young women, primarily worn by grandmothers in Kashmir, yet its elegance transcends age.
The second and third images offer a detailed view of a Floral Motif Jamawar Shawl, allowing appreciation for the artistry and dedication poured into hand-stitching such masterpieces. In blushing shades of lilac, mint, and orange blossom, the shawl is almost entirely enveloped in embroidery. Layering the shawl with a hat underneath echoes a style I recall from my great-grandmother.
Mehrunnisa, a dear friend, and Faiqa, a friend of a friend from my LA shoot, along with Sabreen and Suemyra, formed our crew of newfound friends. Sabreen Haziq, a Digital Media and Content Specialist by profession, proved to be a comedic force, keeping us in stitches. A natural vlogger, Sabreen also captured the behind-the-scenes fun in a delightful short video.
Thank you, Sabreen!
The experience of turning heads and momentarily disrupting NYC traffic was exhilarating!
Reclaiming the Pheran and traditional Kashmiri embroidery in its diverse forms—elements sometimes dismissed as old-fashioned by some Kashmiris—and showcasing this heritage publicly is a significant statement for me. Pherans are more than mere outerwear; they are deeply intertwined with Kashmiri identity. Worn by both men and women, the Pheran is quintessentially Kashmiri, so much so that it, like its wearer, has faced scrutiny and state policing. The Pheran has become a symbol of resilience, a poignant reminder of a land as vulnerable as it is beautiful.
Globally, Kashmir is often portrayed solely through the lens of conflict. This underscores the urgency to highlight its vibrancy, relevance, and contribution to fashion and culture to the world, particularly in Europe and America.
Indulge in the beauty. As they say in ‘the city’ – everything’s a photograph in New York.
This deep turmeric shawl, adorned with blush paisley embroidery, is simply exquisite!
This Dumbo location, with the Brooklyn Bridge as a backdrop, is a frequent choice for fashion shoots. Shortly after our departure, more ‘fashion people’ claimed the space. I felt a sense of pride in our team being among the first to showcase Kashmiri fashion here, capturing a genuine moment with Sabreen.
Check.
Pose.
Walk away like a Boss.
Talking of Boss…
This shot, featuring a halal food cart, was a perfect realization of my vision—quintessentially New York!
The reading may be staged, but the style is undeniably real!
Kashmiri silk scarves – this classic way of tying them deserves a comeback.
Take a moment to appreciate this hand-embroidered crewel stitch handbag by Kashmir-based brand ha_traders. This ‘gal pals’ image, captured by Mehrunnisa, includes myself in royal blue velvet, stepping in front of the camera at my friends’ insistence, recognizing the relevance of my presence and perspective to this project.
The same Kani shawl, styled here in two distinct ways: as a wrap-around shawl and a turban-style hijab. Picture credit: Sabreen Haziq.
This image perfectly encapsulates the modern-traditional fusion. The same Jamavar shawl from earlier, styled in an ultra-modern chic manner, paired with a traditional silver Kashmiri necklace repurposed as a belt – a seamless blend of the old and the new.
Thank you HAMZAARA for the opportunity to showcase your beautiful designs, and heartfelt gratitude to my gal pals for their unwavering support and invaluable advice throughout this shoot!
