The 1950s marked a significant era in women’s fashion, moving beyond the austerity of the war years into a decade of burgeoning style choices and renewed elegance. While the “New Look” silhouette, popularized by Christian Dior, is often considered the defining style, the reality of 1950s women’s fashion was far more diverse and nuanced. As fashion curator Daniel Milford-Cottam notes, this decade offered stylish options that allowed for individual expression, a departure from previous eras with more singular, dominant trends.
This newfound emphasis on choice was a relatively fresh concept in the 1950s. Designers like Cristobal Balenciaga, Charles James, and Hubert de Givenchy contributed to this variety by introducing different silhouettes and styles. Fashion historian James Laver observed a progressive shift towards less structured and straighter cuts as the decade advanced. The straight-cut suit, championed by Chanel, Dior, and Balenciaga, offered a sophisticated alternative to the cinched-waist New Look. This style, often featuring a jacket that fell naturally at the hips, celebrated a woman’s natural form in a more relaxed way.
In the latter part of the decade, sheath dresses and high-waisted chemise dresses gained prominence. Givenchy’s elegant sheath dresses and Balenciaga’s innovative chemise dresses, introduced around 1957, demonstrated this move towards more streamlined shapes. Balenciaga’s designs, including his signature swing coats and suits, as exemplified by the suit worn by model Suzy Parker, further showcased this evolving silhouette.
While haute couture from designers like Dior, Balenciaga, and James captivated the fashion world, the demand for sportswear continued to grow. American designer Claire McCardell, already well-known from the 1940s, remained influential with her practical and stylish designs. She continued to produce her signature wrap dresses and popularized pedal pushers paired with matching tops, catering to a more casual and active lifestyle.
Despite the overall emphasis on elegance in 1950s fashion, younger women increasingly embraced sportswear and less formal styles. Sundresses and swimsuits became essential wardrobe items for leisure and recreation. The “poodle skirt,” attributed to Juli Lynne Charlot, became an iconic symbol of everyday fashion in the fifties. These simple circle skirts, often made of felt and adorned with various embellishments, were frequently paired with close-fitting twinsets. Although more casual than Parisian haute couture, poodle skirts still echoed the New Look’s defined waist and full skirt silhouette, demonstrating how even informal styles were influenced by the decade’s prevailing fashion aesthetics.
