The 1920s was a decade of dramatic change and innovation in fashion. While the flapper dress is often considered the defining look of the era, it was just one facet of the diverse styles that emerged. The “androgynous” flapper silhouette, characterized by its loose, shapeless fit and knee-length hem, certainly captured the spirit of modernity and liberation that defined the decade for many.
However, this bold, boyish look was not the only expression of 1920s fashion. Jeanne Lanvin, a prominent designer of the time, popularized a style that stood in stark contrast to the flapper. Her “Robe de Style” dresses championed a more traditional, feminine aesthetic. These gowns featured long, full skirts, sometimes even incorporating panniers to enhance the volume, creating a romantic and elegant silhouette.
Lanvin’s designs often embraced soft, pastel colors and were accessorized with elements that further emphasized femininity. A pastel dress designed by Lanvin in 1922, for example, was paired with a straw hat, a departure from the close-fitting cloche hats typically associated with the flapper look. This romantic vision offered an alternative to the straight lines of flapper dresses, appealing to women who preferred a more classic and graceful style.
Even within the broader flapper trend, designers like Lanvin found ways to incorporate feminine details. While maintaining the dropped waist and shorter hemlines characteristic of the era, Lanvin infused her flapper-inspired dresses with delicate embellishments and softer fabrics, offering a more nuanced take on the modern silhouette.
Another significant fashion movement of the 1920s was the rise of sportswear as daywear for women. Sportswear had been a staple in men’s casual wardrobes for some time, but the 1920s marked its widespread adoption by women. This shift is often attributed to the influence of iconic designers like Coco Chanel, but Jane Regny and Jean Patou also played crucial roles in popularizing this trend. The increasing participation of women in sports and outdoor activities fueled the demand for practical and comfortable clothing that was both stylish and functional.
Jean Patou’s designs, in particular, highlighted the influence of tennis on fashion. His yellow skirt and sweater set perfectly exemplify the sporty chic aesthetic that gained immense popularity. These ensembles were not just for the tennis court; they became fashionable daywear, blurring the lines between athletic attire and everyday clothing.
Tennis emerged as the most popular sport among women in the 1920s, making it a major source of inspiration for fashion designers. Tennis star Suzanne Lenglen became a fashion icon of the early twenties, largely due to her groundbreaking style both on and off the court. Jean Patou designed her signature tennis attire, which included short-sleeved, pleated dresses and a distinctive bandeau headband.
Lenglen’s influence extended beyond the tennis court. Her sporty yet elegant personal style inspired women to embrace more relaxed and practical clothing in their daily lives. As fashion trends evolved throughout the late 1920s, sleeveless, knee-length, shift-like tennis dresses, inspired by Lenglen and wider fashion movements, became increasingly fashionable.
The popularity of sportswear elements reached such heights that by 1928, The Tatler magazine observed that “Sports clothes have been developed to such an extent that they may go to lunch at the fashionable restaurants; as a matter of fact they are often worn until the hour of cocktail.” This quote perfectly encapsulates the revolutionary shift in fashion during the 1920s, where sportswear transcended its athletic origins and became an accepted and stylish part of everyday life, even in sophisticated social settings.
