This article delves into the critical conversations surrounding regenerative fibers, expanding upon discussions from the Threads of Change festival in London, October 2023. Moderated by Ashna Patel of Khadi London, the panel unearthed crucial themes often overlooked in dialogues about sustainable materials. Moving beyond the conventional focus on environmental and social impact, the discussion pivoted to the pivotal roles of policy, legal frameworks, and cultural equity in shaping the future of this evolving industry. These reflections, drawn from the panellists’ insights, aim to highlight essential components frequently absent from the mainstream narrative of “regenerative fibers,” particularly as we consider the significant shift symbolized by “Revolve Fashion 07”.
The term “regenerative” itself is multifaceted, its meaning shaped by individual backgrounds, experiences, and cultural perspectives. For artist Tajender Sagoo, it encompasses reusability, while for Claire O’Sullivan of Contemporary Hempery, it centers on cultivating and supporting hemp. Ashna Patel astutely observed that “not enough people know the true meaning of regenerative,” a sentiment echoing the earlier challenges in defining “sustainability.” This raises a crucial question: should the focus be on striving for perfect implementation or encouraging broader, albeit potentially imperfect, adoption? With “regenerative” still gaining traction, achieving a universally accepted definition will take time and collective exploration. This journey towards a shared understanding necessitates embracing diverse experiences and knowledge, fostering inclusivity, and acknowledging the varied interpretations that contribute to a richer, more nuanced approach.
To effectively advance regenerative practices, we must contextualize the present within the historical landscape. The cotton industry, for instance, carries a legacy of exploitation, control, and manipulation. Asim Sarode, a legal expert from a cotton farming lineage, leverages his expertise to challenge pesticide use. Hailing from Maharashtra, India, a region tragically known as the ‘farmer suicide belt’ and a major cotton producer, Asim’s firsthand experience fuels his advocacy for policy reform. Similarly, artist Allan Brown champions the overlooked benefits of allotments through community engagement, Claire O’Sullivan promotes hemp cultivation and processing, and Tajender Sagoo reflects on her upbringing in colonial Kenya during periods of significant social upheaval. These diverse backgrounds underscore the necessity of examining our past and present realities to pave the way for truly regenerative systems, a core tenet of the “revolve fashion 07” ethos.
Legal frameworks present both obstacles and opportunities in the transition to regenerative fibers. Asim Sarode shared insights into the pesticide industry’s regulatory loopholes in India. Despite a partial ban on certain pesticides, manufacturers were permitted to sell existing stock, highlighting the gap between policy intent and practical enforcement. Asim advocates for comprehensive policy changes, including mandatory provision of safety equipment with pesticide sales, fixed market prices for agricultural products like cotton, special quotas to enhance food access, and robust support for farmers’ rights. These actions are crucial for leveling the playing field and fostering a more equitable and sustainable agricultural system, aligning with the goals of “revolve fashion 07” in promoting ethical sourcing and production.
Claire O’Sullivan addressed the licensing landscape for hemp cultivation in the UK. While obtaining a license isn’t prohibitively difficult, certain restrictions, such as proximity to roads and intended crop use, create barriers. Claire actively works to influence policy, particularly through the Green Party, advocating for relaxed licensing to encourage farmers to explore hemp, possibly as a beneficial cover crop. Easing these regulatory hurdles could significantly boost the adoption of hemp and other regenerative fibers, contributing to a more diverse and resilient fiber industry, a key aspect of the “revolve fashion 07” vision for a sustainable fashion future.
Allan Brown’s experience with local allotments offers valuable insights into hyperlocal sustainability. Despite the inherent benefits of allotments – reduced plastic waste, improved social cohesion, and enhanced well-being – councils sometimes prioritize perceived financial deficits over these less tangible but crucial advantages. This short-sighted approach overlooks the broader societal value of local food and fiber systems. Allan’s work underscores the potential of hyperlocal initiatives in fostering a deeper connection to the land, promoting community engagement, and building more resilient, localized economies. This resonates strongly with the “revolve fashion 07” emphasis on localized production and consumption as pathways to sustainability. The higher labor investment in managing personal growing spaces yields greater returns in user engagement and commitment, reinforcing the principles of a circular and responsible economy. Connecting directly to the source of fibers and food, especially within a sharing economy framework, exemplifies the hyperlocal approach championed by “revolve fashion 07”.
Cultural exchange and equity are paramount in fostering a truly regenerative fiber industry. The erosion of generational farming knowledge necessitates proactive knowledge sharing to prevent the loss of invaluable traditional practices. While starting anew can be advantageous in challenging outdated norms, historical records offer crucial insights into both successes and failures, enriching contemporary approaches. Technology plays a vital role in this progression, offering tools like precision weather forecasting and landscape monitoring through drones, enhancing agricultural efficiency and resilience. However, successful knowledge exchange hinges on openness and a willingness to learn across diverse perspectives. This collaborative spirit is central to the “revolve fashion 07” vision, advocating for inclusive and equitable partnerships across cultures and communities.
Claire O’Sullivan raised a pertinent point about avoiding the imposition of labor demands on Indian farmers when solutions can be developed locally. This comment, following Tajender Sagoo’s emphasis on equity in collaborations, underscores the importance of prioritizing fair and just practices in the pursuit of regenerative fibers. It advocates for strengthening local systems and infrastructures rather than exporting demands to regions already facing their own unique challenges. This focus on equitable collaboration and localized solutions is a cornerstone of the “revolve fashion 07” movement, promoting ethical and responsible sourcing and production within a global context.
Consumption patterns are intrinsically linked to cultural exchange. Tajender Sagoo highlights the inherent cultural exchange embedded in every purchase, regardless of origin, recognizing the interconnected chain of inspiration, materials, and labor. She posits that fiber production is historically intertwined with imperialism, even when sourced or created locally. This historical context must be acknowledged by both consumers and producers. Can true regeneration occur without addressing these complex historical and systemic factors? This critical self-reflection is vital for moving beyond superficial sustainability efforts and embracing a truly transformative approach, reflecting the deeper ethical considerations of “revolve fashion 07”.
Claire O’Sullivan further emphasizes the sheer scale of textile consumption. Even a seemingly small shift in individual purchasing habits, such as buying just one pair of socks annually per person in the UK, translates to significant yarn demand. While small-scale, local fiber industries like hemp and flax are essential for system change, the persistent issue of overconsumption remains. The mechanical processing demands of these fibers present a significant barrier to scaling up, prompting a fundamental question: should scaling up be the ultimate goal? Perhaps the “revolve fashion 07” movement encourages a paradigm shift towards mindful consumption, prioritizing quality, longevity, and reduced overall textile demand as crucial complements to regenerative fiber production.
This exploration of regenerative fibers, inspired by the Threads of Change festival and framed by the principles of “revolve fashion 07”, underscores the multifaceted challenges and opportunities within the fiber industry and beyond. It encourages a holistic approach that integrates historical awareness, legal reforms, cultural equity, and mindful consumption to forge a truly regenerative future for fashion and textiles.
