Amit Aggarwal Fashions has consistently challenged the norms of couture, establishing a unique design philosophy that blends futuristic aesthetics with a deep respect for Indian craftsmanship. Even before the FDCI India Couture Week, a bold Instagram statement, “We don’t do normal,” perfectly encapsulated the brand’s ethos. This statement piqued curiosity about what “normal” means to a designer celebrated for his inventive approach to fashion since his early days as the ‘new wave’ in the industry around 2017-18. A visit to Aggarwal’s atelier in Noida offered a glimpse into the mind behind this distinctive vision, just before the unveiling of his Couture’24 collection, Antevorta, named after the Roman goddess of the future.
Aggarwal’s design vocabulary is instantly recognizable. His work explores form, shape, and structure, often echoing the complexities of science and the interconnectedness of life itself. This approach is inherently unconventional. His pioneering use of recycled materials, such as polymer sheets and rubber, hasn’t limited his creativity; instead, it has fueled a constant reimagining of classic Indian silhouettes. “For me, ‘normal’ has always been a relative concept. At Amit Aggarwal Fashions, we’ve always strived to push boundaries,” Aggarwal explained. He recounted starting his label without financial backing after leaving his creative director role, driven by necessity and a philosophy of repurposing. “I sought out discarded materials to build a design language, driven by affordability and a deeper question: why should something end? Why can’t it have eternal life by changing purpose?” This focus on form and function, combined with using alternative materials, initially garnered press attention. However, it was his debut at Couture Week in 2017-18 that truly shifted perceptions. Creating couture from unexpected materials was revolutionary. Now, Amit Aggarwal Fashions is synonymous with cutting-edge occasion and wedding wear. The “we don’t do normal” tagline, he clarified with a laugh, is a playful yet accurate reflection of the brand’s direction for the new collection and beyond.
While Amit Aggarwal Fashions champions design innovation, inclusivity remains a core value. Representation is personally significant, and seeing plus-size model Sobia Ameen in an Amit Aggarwal creation highlighted this commitment. Ameen wore a gown featuring the brand’s signature metallic micro pleats, designed for fluidity and movement, making a powerful statement. Aggarwal articulated his design philosophy as balancing heart and mind: “I make the heart beat to the beat of the mind, and vice versa. Finding equilibrium between the two is crucial for creating the right design for the right person. While technical perfection in fit and construction is expected, the emotional connection to a garment is paramount. People fall in love with how a garment makes them feel; the technical aspects are secondary.” He believes that everything, like science, requires balance, and this philosophy infuses his designs with depth—emphasizing interconnectedness and interdependence.
Questioned about his creative process at Amit Aggarwal Fashions, the designer described it as fluid and evolving over his 23-year career. “If you asked me to define a process, there isn’t one set method. It can be challenging for my team, but they also appreciate the organic journey where the outcome isn’t predetermined. This element of surprise is what makes it exciting.” Sometimes, the process begins with material exploration, focusing on its potential and emotional resonance. “It has to evoke feeling beyond just its physical properties.” Textile creation is often the first step, followed by form exploration directly on the body. Mathematical principles also play a role, with collections sometimes built on geometric calculations using triangles, circles, and squares to create architectural forms. Aggarwal emphasized the collaborative nature of his atelier: “My team is adaptable and contributes significantly to the creative flow. When I pause, they provide the impetus to continue. It’s truly a collaborative effort.”
With a strong foundation in design, Aggarwal views craft through an innovative lens at Amit Aggarwal Fashions. For him, the creative journey truly begins after the textile is created. “We develop many textiles in-house with our weavers. We also collaborate with artisans and seek out vintage, indigenous textiles that have reached the end of their original lifecycle.” He cited an example of working with the Rabari community, known for their nomadic lifestyle and collection of textiles. “We sourced exquisite vintage Banarasis from a couple who collect these, even though they are often no longer usable in their original form. We restructured them to create new forms for the couture collection, giving them a new life. This reinforces the concept of time and eternity, adding depth to our designs.”
Amit Aggarwal’s Couture’24 collection, Antevorta, reflects Einstein’s Theory of Relativity, exploring ‘time’ through five perspectives: Nowness, Linearity, Eternity, Conjurer, and Balance. Each perspective represents a different facet of time and aligns with the brand’s core values. The collection features garments that shimmer with crystal details, embodying fluidity and movement, alongside pieces that repurpose pre-loved Banarasi saris using signature cording techniques. Mythology and science merge in corded textiles embellished with bugle beads and lamina scale embroidery. Multi-layered designs create visual illusions of infinite patterns, capturing the delicate balance of time itself.
Expanding on sustainability and cultural responsibility at Amit Aggarwal Fashions, Aggarwal emphasized ethical labor practices: “Fair pay is non-negotiable, but our greater responsibility is empowering the minds of our artisans and team. Empowerment gives them agency over their lives and aspirations. When you empower their minds, financial stability naturally follows, enabling them to dream bigger for themselves and their families. Without this empowerment, efforts remain superficial.”
Aggarwal critiqued superficial collaborations in fashion, noting that many fail to genuinely foster creativity, becoming mere revenue streams. “I struggle to recall truly impactful collaborations in Indian fashion, particularly those centered around craft. Many partnerships are surface-level. Consider Iris Van Herpen’s collaboration with aeronautics engineers—that’s a deep, meaningful, and ultimately more sustainable collaboration, pushing the boundaries of fashion through interdisciplinary learning.”
Looking ahead for Amit Aggarwal Fashions, expansion is on the horizon. “Personally, a bit of rest is needed,” he chuckled, “but professionally, we are expanding retail with two new stores planned. With the Antevorta collection, I’m also focused on refining our brand narrative, extending beyond fashion to consider the lifecycle of clothing. What happens to garments after they’re worn? Can they serve a greater purpose? Clothes absorb our lives, and I believe they can impart much more than just physical covering.” Future ventures also include exploring wedding décor, broadening the brand’s visual and creative scope.
