Creating historical costumes can be a delightful way to connect with Antique Fashion and explore garment construction techniques of bygone eras. Even for those less comfortable with sewing, projects like crafting an 18th-century stomacher can be surprisingly approachable and rewarding. This project demonstrates how to create a beautiful stomacher, a key element of 18th-century womenswear, using readily available materials and a touch of ingenuity.
The inspiration for this stomacher comes directly from authentic examples of antique fashion found in renowned museum collections. Institutions like the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Victoria and Albert Museum house exquisite stomachers that showcase the vibrant colors and intricate designs popular in the 18th century. The bold use of color, particularly the striking yellow binding seen on some historical pieces, served as a key stylistic influence for this project. The 18th century was indeed an era that embraced exuberant color in fashion.
Embroidered stomachers held a prominent place in antique fashion, particularly in the early decades of the 18th century. While intricate embroidery might seem daunting, a resourceful approach can yield stunning results without requiring advanced embroidery skills. The secret to this project lies in repurposing a vintage crewel embroidered pillowcase, a readily available textile that embodies the Georgian-inspired motifs characteristic of antique fashion.
Crewelwork pillows, popular in the 1970s, offer a cost-effective and accessible source of pre-embroidered fabric perfect for historical costume projects. These vintage textiles capture the essence of antique embroidery techniques. While dedicated crewel fabric samples are available, they often come with a higher price tag due to their designer and hand-embroidered nature. In this instance, the chosen pillowcase features wool thread embroidery on a durable cotton duck background, mirroring materials that would have been available and utilized in antique garments.
While authentic 18th-century stomachers were typically crafted from linen or silk, the use of wool and cotton in this recreation remains true to the spirit of antique fashion. Both natural fibers were accessible during the period, making them historically plausible choices. For the binding, a poly-cotton blend bias tape was used for practical reasons, demonstrating that even in historical costuming, resourcefulness and budget-consciousness can play a role.
The pattern for the stomacher was adapted from a modern Simplicity pattern, showcasing how contemporary patterns can be cleverly utilized as a foundation for creating antique fashion replicas. The pattern’s transparency aided in precisely positioning the floral motifs from the crewel embroidery, ensuring a visually appealing design. Following the pattern instructions for boning, a structural element common in antique garments, adds to the authenticity of the piece.
Stomachers in antique fashion could be either boned or unboned. Boning provides structure and support, particularly important in modern recreations as contemporary wearers may not be wearing stays, the undergarments that provided shaping in the 18th century. The use of zip ties as boning material exemplifies a practical and cost-effective approach to achieving the desired structure in antique-inspired garments.
The finishing touches, including hand-stitching the bias tape binding in a vibrant yellow, further enhance the antique aesthetic of the stomacher. This bright yellow binding, inspired by historical examples, adds a cheerful and authentic detail, reflecting the color palettes prevalent in antique fashion. The planned addition of a matching yellow gown or petticoat will complete the ensemble, creating a cohesive and historically inspired outfit.
