The vibrant and intricate traditional clothing worn by Oklahoma Choctaw men and women is a testament to their rich cultural heritage. Made from colorful cotton cloth and adorned with exquisite ribbonwork, these garments are not merely clothing but works of art passed down through generations. While today’s traditional Choctaw dress is instantly recognizable, its evolution is a fascinating journey spanning centuries, incorporating changes in both fashion and materials.
Long before European contact, Choctaw women were skilled artisans, creating clothing that was both practical and aesthetically pleasing. Their primary materials were buckskin (Tvlhko) and handwoven cloth (Nan Tvnna). The labor-intensive process of tanning buckskin required traditional knowledge and meticulous skill, with each hide taking about a week to transform into wearable material.
Choctaw ancestors also possessed the knowledge to produce cloth ranging in texture from coarse to incredibly fine. Natural fibers from buffalo wool (Yvnnvsh Hishi), mulberry bark (Bihi Hakshup), stinging nettle (Hvshtapohla), milkweed (Nuchi), and dog bane were meticulously gathered in the fall. These fibers underwent a transformative process of soaking, pounding, and peeling before being spun into yarn and dyed with natural pigments from plants. This yarn was then expertly woven by hand into fabric.
Historically, Choctaw men’s attire consisted of a buffalo robe (Yvnnvsh Hakshup), a buckskin breechcloth (Apokshiama), buckskin leggings (Iyubiha), and distinctive pucker-toe moccasins made from buckskin (Tvlhko Shulush). They carried a bow (Iti Shibata) and quiver (Oksi Naki Aivlhto) for hunting.
Choctaw women traditionally wore a wrap skirt called a Vlhkuna, fashioned from buckskin or fabric, and also wore buckskin pucker-toe moccasins (Tvlhko Shulush) with long uppers. In colder weather or for special occasions, they adorned themselves with a turkey feather mantle known as a Kasmo. If feathers were unavailable, a long piece of fabric or buckskin was draped over the upper body, wrapped around the left shoulder, and tied under the right arm. During the colder months, women also wore buffalo robes (Yvnnvsh Hakshup) similar to those worn by men. They accessorized with shell bead necklaces (Iklonla Apakfopa) and carried woven pack baskets (Kishi).
The evolution of modern Choctaw dress can be traced back to the 18th century when European trade routes and settlements brought an influx of new materials and styles. Choctaw women began incorporating European fabrics and designs, adapting them to reflect their own unique cultural aesthetic. This fusion of influences gave rise to the distinctive style of dress worn today, primarily for special occasions and dances.
Modern Choctaw regalia for men features cotton shirts with round or open collars, often embellished with applique or ribbonwork in bold colors and contrasting trim. These designs incorporate traditional Choctaw motifs, such as the full or half-diamond. The shirt is typically paired with black pants and shoes, along with a wide-brimmed black felt hat. Accessories include hat bands made of ribbons or beads, baldrics (sashes adorned with beadwork or applique), belts, handkerchiefs, beaded medallions, beaded collars, and colorful silk ribbons pinned at the waist.
The cornerstone of modern traditional dress for Choctaw women is a vibrant cotton dress with a fitted bodice, a long full skirt adorned with ruffles, and a contrasting apron. This style, adapted from 18th-century European designs, showcases applique or ribbonwork featuring traditional Choctaw motifs like the full or half-diamond. While the circle and cross pattern is more prevalent in Mississippi, it can also be found in Oklahoma.
Earlier iterations of the dress consisted of separate cotton skirts and blouses with simple yet elegant ribbonwork, as depicted in paintings from the mid-19th century. Variations of these simpler styles, with shorter sleeves and hemlines in calico print cotton fabric, are still worn today as everyday or work attire. Traditionally, the fabric for these garments is torn by hand rather than cut.
Choctaw women complement their dresses with an array of accessories, including elaborate beaded jewelry, hair combs, beaded belts, basket purses, handkerchiefs, sashes, and colorful silk ribbons pinned to the back of the dress.
The most prevalent designs in Oklahoma Choctaw traditional clothing are the full diamond, the half-diamond, and the Kapucha (stickball) pattern. Each carries symbolic significance deeply rooted in Choctaw culture.
The full diamond pattern is a tribute to nature, inspired by the skin of the eastern diamondback rattlesnake. The Choctaw people revered the rattlesnake for its potent venom and its dominant position in the natural world.
The half-diamond design, also associated with the diamondback rattlesnake, is more commonly linked to the hills and valleys of the Choctaw homelands. The bar at the bottom of the motif often represents a river or path, symbolizing a journey, both literal and metaphorical, through the highs and lows of life.
The “X” and “O” pattern represents the stickball game (Kapucha), with the shapes symbolizing the sticks (Kapucha) and the ball (Towa). This motif underscores the importance of the game in Choctaw cultural identity. The “X” shape also represents crossed sticks, a gesture signifying “May our paths cross again.”
