The Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre (NMACC) in Mumbai proudly presents “India in Fashion: The Impact of Indian Dress and Textiles on the Fashionable Imagination,” a groundbreaking exhibition curated by the esteemed Hamish Bowles. This exhibition explores India’s profound influence on global fashion from the 18th century to the present day, showcasing how Indian textiles, craftsmanship, and aesthetics have captivated designers and shaped the course of fashion history.
From the intricate embroidery of chikankari and mukaish introduced by Mughal emperors to the global dissemination of Indian crafts during the British Raj, India’s impact on fashion has been multifaceted and complex. The exhibition delves into this complex relationship, highlighting how Indian artistry has been both appropriated and celebrated, ultimately contributing to a richer and more diverse fashion landscape.
The exhibition meticulously traces the journey of Indian inspiration through the works of iconic designers. From the opulent creations of Jean Philippe-Worth, who dressed royalty at the turn of the century, to the innovative draping of Madame Grès and the groundbreaking patterns of Cristóbal Balenciaga, the exhibition reveals how these masters drew inspiration from India’s rich cultural heritage.
The exhibition also showcases the pivotal role of the 1851 Great Exhibition in London, which brought Indian craftsmanship to a global audience. This event marked a turning point, sparking widespread fascination with Indian textiles and design. The legacy of this exhibition continues to resonate in contemporary fashion.
The influence of Indian aesthetics on subsequent generations of designers is further explored through the works of luminaries such as Mainbocher, Paul Poiret, Gabrielle Chanel, Christian Dior, Zandra Rhodes, Alexander McQueen, and Dries van Noten. Yves Saint Laurent, particularly captivated by India’s vibrant culture, dedicated entire collections to interpreting its rich visual language.
For the first time, The Metropolitan Museum of Art has lent a significant portion of its collection to this exhibition, representing its largest loan in recent history. These pieces are showcased alongside treasures from private collections and Indian institutions, providing a comprehensive overview of the evolution of Indian dress and its impact on international fashion.
Contemporary Indian designers are also prominently featured, with specially commissioned pieces by renowned figures like Abu Jani, Sandeep Khosla, Anamika Khanna, Anuradha Vakil, and Manish Malhotra. Ritu Kumar opens her archives, revealing a remarkable legacy of design, while Tarun Tahiliani and Sanjay Garg of Raw Mango delve into the timeless elegance of the sari and the delicate beauty of muslin. Rahul Mishra and Sabyasachi Mukherjee represent the forefront of “designed in India” fashion, showcasing a global aesthetic rooted in Indian tradition.
The exhibition design, conceived by the multi-talented Patrick Kinmonth and acclaimed architect Rooshad Shroff, creates immersive spaces inspired by Indian art, architecture, landscapes, and textiles. Each gallery evokes the essence of the works it houses, enhancing the visitor’s experience.
A companion coffee table book, India in Fashion: The Impact of Indian Dress and Textiles on the Fashionable Imagination, published by Rizzoli and edited by Hamish Bowles, further explores the exhibition’s themes. Featuring essays by leading writers, the book provides an in-depth analysis of India’s enduring influence on the global fashion stage.
