The 1980s saw a dramatic shift in the fashion landscape, with Japanese designers like Issey Miyake, Comme des Garçons, and Yohji Yamamoto taking Paris by storm. These designers challenged conventional silhouettes and aesthetics, introducing avant-garde pieces that sparked both admiration and controversy. Miyake’s red plastic bustier from his Fall 1980-81 collection, Jean-Michel Basquiat sporting a tunic-length double-breasted Comme des Garçons Homme Plus jacket in their Spring 1987 show, and Yohji Yamamoto’s dramatic red-tulle bustle coat for Fall-Winter 1986-87 remain iconic examples of this era’s revolutionary designs. These designers aimed to provoke thought rather than emphasize sexuality, a concept that resonated with the fashion world and beyond.
Vogue, in its September 1983 issue, captured the essence of this transformative period, describing the Japanese influence as “dark, intentionally droopy, oversized,” and acknowledging the polarizing reactions these styles elicited. The magazine predicted that these designs would gradually integrate into the mainstream, evolving and eventually becoming a nostalgic memory.
The 1980s also witnessed the rise of a fitness craze, significantly impacting fashion trends. Vogue documented this phenomenon with headlines like “Exercise: How to Start” (1982), “Should Pregnant Women Exercise?” (1988), “How Female Execs Exercise” (1985), and “No Sweat Exercise?” (1988), reflecting the public’s growing interest in health and fitness.
Activewear became increasingly popular, with Lycra bodysuits layered over leggings in vibrant colors, accessorized with leg warmers and sweatbands. Celebrities like Jane Fonda capitalized on this trend, releasing workout videos that became cultural touchstones. Fonda’s 1982 workout video achieved phenomenal success, becoming one of the best-selling VHS tapes of all time.
The decade also saw the emergence and consolidation of influential designers who shaped the fashion landscape. Vivienne Westwood, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Donna Karan, John Galliano, Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, and many more contributed to the diverse and dynamic fashion scene of the 1980s. Their innovative designs and unique perspectives continue to inspire and influence contemporary fashion.
These designers, along with the broader cultural trends of the era, solidified the 1980s as a pivotal decade in fashion history. From bold silhouettes and vibrant colors to the embrace of fitness and athletic wear, 80s fashion continues to be a source of inspiration and nostalgia.
The influence of designers like Christian Lacroix, known for his opulent and theatrical designs, further contributed to the distinctive aesthetic of the decade.
