The 1950s are often remembered for Christian Dior’s “New Look,” a silhouette characterized by a cinched waist, full skirt, and soft shoulders. This iconic style epitomized post-war femininity and glamour, influencing fashion trends worldwide. However, the decade’s fashion history is richer and more diverse than just one look. A multitude of styles emerged, offering women a newfound freedom of choice in their wardrobes.
Fashion curator Daniel Milford-Cottam, in his book Fashion in the 1950s, highlights the emergence of diverse stylish options. He notes that two women could appear equally fashionable while wearing entirely different outfits, showcasing the era’s expanding sartorial landscape. Full skirts, narrow skirts, form-fitting sheaths, and loose sack dresses all coexisted, reflecting a shift away from a single dominant trend. This concept of choice, rather than strict adherence to one style, was a novel aspect of the 1950s.
As the decade progressed, influential designers like Cristóbal Balenciaga, Charles James, and Hubert de Givenchy further diversified fashion choices by introducing innovative silhouettes. James Laver, in Costume and Fashion: A Concise History, observes a movement towards less structured and straighter cuts in clothing as the 1950s unfolded. This shift is exemplified by the straight-cut suit, pioneered by Chanel, Dior, and Balenciaga. In contrast to the New Look’s emphasis on curves, the straight-cut suit, with its jacket hanging at the widest point of the hips, accentuated a woman’s natural form.
Later in the decade, sheath dresses and high-waisted chemise dresses gained popularity. Balenciaga’s introduction of the chemise dress in 1957 marked a significant departure from the full-skirted styles of the early 1950s. These newer silhouettes offered a more streamlined and modern aesthetic.
While haute couture flourished, the sportswear trend continued its strong presence from the previous decade. American designer Claire McCardell, known for her practical and comfortable designs, remained a prominent figure. Her signature wrap dresses and innovative pedal pushers with matching tops provided stylish yet casual alternatives to more formal attire. Young women, in particular, embraced McCardell’s sportswear and less formal styles like sundresses and swimsuits, showcasing a preference for comfort and practicality.
Perhaps the most enduring symbol of casual 1950s fashion is the “poodle skirt.” Created by Juli Lynne Charlot, these circular felt skirts, often adorned with various embellishments (not just poodles), became a teenage fashion staple. Typically paired with tight-knitted twinsets, poodle skirts, while more casual than Parisian haute couture, still echoed the New Look’s silhouette with a defined waist and full skirt. They represented a youthful and playful interpretation of the decade’s prevailing fashion trends.
