Hindi cinema, often referred to as Bollywood, is more than just entertainment; it’s a vibrant tapestry woven with dreams, music, and dazzling fashion. Psychoanalyst Sudhir Kakar aptly describes it as a “collective fantasy,” a shared escape into a world of beauty and extravagance. This escapism is deeply embedded in the Indian film culture, where elaborate costumes and song-and-dance sequences are integral to the storytelling.
For many moviegoers, Bollywood offers a respite from reality. This desire for fantasy is powerfully illustrated by the story of a driver who, upon watching the realistic portrayal of Mumbai’s dance bars in the National Award-winning film Chandini Bar (2001), longed for the “happy songs” and “beautiful clothes” of traditional Bollywood. This anecdote highlights the profound importance of the fantastical element in Indian cinema.
This inherent desire for fantasy extends to the costumes, which often play a pivotal role in shaping the narrative and influencing fashion trends in real life. The book 100 Iconic Bollywood Costumes celebrates this influence, showcasing the most fantastical and influential attire in Indian cinema history. These costumes have empowered women to embrace bold choices and push the boundaries of their personal style.
The legendary Helen, Bollywood’s original item girl, epitomizes the transformative power of costume. Her flamboyant outfits, from the Spanish flamenco dancer in Teesri Manzil (1966) to the glittering two-piece in Sachaai (1969), captivated audiences. Helen understood the art of spectacle, utilizing feathers, fruit-laden headwear, and daring ensembles to command attention.
Her iconic cabaret number in Jewel Thief (1967), featuring a red sequinned leotard with animal motifs and ostrich plumes, cemented her status as a Bollywood fashion icon. While her outfits were often revealing, Helen maintained a sense of modesty by wearing a skin-toned bodysuit underneath. This attention to detail, even under layers of sparkle and feathers, exemplifies the artistry of Bollywood costume design. Her influence can be seen in the fashion choices of contemporary Bollywood stars like Priyanka Chopra Jonas and Kareena Kapoor Khan.
Zeenat Aman, another iconic actress, further solidified the connection between fashion and fantasy in Bollywood. In Satyam Shivam Sundaram (1978), her costumes, designed by the Oscar-winning Bhanu Athaiya, embodied an “apsara-like vision of beauty.” The diaphanous white mini-sari under the waterfall and the shimmering belly-dancer-inspired two-piece became symbols of seduction and continue to inspire fashion trends today. While some of these costumes might be considered objectifying by today’s standards, they were revolutionary at the time, empowering women to embrace their bodies and sensuality.
Rekha, the quintessential drama queen of the 1980s, embraced the decade’s excess with bold fashion statements. In Khoon Bhari Maang (1988), her transformation from a meek widow to a glamorous supermodel showcased the power of clothing to reflect inner strength and reinvention. Her wardrobe, featuring bold shoulders, lamé fabrics, turbans, and oversized sunglasses, inspired women to embrace glamour and incorporate fantasy into their everyday lives.
The influence of Bollywood fashion extends beyond imitation; it empowers women to experiment with new styles and express their individuality. The costumes in Rangeela (1995), designed by Manish Malhotra, had a profound impact on fashion trends. Urmila Matondkar’s character, Mili, a movie extra aspiring to be a leading lady, showcased a modern wardrobe of knotted crop tops, high-waisted shorts, and flowing skirts. The iconic red and white printed ensemble in the song Tanha Tanha Yahan Ke Jeehan sparked countless knock-offs, proving that fantasy can inspire real-world fashion choices. This film catapulted Manish Malhotra to the forefront of Bollywood costume design.
Even commercially unsuccessful films can leave a lasting legacy through their costumes. In Bombay Velvet (2015), Raveena Tandon’s dazzling peacock dress, designed by Swapnil Shinde (now Saisha Shinde), stole the show. The vibrant purple dress with intricate hand-sewn feathers and headgear, combined with Tandon’s captivating cabaret performance, proved that iconic fashion moments can transcend box office success. These enduring images continue to inspire designers and fashion enthusiasts alike.
